79jasper
Chickenhawk
Pretty sure it'll shoot fluid out if you take the cap off. At least I know it will if press the master in.
Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear
- Thread starter warhog
- Start date
madpogue
Full Access Member
Yeah, on the earlier trucks the switch is not on the pushrod. It's way over to the left of the pedal. And when the pedal floors itself like that, the self-adjuster thingy gets all cattywumpus.
So you've confirmed that when you push the pedal, the knob/pin thing on the arm is pushing the pushrod? Is there much play between the pin and the pushrod? Really would be good to get some bushing in there, otherwise you'll expand out that eyelet hole and you'll have a new set of clutch issues.
So you've confirmed that when you push the pedal, the knob/pin thing on the arm is pushing the pushrod? Is there much play between the pin and the pushrod? Really would be good to get some bushing in there, otherwise you'll expand out that eyelet hole and you'll have a new set of clutch issues.
Alright truck starts without the clutch pedal functioning so must have been a fluke thing. But i'm going to spend today browsing for something else. i really need to consider selling the engine and scrapping the truck. Appreciate all the help and tips you all have given me along the way but it may be time for me to move on.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Sad to hear since you've put so much into it.
madpogue
Full Access Member
+1; if this is all it is, someone could buy that truck and get it back on the road for a song. Shoot, I wonder if one of the pre-built pre-bled assemblies made for the '92-up trucks could be adapted to work for the early IDIs.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
It'll work. Just gotta redrill some holes.
I've just never had a vehicle need so much work. I've even owned rusted out yankee trucks that were much more reliable. Maybe I got a lemon, who knows. But now, it's ******* fuel all over everything under the truck. Seriously, I could have bought a frame and built my own truck at this point because everything down to every little detail is needing to be replaced. It doesn't help i've been stuck in the house since friday since all the rental places are booked. This truck was just a bad omen, it's a shame but I probably won't touch one again if I decide to sell.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Honestly I'd be on that shops ass like white on rice! And the Jasper engine company.
madpogue
Full Access Member
I even wonder about that. Last master I put in a PSD, the cylinder rotated several degrees relative to the base flange that mounted to the firewall. I wonder if that could compensate for the location of the holes in the earlier firewall. Not that I'm in any particular hurry to find out....
Hey, this is NO fault of the truck, it is however a condition of depleted maintenance and long term usage.
When buying a used vehicle cost of repairs and refurbishment needs to be taken into account along with skill level of doing said repairs on ones own.
You have a truck that is almost 30 years old...a TRUCK, a DIESEL truck, one that likely worked hard for many miles and owners. It is likely that in all that there is degradation to several systems, fuel, brakes, drive line, steering, electrical etc. Thinking it looks ok and buying it does not ensure IT IS OK.
Don't get down because of neglect from previous owners. Take heart in knowing you have the support of all the guys here, oldies newbies and some in between. Everyone has thoughts and info on how to do things. Some have done alot to these trucks over the years and do REALLY KNOW what they are talking about. Others just learning come in and often surprise us with a new view....the ole...why didn't I think of that (smack forehead) deal.
Keep the truck and know that with each repair you do brings it that much closer to the truck you want it to be!
JM2CW
Al
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I used the master from my 88 in my 94 and it cocked it counter clockwise looking from the front. So I'm sure it'd be easy to fix. I had to knock the studs out of the firewall and drill out the holes to make it fit. It had to be a quick fix but I'll end up using my old master which is still good. At the time I couldn't deal with the time it'd take to bleed it.
Are new master/slave assemblies not available for your year?
Are new master/slave assemblies not available for your year?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Al could you explain the different year master cylinders again, please. Thanks.
I hope this helps you out for your request.
On the LEFT angled studs is the 87 up IIRC........ and on the RIGHT is 86 down
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Hope this clears this up ....
Al
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Al does that cover the obs? Like a powerstroke?
IIRC yes....angled bolts are OBS TOO!
Now this is just my opinion, I feel Ford found the weakness of the vertical alignment of studs and MC hole and subsequently changed to the angular version to disperse the load more on the firewall and to accommodate the CLUTCH LOCK safety switch...cant start without clutch depressed.
