Transmission shop near Yakima? (or Puyallup)
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Not so much for installing the trans cooler. I guess I'll pull off the grill tomorrow and get the old cooler removed, at the very least, and stick the grill back on with only a few screws, so it doesn't look like crap. The crapp plastic tie mounts it came with look pretty floppy and crap for as heavy as that cooler is. Since there are brackets right near by, I need to just do proper mounts. I guess I need to also walk to Ace hardware tomorrow, and get some steel flat bar to make cross brackets with. I saw a video recently where someone used that for a heavy duty trans cooler mount, so that might be a good way to do it on here. A 36" piece of this will be more than enough, and $7 is cheaper than a "proper" mounting kit.
SteelWorks 0.11 in. X 1 in. W X 36 in. L Steel Flat Bar - Ace Hardware
The SteelWorks zinc-plated steel flats are perfect for a number of uses including support braces, safety guards, gate latches, ladder hanger and garage doors. These flatsfeature an electroplated zinc plating that gives the steel a clean, bright look while also protecting it from rust...
Shouldn't be an issue for a day or two extra, what I want to do is get the parts off the ground so it's not so obvious that you can't move it
Yep, I get that, 100% agree.
OK. Especially since I will probably go ahead and have him flush the radiator's trans cooler when I take it over there. I kind of just want this all done now, so I won't have to mess with replumbing cooler lines and all that later on. Then there will be shouldn't be any worries about it getting too cold in winter or too hot in gridlock.
Maybe it's wishful thinking, but I hope I get better slightly MPG with the new trans. From what I have read, the factory torque converters had tons of slippage, even when new. Aftermarket ones are supposedly less slippy, which also means they run cooler.
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
Do not bypass the water-oil trans cooler. Air-oil coolers don't have near the capacity that a water-oil one has. You'll cook the new transmission at the first large hill. You might get away with doing that on a car or lightly loaded truck, but that RV is a lot heavier and harder on the trans then a car/truck, especially with a c6 and an unlockable converter. Add your gearvendors on top of it and the converter will have alot of stalling going on.
A few years back I did a radiator replacement on a mid 90's ford RV. The old cooler started to leak atf into the coolant, so another shop bypassed it with the biggest air-oil unit they could find. I don't think he made it halfway up the hill outside Cincinnati before the fluid geysered out the vent. He brought it to us afterwards, and we repaired the radiator for him. He never had an issue for the few years after that he owned it.
A few years back I did a radiator replacement on a mid 90's ford RV. The old cooler started to leak atf into the coolant, so another shop bypassed it with the biggest air-oil unit they could find. I don't think he made it halfway up the hill outside Cincinnati before the fluid geysered out the vent. He brought it to us afterwards, and we repaired the radiator for him. He never had an issue for the few years after that he owned it.
Yeah, I'll just suck it up and pay to have it flushed by the shop and hooked up. It's flat city driving from here to the trans shop, so it should be ok with just the cooler for the 7 mile trip there. I will have the trans temp gauge hooked up so I can monitor it to be sure. I won't have the trailer hitched up, so that'll lighten the strain a bit. Seems odd the shop would say it's ok to do without it though.
I would manually turn off the GVOD for steep grades. It's slow enough without having it act like a 3.20 rear end.
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Ugh, I despise NAPA so much. They only have overseas call centers even at noon on weekdays. I called on Monday and I could barely understand the guy (might have just been a bad headset he had, though) and he couldn't cancel an order before it shipped, it seems. So it shipped and was delivered. And 99% of Napa stores won't take online returns because they aren't corporate. What's the bloody point of carrying the corp name if you can't even do returns from corp orders? Napa is about 10 years behind the other stores when it comes to dealing with online orders. For YEARS, online orders to placed for local pickup in non-corporate stores were useless. They couldn't look up the order and had no records of it. Their chat support is pretty useless too. They spew pastes from the support section that don't answer your question until you get angry, then they say the store locator doesn't work, despite it working, and their excuse is they weren't told it was working. The absolute worst company to deal with.
Anyway, I got the grill off. Such a dinky cooler.
For those interested in seeing what the ATF looked like, the video below shows what came out of the cooler. The cooler wasn't clogged, or at least not entirely, since it seemed fluid was running from one side to the other when I tilted it.
photos.app.goo.gl
Anyway, I got the grill off. Such a dinky cooler.
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For those interested in seeing what the ATF looked like, the video below shows what came out of the cooler. The cooler wasn't clogged, or at least not entirely, since it seemed fluid was running from one side to the other when I tilted it.
New video by Ben
photos.app.goo.gl
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
It's beautiful!
I wonder what the torque converter is exactly.
The receipt says F53HD, but the closest part I can find is this, and it says it isn't compatible:
Maybe it's incorrectly referencing the Ford F53 chassis used for motorhomes starting somewhere around 1989-1990, but they mean it for the Oshkosk chassis, since that did have C6, while F53 only had E4OD.
It's curious that it's all smooth, no little bumps like basically all C6 torque converters seem to have in photos I find online, except for this one: https://www.monstertransmission.com...l-Torque-Converter-Odin-Original_p_18454.html
The other bits listed:
MRK3600M-S Master Rebuilder Kit (w/o Steels)........ After 4/10/76 .....1976-96
The shift kit: https://transgo.com/product-details/sk-6/
The replacement direct drum: https://cobratransmission.com/c6-direct-drum-106190-1
Intermediate servo piston # 6528CV - 2.050 - Stamped AA - Yellow Dot - Use w/ S Cover
The receipt says F53HD, but the closest part I can find is this, and it says it isn't compatible:
Maybe it's incorrectly referencing the Ford F53 chassis used for motorhomes starting somewhere around 1989-1990, but they mean it for the Oshkosk chassis, since that did have C6, while F53 only had E4OD.
It's curious that it's all smooth, no little bumps like basically all C6 torque converters seem to have in photos I find online, except for this one: https://www.monstertransmission.com...l-Torque-Converter-Odin-Original_p_18454.html
The other bits listed:
MRK3600M-S Master Rebuilder Kit (w/o Steels)........ After 4/10/76 .....1976-96
The shift kit: https://transgo.com/product-details/sk-6/
The replacement direct drum: https://cobratransmission.com/c6-direct-drum-106190-1
Intermediate servo piston # 6528CV - 2.050 - Stamped AA - Yellow Dot - Use w/ S Cover
The box of GV parts showed up today finally, but it's gonna get put away in a cabinet until this fall/winter most likely.
I think I will stop at an RV salvage yard about 100 miles north of here, right off of I-5, and see if they have an old 176" WB E350 driveshaft just so I have one on hand for later, depending on what they want for one.
I think I will stop at an RV salvage yard about 100 miles north of here, right off of I-5, and see if they have an old 176" WB E350 driveshaft just so I have one on hand for later, depending on what they want for one.
Slooooow going due to rain butting in. We got 1/8" flat steel bar and fabricated it into custom brackets for the cooler. That took most of the day, but it's mounted nice and solid. I can access the hoses and clamps through the air holes below the grill, so that makes it handy to replace hoses and watch for leaks. (Sorry, no pic yet)
I got the oil cooler return hose (to the trans) hooked up to the cooler, but that's all. It began to rain again, plus it was getting dark. But that's a big step completed.
I guess I'll forget about the spin on filter for the trans, at least for now, since I can't find a good place to mount it. Need to just get this finished up ASAP. I might see about doing that this fall/winter when I have more time to mess with stuff like that.
I got the oil cooler return hose (to the trans) hooked up to the cooler, but that's all. It began to rain again, plus it was getting dark. But that's a big step completed.
I guess I'll forget about the spin on filter for the trans, at least for now, since I can't find a good place to mount it. Need to just get this finished up ASAP. I might see about doing that this fall/winter when I have more time to mess with stuff like that.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
@Cubey I was reading a thread on a different forum and came upon a post that made me think of you.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/boomer-the-quadravan-4x4-camper.94723/page-8 (Post #119, Page 8)
I hope that is not against forum rules. But he talks about trans temps (high and low) and its very educating, and it sounds like he knows what he is talking about.......
Executive Summary: Directly regarding the C6. Fluid temp leaving the trans (TC) should never go above 300F and Trans temp entering Pan should stay above 150F to properly clean and lubricate. He spec'd mining equipment in siberia. He states that he has seen trans failures due to improper warm-up and then being worked too hard.
So the plot thickens. I am stoked for you!! And things always take longer, that's why I enjoy a shade tree, the birds, and some cold iced tea (unsweetened of course
)
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/boomer-the-quadravan-4x4-camper.94723/page-8 (Post #119, Page 8)
I hope that is not against forum rules. But he talks about trans temps (high and low) and its very educating, and it sounds like he knows what he is talking about.......
Executive Summary: Directly regarding the C6. Fluid temp leaving the trans (TC) should never go above 300F and Trans temp entering Pan should stay above 150F to properly clean and lubricate. He spec'd mining equipment in siberia. He states that he has seen trans failures due to improper warm-up and then being worked too hard.
So the plot thickens. I am stoked for you!! And things always take longer, that's why I enjoy a shade tree, the birds, and some cold iced tea (unsweetened of course
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