Transmission shop near Yakima? (or Puyallup)

[Cubey]

A lot of newer transmissions, especially Allison transmissions use a spin on filter, I definitely would run that over the in line one.

Yeah, but they tend to have a magnet inside of the filter. But, one can be added, like this:

Motion Pro - 11-0083 - Oil Filter Magnet, 15/16in. for sale online | eBay

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That's the same type of thing for Allison filters. I just watched a video the other day of one being service and the filter they took off was missing the magnet, so the shop guy put one in. I'll have to see if the trans shop has one they can sell me to fit the FL400S, since they can't be gotten very fast online. If I have to wait 5-6 months to add a magnet, I guess I can. I figure the spin on filter alone will be a huge improvement over just the internal screen filter of the C6.

I went ahead and took the annual 30 day free Prime trial (so I can get everything a few days faster) and ordered the filter head, plus 10ft of 3/8" oil cooler hose, $8 for 5 ft. It was 48% off on sale. That hose is $2.40/ft at Napa down the street, so that was a good bit cheaper. If I don't use both rolls, I can ship one back for free.

edit: That's the Allison one, a much more robust magnet and a smaller filter than the FL400S:

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[Cubey]

I figured out a magnet solution that costs nothing. I dunno where these strong (rare earth?) magnets came from but they've been stuck on my stove vent hood for years. I use one to lift lids off of canned foods, and the other has just been sitting there.

This is what one looks like on an FL-1995 equiv filter. It sticks very well on it's own, but a piece of Gorilla tape over it would keep it in place for sure. The magnetic force on the inside of the can might be strong enough to catch very fine metal shavings.

Between that and an in-pan magnet, assuming the trans shop adds one like they should, that should be a massive jump in filtering.

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[Jesus Freak]

Well, I march to a different tune on everything. I'm not changing any tranny fluid. So, carry on! But do save your old ATF, and put it in your fuel cell. These idis love the stuff, and it makes the fluid change economical.

 

[Cubey]

Well, I march to a different tune on everything. I'm not changing any tranny fluid. So, carry on! But do save your old ATF, and put it in your fuel cell. These idis love the stuff, and it makes the fluid change economical.

I bought a 2003 Taurus in early 2008 with 150k miles. One of the first things I did was take it to a trans shop and had them drain and replace (no "power flush"). The car has about 175k now (my mom barely drives it, I sold it to her in late 2008..) and it's still going fine. I think she had it changed once since she's owned it.

On the other end of the spectrum, I knew someone who had a 1999 Chevy Silverado that she'd had since new. She never had the transmission serviced, ever. Around 2012, and at a mere 80k miles, her transmission was slipping and dying because she subscribed to the idea of never changing transmission fluid.

It's like saying never change the engine oil because it'll make your piston rings leak if you do.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Yeah, I know stories that go the other direction. I'm still not changing my tranny fluid. I don't change my oil either, just the filter from time to time. My truck uses enough oil that it's always fresh!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My truck uses enough oil that it's always fresh!

Mine is the same way until I can manage to get the rear engine seal to stop leaking. I'm NOT going to install the turbo with the rear seal leaking all over the cross pipe.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Mine is the same way until I can manage to get the rear engine seal to stop leaking. I'm NOT going to install the turbo with the rear seal leaking all over the cross pipe.

That leak would serve as a way "cooling" the extra heat on the cross pipe in some applications.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

NO! That would cause a huge baked oil build up and I will nor do that.

 

[Cubey]

NO! That would cause a huge baked oil build up and I will nor do that.

Sounds like the valley pan on mine from what looks to be a turbo oil leak.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It sure could be.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Yeah, I know. My truck doesn't leak anything, it just drinks oil on both sides of the pistons.

 

[Cubey]

Regarding the VRV (the thing on the IP) I looked this over:

Proper IDI VRV Adjustment and Calibration - IDI Online

VRV Quick Installation Guide: (Quick Instructions are in dark green text) If you want to quickly install a VRV (Vacuum Regulator Valve), read the following paragraphs. The VRV installs on the driver's side of the Injector Pump (IP) on the top of the engine. It rotates with the throttle to...

www.nickpisca.com

Well, with the old trans, that did nothing to change shift points. I swapped out the one from my F250 with a newer rebuilt C6 and nothing changed. Can't remember if I put the original VRV back or not.

The vacuum modulator (VM) on the old RV C6 did adjust shift points, after I got an adjustable one. My complaint about the RV's C6 was "late" shifting in all gears when I got it. That is to say, 2nd gear was around 25mph (if I remember right) and 3rd was around 38. Not slipping, just later as far as speeds than was ideal. That was awful for slow city driving. Maybe that was a symptom of the old trans having problems, but an adjustable VM solved it, seemingly.

If you have an adjustable VM, how do you balance it properly with the VRV?

 

[Cubey]

Huh, I guess Ford way over-produced the transmission coolers for 1980-85 vans, because you can still get them new:

NOS 1985-1990 Ford Econoline Van / Trucks OEM Ford E5UZ-7A095-B Trans Oil Cooler | eBay

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It's about 11x2.75x1.5" as the seller shows with a tape measure.

Comparing that to a similar dimension Hayden HD-cool #776 shown below (it's slightly larger, 12x4.3x1.7) the factory cooler is probably rated around 11k-12k GVW. The GVWR of this RV is 11,000 according to the Ford factory VIN sticker, and 11,700 according to the motorhome plate, so that cooler was meant to be the motorhome weight and nothing more (no towing). That factory cooler could easily have been undersized for towing in the mountains, like I was doing. Of course, that doesn't count any radiator cooling as well.

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Gonna be putting a cooler rated for around 20k so it should be more than enough cooling.

Almost considering the one below though, rated at 29k. RockAuto has it for $46 less than elsewhere, for some reason. I guess they don't sell many so the inventory has been sitting there for a while so they want it cleared out. It's not marked as closeout/30 day warranty, so I dunno. It's just under $100 (including $17 for faster 3 day DHL shipping) instead of $132 with free, slow shipping elsewhere. 29k GVW might be overkill, but the trans wouldn't die from heat (unless it clogs), that's for sure. With it connected to the radiator, I doubt it'll ever be too cold either, since the IDI runs pretty warm (usually ~180F minimum) so it would be getting some heat from that.

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This is the one I was gonna put. It costs 3/4 of the one above and isn't considered as heavy duty:

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I hate to blow another $100 right now for a cooler but.... I'd rather blow the $100 now, rather than blow the ~$2000 transmission rebuild.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

More protection for your major vehicle parts isn't expensive, it's just worth it. I'd say that the factory cooler was made to be just adequate in most "normal" situations. Not what you've been doing. I don't think that you would ever regret the biggest cooler.

 

[Cubey]

More protection for your major vehicle parts isn't expensive, it's just worth it. I'd say that the factory cooler was made to be just adequate in most "normal" situations. Not what you've been doing. I don't think that you would ever regret the biggest cooler.

I agree. I placed the order for the #779 just now. I just double checked that it'll fit in the space and it will, with room to spare.