Transmission shop near Yakima? (or Puyallup)

[The_Josh_Bear]

Just incase you don't know, when you get the front half of your driveshaft shortened, bring both halves in to be balanced. They have to balance as a unit for whatever reason.

What took out the C6? Thought they were supposed to be bullet proof or something.

 

[Cubey]

Just incase you don't know, when you get the front half of your driveshaft shortened, bring both halves in to be balanced. They have to balance as a unit for whatever reason.

What took out the C6? Thought they were supposed to be bullet proof or something.

Ah good to know about the balancing. But I still won't have to worry about buying and storing/hauling both pieces since that's just an emergency thing, in case I ever have to pull the GVOD and put back the front driveshaft. Yeah they might be out of balance but it might be ok long enough to get things corrected.

I don't know exactly. I just know the pump and both drums are trashed, that's all they told me. Still haven't heard back about how much it's going to be, presumably because their parts sources haven't contacted them.

Everyone in the auto service/parts industry seems to be moving very slowly.

Gear Vendors, only within the past hour, finally pinged my credit card for the order. $24 shipping is that they added on, based on the pending transaction. The guy said they'd probably get it out the same day or next, but it was 2 days.

I already got my Napa order (trans mount and a 1330 to 1350 u-joint) and the B&M gauge kit, so at least online orders like that are pretty speedy still.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't know exactly. I just know the pump and both drums are trashed, that's all they told me.

My guess is that the drums went out and then maybe all of the crap from them took out the pump?

 

[Cubey]

My guess is that the drums went out and then maybe all of the crap from them took out the pump?

Well, kind of. More like the clutches went to crap, taking out the drums and pump.

Btw, anyone know what size oil cooler hose size C6 uses? Almost totally forgot about getting an in line magnetic filter, and it comes in two different sizes: 5/16 and 3/8

 

[Jesus Freak]

My guess is that the drums went out and then maybe all of the crap from them took out the pump?

That's probably about right. Even though a motorhome won't have lots of miles, it's a massive huge thing to push through the time space continuum. And it's probably 35yrs old and never gone through, that's usually a huge feat in and of it self. So the clutches slowly wear, and small particles take their toll.
I will say this, as a guy who spent my high school days building C6s and turbo350 automatics everyday, after a couple thousand miles do a fluid and filter change and then never change your tranny fluid again. The death of an automatic transmission is a fluid change. Feel free to argue with me, but as Martin Luther said in the 16th century about leaving the Catholic Church, I'll say it about my "don't change automatic transmission fluid stance"......Here I stand, I can do no other. I'd guess 3/8.

 

[Cubey]

That's probably about right. Even though a motorhome won't have lots of miles, it's a massive huge thing to push through the time space continuum. And it's probably 35yrs old and never gone through, that's usually a huge feat in and of it self. So the clutches slowly wear, and small particles take their toll.
I will say this, as a guy who spent my high school days building C6s and turbo350 automatics everyday, after a couple thousand miles do a fluid and filter change and then never change your tranny fluid again. The death of an automatic transmission is a fluid change. Feel free to argue with me, but as Martin Luther said in the 16th century about leaving the Catholic Church, I'll say it about my "don't change automatic transmission fluid stance"......Here I stand, I can do no other. I'd guess 3/8.

I disagree. It depends on the vehicle. And I doubt changing the fluid in 2020 is what killed it. That probably extended it's life since it had fresher fluid. It has probably been slowly failing since I got it in January 2019.

It's been across lots of mountains in the last 18 months, including the last 1,200 miles and it held up, so far as not completely failing and leaving me stranded. Yeah, it ate itself up, but that's more my doing by driving it for another 1,200 miles up and down mountains, after I noticed it slipping into 3rd.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Yes, changing your fluid didn't kill the tranny . Old age and stress probably did. But changing automatic transmission fluid is unnecessary and, in my opinion, creates a potential for problems more than fixing them.

 

[Nero]

There's no such thing as lifetime atf fluid, even on 'sealed gearboxes' you should still change the fluid/filter every 20k miles. VW learned that one the hard way when their 4th generation A bodies kept blowing up at 120k miles. The friction addatives wear out, and you want to drain out any clutch particles out that have sunk into the pan.
If you change fluid and the trans blows, it was going to blow out anyways.

 

[Big Bart]

.

Yes, changing your fluid didn't kill the tranny . Old age and stress probably did. But changing automatic transmission fluid is unnecessary and, in my opinion, creates a potential for problems more than fixing them.

I am with Nero changing all your fluids is key to a lasting vehicle. You are never one and done. The death of 6.0 PSD‘s was long oil change intervals.

Jesus Freak the biggear issue to me with ATF changes is consistency of ATF. Start with Vavoline, add Chevron, put a quart of O’Rielleys, and then drop the pan and add Penzoil. Now replace 50% that dropped with another brand and consistency. You are changing chemistry and mixing a bunch of different oils and cleaners. So start off with one and keep some cases on hand to stay consistent. Brands change OEM’s or chemistry or drop off the market. Also drain the converter and cooler if changing brands.

Many do warn of “flushing“ via the cooler lines with the vehicle running is likely to cause issues in most transmissions.

Another challenge is C6 started with type F ATF. Hard to find now and likely much different chemically from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s if you do find it. So topping off each year or changing 50% in a tranny pan dump is potential for challenges. They claim C6 clutch replacement material is now updated to run type F or Dex/Merc.

But the C6 is tough and if treated right will last. In 1988 the F250 with the C6 had a slightly higher tow rating than the manual trans.

 

[Cubey]

They claim C6 clutch replacement material is now updated to run type F or Dex/Merc.

Sounds legit, since the GVOD I got, GV says it was built around 1988 based on the serial number, and it can use cheaper/common gear oil because it's clutches are fibre. They switched to semi-metallic clutches around 1994 (if I remember right) so newer ones need a more specific oil. My RV's dipstick says for warranty, you must use Dexron-II, so Ford was very serious about you not using Type F in a C6 in the mid 80s when it was new.

 

[Nero]

What my working theory happened with Cubey's trans was the pressure regulator for the pump either got stuck, or some debris got in it and lodged it into a low pressure point. That would explain the violent shuddering when going into reverse, and the difficulty of getting it into 3rd, but once there it did fine. Sadly all that slipping on the bands is what takes out the drums.
Also doesn't help the filter on the c6 sucked.

 

[Cant Write]

The only time I have heard of not changing trans fluid is if it's been neglected for a long long time, and for fear of dislodging something and ruining the trans. You are better off just saving for a rebuild and waiting, knowing the high mileage neglected trans is on borrowed time.

Otherwise, I still follow the old rule of thinking to keep trans temps under 170F, and as they go above 170F the life of the fluid decreases exponentially with temp rise. I have always been a 30K guy for trans that were not worked. (DD's). I believe the newer fluids and technology of the newer trans are happy running around 195F.

I readily see Type-F available at Wally World under the super tech label. Dex-II, well I assume Dex-IV is backwards compatible..... I have always been a fan of Valvoline Max-Life ATF

 

[Cubey]

The only time I have heard of not changing trans fluid is if it's been neglected for a long long time, and for fear of dislodging something and ruining the trans. You are better off just saving for a rebuild and waiting, knowing the high mileage neglected trans is on borrowed time.

Otherwise, I still follow the old rule of thinking to keep trans temps under 170F, and as they go above 170F the life of the fluid decreases exponentially with temp rise. I have always been a 30K guy for trans that were not worked. (DD's). I believe the newer fluids and technology of the newer trans are happy running around 195F.

I readily see Type-F available at Wally World under the super tech label. Dex-II, well I assume Dex-IV is backwards compatible..... I have always been a fan of Valvoline Max-Life ATF

The Valvoline non-Maxlife:

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[Cubey]

Thoughts on this instead of an in-line filter?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATP18429

It can accept the cheap $4 Motorcraft FL400S filter that V6 Ford Vulcans use. Way bigger filter element, but no magnet.

It doesn't cost much more than an in-line filter, and it's far cheaper to service once a year or so by just replacing the filter with a new one filled with fresh ATF.

 

[Nero]

A lot of newer transmissions, especially Allison transmissions use a spin on filter, I definitely would run that over the in line one.