Towing temps boost pyrometer and gears

[gearedandready]

Using this gear ration calculator it shows that your current effective ration is 4.10, to get to 4.56 you can run 245 75 17's this will give you an effective ratio of exactly 4.56. Contact Typ4 and get an 088 seal kit, that will cure what leaks ail you. Some craigslist takeoffs will be significantly less expensive than new gears. Final drive ration is really the end all, transmission gear + rear end gearing + tire size it all matters. If getting to 4.56 is the goal then smaller tires will do it for you.

Gear Ratio Calculator https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

 

[morgankshaw]

I wish you were closer, I could help you put the gears in


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It's one of those jobs I'd try to tackle but the proper tools are kinda expensive. I don't know maybe I should just bite the bullet and do it myself. But.....
Hard to mess with not having a lift and all the in and out with the gears getting them right.


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[gearedandready]

Also for grins and giggles I checked the stock (note stock) RWHP of a 2015 Cummins 6.7 and its 240-250. A 7.3 properly tuned with a turned up pump, good turbo 093 or 088, 3inch downpipe, 4 inch exhaust, fresh injectors, should be making 190-210 RWHP. There is a dyno run somewhere from a user named 91dirtydiesel hitting 202RWHP with a very similar setup. Yes 30 more HP would be great, the point though is with the setup you have you should be running somewhere close to 7.3 Powerstroke numbers and have no problem pulling your load. Have you done the rest of the maintenance on your truck? If you bought the truck used then get the regular maintenance freshened up.

1. Change front/rear diff fluid
2. Repack front wheel bearings
3. Change gear lube in your ZF5 (also you might check your clutch and make sure you don't have some slippage going on)
4. Change your oil use a good synthetic oil with a high mileage additive, Lucas synthetic stabilizer, Duralube (I know the snickers, it works, 18yrs
experience with it)
5. Tires at proper pressure
The above reduces friction in the driveline, which more efficiently transfers the power you make to the rear wheels.

5. Change fuel filter
6. Check lift pump ($27.00 part can make all the difference in fuel pressure)
7. Pull an injector and see how dirty it is
8. Put a clear vinyl line on the return from the injectors overflow lines to pump to check for air intrusion
9. Run some DieselKleen through it or better yet when you change the fuel filter prime it with Seafoam and clean up your system. Add 2 cans to
your fuel tank as well
The above addresses Fuel delivery issues, if your engine is starting to starve for fuel at higher RPM especially around 2800 where you make your
max power then you lose performance, you need to be able to feed that big engine at higher RPM's to get the most out of it

10. New air filter
11. Check for Turbo system leaks
12. Cold air intake for your Turbo (Racin&Drummin proved the stock intake tube added a couple of horsepower on a dyno run, I think its still on
YouTube)

I am sure there is more, if you can check off these 12 things then you are more on your way to getting all you can from your IDI. All of it is cheaper than a new engine, will improve your trucks reliability, fuel economy, cheaper than debasing a Ford with anything other than a Ford engine.

None of the down and dirty maintenance is as **** as "putting in a new turbo" "swapping gears" "building a high performance IDI" or "swapping in a different engine" But it is the first place to start when wanting to get the most out of our trucks.

 

[morgankshaw]

Also for grins and giggles I checked the stock (note stock) RWHP of a 2015 Cummins 6.7 and its 240-250. A 7.3 properly tuned with a turned up pump, good turbo 093 or 088, 3inch downpipe, 4 inch exhaust, fresh injectors, should be making 190-210 RWHP. There is a dyno run somewhere from a user named 91dirtydiesel hitting 202RWHP with a very similar setup. Yes 30 more HP would be great, the point though is with the setup you have you should be running somewhere close to 7.3 Powerstroke numbers and have no problem pulling your load. Have you done the rest of the maintenance on your truck? If you bought the truck used then get the regular maintenance freshened up.

1. Change front/rear diff fluid
2. Repack front wheel bearings
3. Change gear lube in your ZF5 (also you might check your clutch and make sure you don't have some slippage going on)
4. Change your oil use a good synthetic oil with a high mileage additive, Lucas synthetic stabilizer, Duralube (I know the snickers, it works, 18yrs
experience with it)
5. Tires at proper pressure
The above reduces friction in the driveline, which more efficiently transfers the power you make to the rear wheels.

5. Change fuel filter
6. Check lift pump ($27.00 part can make all the difference in fuel pressure)
7. Pull an injector and see how dirty it is
8. Put a clear vinyl line on the return from the injectors overflow lines to pump to check for air intrusion
9. Run some DieselKleen through it or better yet when you change the fuel filter prime it with Seafoam and clean up your system. Add 2 cans to
your fuel tank as well
The above addresses Fuel delivery issues, if your engine is starting to starve for fuel at higher RPM especially around 2800 where you make your
max power then you lose performance, you need to be able to feed that big engine at higher RPM's to get the most out of it

10. New air filter
11. Check for Turbo system leaks
12. Cold air intake for your Turbo (Racin&Drummin proved the stock intake tube added a couple of horsepower on a dyno run, I think its still on
YouTube)

I am sure there is more, if you can check off these 12 things then you are more on your way to getting all you can from your IDI. All of it is cheaper than a new engine, will improve your trucks reliability, fuel economy, cheaper than debasing a Ford with anything other than a Ford engine.

None of the down and dirty maintenance is as **** as "putting in a new turbo" "swapping gears" "building a high performance IDI" or "swapping in a different engine" But it is the first place to start when wanting to get the most out of our trucks.

Yes good advice but all of that's been done and more. Except for the intercooler. And I still. We'd to check fir a few boost leaks but I'm sometimes hitting 10 psi which shouldn't be bad fur this turbo.
If you look at my revival cab swap thread you'll see that almost everything on my truck is brand new from the floor boards down.
I owned a 2015 cummins and although hp may be close it's really more like 350 to 400. And the torque is above 700 that's triple what the idi puts out.

I know some don't like taking the Ford out of the Ford. I'm also considering a powerstroke swap but I like the simplicity of the idi so much. If gears will fix her up it's really the cheapest solution.


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[morgankshaw]

Well boys it's off to the differential shop hopefully this fixes me up. I'll post back and let y'all know if I have any luck. If this works I'll get a bunch more years out if this motor and maybe even avoid ever doing a swap. Might not be done till early next week.


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[Black dawg]

I towed and overheated yesterday. I've tried two different napa fan clutches with no improvement. And yes I've replaced every other single piece of the cooling system! I'm still convinced it's a fan clutch problem especially since it heats up a lot idling after towing. so I ordered a ford motorcraft fan clutch hoping it fixes it.



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These cooling systems barely keep up with a good running turbo engine...with everything functioning, including a shroud.

Have to have a good factory style t-stat, good clean radiator, and a fan clutch that comes on early. The fan and clutch will never work correctly, especially at low speed without a shroud.

 

[morgankshaw]

These cooling systems barely keep up with a good running turbo engine...with everything functioning, including a shroud.

Have to have a good factory style t-stat, good clean radiator, and a fan clutch that comes on early. The fan and clutch will never work correctly, especially at low speed without a shroud.

Yeah that's why I put in a motorcraft thermostat and finally ordered a motorcraft clutch. New radiator new heater core new water pump new hoses have all been completed.

I saw a thread where someone added an air dam and put holes in the bumper for more air. If that doesn't fix her up. I'm gonna try electric fans against recommendation

I certainly don't want to go removing the turbo. But I could upgrade to possibly a better one... ?? Although at this point I'm not sure how much having it helps. Haha. Sure sounds cool though. [emoji23]


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[OLDBULL8]

My thoughts are, pushing those large width tires are going to increase the engine temps.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...7&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

 

[morgankshaw]

Yeah you're probably right. So I calculated that 4.56 would bring me to stock ratio. But to account for the extra width and weight I'm going with 4.88. I read a few articles where obs 5.4 guys did the same thing with good results.


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[Black dawg]

There was a place online that would mod an oem fan clutch to engage sooner, cant remember the name though. With a correctly operating stock clutch, you will be backing out of the throttle about the time it engages.

I certainly don't want to go removing the turbo. But I could upgrade to possibly a better one... ?? Although at this point I'm not sure how much having it helps. Haha. Sure sounds cool though. [emoji23]


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I feel that a wastegated turbo is an upgrade over these old non gated kits. My non gated turbo spools pretty quickly, but I have the up pipes wrapped and timing set to help it spool....the boost down low (with a WG) to use up some smoke would help my truck out.

If the power difference no turbo to turbo isn't huge......you aren't giving it enough fuel. A few years ago I had an intercooler boot pop off pulling a 6% grade here. Was in od (was auto then) making close to 15psi and going 65 ish pulling around 5k. When it popped off, I thought the motor quit...absolutely NO power.

 

[Thewespaul]

Intercooler! Intercooler! Intercooler!

 

[morgankshaw]

There was a place online that would mod an oem fan clutch to engage sooner, cant remember the name though. With a correctly operating stock clutch, you will be backing out of the throttle about the time it engages.


I feel that a wastegated turbo is an upgrade over these old non gated kits. My non gated turbo spools pretty quickly, but I have the up pipes wrapped and timing set to help it spool....the boost down low (with a WG) to use up some smoke would help my truck out.

If the power difference no turbo to turbo isn't huge......you aren't giving it enough fuel. A few years ago I had an intercooler boot pop off pulling a 6% grade here. Was in od (was auto then) making close to 15psi and going 65 ish pulling around 5k. When it popped off, I thought the motor quit...absolutely NO power.

I just say that but I've never driven one if these trucks na. My buddy actually has a factory turbo just sitting there. I should try to weasel him out if it for the waste gate alone.


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[bbjordan]

And the torque is above 700 that's triple what the idi puts out.

The factory turbo IDI was rated at 385 lb-ft of torque @ 1400 rpm. So, closer to double not triple.

 

[morgankshaw]

I just say that but I've never driven one if these trucks na. My buddy actually has a factory turbo just sitting there. I should try to weasel him out if it for the waste gate alone.


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Yeah but this is a non waste gated ats turbo.


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[FORDF250HDXLT]

I just say that but I've never driven one if these trucks na.

Oh,your missing out!