093 IS GATED, YES.
ALUMINUM STARTS TO MELT @ 1220*
ALUMINUM STARTS TO MELT @ 1220*
Towing temps boost pyrometer and gears
- Thread starter morgankshaw
- Start date
Black dawg
Registered User
1200 is a safe max. Ever driven a modern diesel with gauges...they will be 1200+ stock. I have personally seen 1100-1200 for hours on one of these with no issues.
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
Yeah but I figure if I'm 1100 or so on the flats. It's gonna melt down if I go up any hills. Sounds like conservative fixes for me would be to recheck seals and look for any boost leaks. Get an intercooler and possibly an upgraded pump and injectors set. Agreed? Maybe gearing isn't as necessary if I can do all that. I just don't want to waste money and not see any gains.
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that all sounds good but the turbo can only do so much. that will start to limit you.
the only thing I have towed so far is a motorless mustang on my 3,500 lb trailer. it wasn't on the highway but felt to have plenty of power for the speed I went and my truck dry is 8,500 lbs. maybe a total of 15,000 lbs if the car is 3,000 lbs but could be less.
if your still running hot, you can add some fluid to the fan clutch. you might loose some power but I have found you can stay in it longer and use what you got.
the only thing I have towed so far is a motorless mustang on my 3,500 lb trailer. it wasn't on the highway but felt to have plenty of power for the speed I went and my truck dry is 8,500 lbs. maybe a total of 15,000 lbs if the car is 3,000 lbs but could be less.
if your still running hot, you can add some fluid to the fan clutch. you might loose some power but I have found you can stay in it longer and use what you got.
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
Yeah. My truck weighs 6700 and the trailer sticker says 4800 dry. I might have to take it across the scales and verify that. So I'm at a supposed 12,000? Should be fine.
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Black dawg
Registered User
with a non wastgated turbo, a hill just adds more resistance, just creating more boost...keeping egt in check. I have personally had 4 of those turbo kits (one on my truck right now) and have never had troubles with high egt with maxed pumps and heavy loads.
I don't know that I have ever had to back out of the throttle because of egt...coolant temps are another story.
do you have a shroud?
I don't know that I have ever had to back out of the throttle because of egt...coolant temps are another story.
do you have a shroud?
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
I have a new cooling system and half a shroud due to the body lift. Maxed out pump? Does that mean you turned the fuel as far as it will go? I'm down to try anything but I think I'd want an intercooler first. Besides if it heats up it's easy to pull out if the throttle.
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As others have said, checking for leaks on both the intake and the exhaust side will help to make sure that you're getting the most out of your turbo. Any boost leak or any exhaust leak between the cylinder head and the turbo can adversely affect how the turbo builds up boost. An intercooler is free power, and if you decide to go with a Cummins swap, you can (and should) still run the same intercooler; you'll just need to redo the piping.
One thing I'd like to note...if you're seriously considering a Cummins swap, I would be careful about going to deeper (numerically higher i.e. 4.56 instead of 4.10) gears on your truck unless you're also planning to go with taller tires (which I would be extremely careful doing for a towing rig; tall tires can make for a more unstable truck with a load hooked to it). The 6BT is happiest cruising at lower RPM's than the IDI, so make sure you do the math to ensure that whatever variant you choose will be as close to its ideal cruising RPM at whatever speed you typically cruise at as possible.
Just my $.02
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
That's what I wanted to find out. I guess I'll start looking into those things. My exhaust system is new. I guess I need to go through gaskets or o-rings in the turbo system as I ad an intercooler.
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On the exhaust side, the big trouble spots are the exhaust manifold gaskets, the gaskets where the exhaust manifolds connect to the crossover pipes, and especially the slip fittings on the pipes going up from the crossover pipes to the exhaust housing "snail" on the turbo. Those slip fittings are a cast-iron bear to get to seal up properly, speaking as a fellow ATS 088 owner.
I would also check the O-ring on the slip fitting between the intake side of the turbo and the part that bolts to the intake manifold, as well as the fitting on the intake manifold itself, and for that matter, the "turkey pan" intake manifold gasket. If you can get access to a smoke machine, that would be ideal
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
So I'm thinking aside from the possible above turbo leaks which I'll try to check soon. I may make a cold air pickup or even an intercooler.
I towed and overheated yesterday. I've tried two different napa fan clutches with no improvement. And yes I've replaced every other single piece of the cooling system! I'm still convinced it's a fan clutch problem especially since it heats up a lot idling after towing. so I ordered a ford motorcraft fan clutch hoping it fixes it.
Aside from that the truck still towed pretty weak even on flat ground I think the 35's which are big and wide are just bogging me down. Anyone have experience running 35/12.5/17 tires and 4.88 gears?? No I'm not really concerned about mileage just the ability to pull a hill and not kill my motor.
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I towed and overheated yesterday. I've tried two different napa fan clutches with no improvement. And yes I've replaced every other single piece of the cooling system! I'm still convinced it's a fan clutch problem especially since it heats up a lot idling after towing. so I ordered a ford motorcraft fan clutch hoping it fixes it.
Aside from that the truck still towed pretty weak even on flat ground I think the 35's which are big and wide are just bogging me down. Anyone have experience running 35/12.5/17 tires and 4.88 gears?? No I'm not really concerned about mileage just the ability to pull a hill and not kill my motor.
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I can't help you with the tires, but if you still end up having issues with the fan clutch I would add some oil to it. It really does help.
morgankshaw
Full Access Member
I put the stock one back on I thought about that couldn't see how to ad any. It did look as if it was leaking a tad. Hopefully new one works!
As for the gears I'm hoping someone can chime in. I can't afford any swap fur quite a while so if gears can help this motor do what I need it's my cheapest option right now at about $1600. Unless anyone has a free cummins or dt360 for me. Haha!
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There is a thread on it here. You have to drill a hole twards the center of the clutch and add some oil.
austin92
Full Access Member
I wish you were closer, I could help you put the gears in
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