Sorro71
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Thanks Russ, I'll sleep a lot easier knowing that.
Time for a rebuild in Oz
- Thread starter Sorro71
- Start date
Both of my heads were resurfaced during my rebuild. I don't know the amount. An issue I ran into was the fit of the intake manifold. I had to file the bolt holes in the manifold to get them to line up with the head. I wanted to be able to start the bolts by hand without them being in a bind.
Sorro71
Full Access Member
Great Info, I'll keep an eye out for that.
I guess it must be getting a little on the cool side over your way?
We've had a run of 95+ f days with 95% plus humidity, I hate December weather.
It's on my bucket list to see a white Christmas one day.
I guess it must be getting a little on the cool side over your way?
We've had a run of 95+ f days with 95% plus humidity, I hate December weather.
It's on my bucket list to see a white Christmas one day.
We are expecting a big storm tomorrow. Currently here at Lake level (6200') there is no snow on the ground. There is some snow on the surrounding mountains, but the ski areas are limited to man-made snow on a couple of runs. Predicting snow levels (elevation where it is snow and not rain) is difficult with some of the Pacific storms. This one looks to have lots of moisture and not so cold, but snow level should drop tomorrow and give us some snow at this elevation. I get my share of hot weather in the summer as I travel to the California valleys regularly.
Sorro71
Full Access Member
I'm envious, sounds like you've got the best of both. Snow is not what I would of associated with California but seeing what elevation you're at I can understand. I checked it out on the net, you must have some great camping in your neck of the woods.
Sorro71
Full Access Member
Waited 2 weeks for another cylinder head to turn up from the wreckers. Surprise Surprise, this ones cracked. Running out of patience. So far they sent a 6.9 head instead of a 7.3 and now a cracked 7.3. I hope I have better luck next year.
Sorro71
Full Access Member
Got a little more done today. I fitted the front cover plate and water pump after lining up the marks on the timing gears, then removed the IP cover applied sealant and refitted the cover without moving the gear out of its mesh with the cam gear. Dropped in the new lifters and fitted the keeper plates, Fitted the Harmonic balancer. Then rolled the engine over and fitted the sump using only RTV as the gasket. Next step will be to fit the head studs and dowels then fit some cylinder heads.
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Sorro71
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Quite a while back before I joined the OB forum, when the Aussie and US dollar were at parity I purchased a facet duralift pump from Aftermark LLC after reading about them in an Internet search. The model I purchased is a 40285 which is rated at 4-6psi. Is anyone running this model pump successfully? Or will I need to get a higher pressure pump?
don't run a higher pressure pump!! it will affect the injection pump!!
Sorro71
Full Access Member
Hi All,
Its been a while since my last post. I've had no end of trouble trying to get another cylinder head. I was offered a set early in the piece and in hindsight I should of taken them. Thanks Mel. I'm hoping that problem's been solved, I ended up getting 2 remanufactured heads out of DCW in Oregon through the auto parts /wreckers that I've been dealing with here. They ship a container over every month from the USA full of parts for all the imported models over here. I ordered them before Christmas and then had the good fortune to get caught up in the west coast dockers industrial dispute. They've now arrived and should be here in a week or so.
While I was waiting for the heads, number 4 cylinder wall started get a small mark about the size of a match head about 1 3/4" down I tried to get a picture but couldn't get it to show in the photo. My first thought was cavitation, I don't know the engines history that well and it's one of the early 7.3's. I tried dye penetrant testing which didn't show anything but couldn't convince myself that it was nothing. It got the better of me so I pulled the engine down again and sent the block off to get pressure tested. The machine shop tested it to 100psi with no indications, even the core plugs held up which is reassuring. I installed the 7 dished type(used genuine ford) with a tool I made from dimensions I found on this forum
I think it was from one of RLDSL's or Gary's "Icanfixal" posts.
So I,ve started to reassemble the engine again I've attached a couple of pictures. It was a bit easier second time around.
I've been thinking about drilling a hole in the core plugs that block the water passages on the 7.3's to allow water to flow through for better cooling, from what I can tell the old head gaskets had a 3/16 hole in them. At the moment my plan is to drill a 3/16 hole in the core plugs(block & head) as well as the gasket. What's your thoughts guys?
Its gets pretty hot here at times and I would like to improve the cooling system in any way I can.
Its been a while since my last post. I've had no end of trouble trying to get another cylinder head. I was offered a set early in the piece and in hindsight I should of taken them. Thanks Mel. I'm hoping that problem's been solved, I ended up getting 2 remanufactured heads out of DCW in Oregon through the auto parts /wreckers that I've been dealing with here. They ship a container over every month from the USA full of parts for all the imported models over here. I ordered them before Christmas and then had the good fortune to get caught up in the west coast dockers industrial dispute. They've now arrived and should be here in a week or so.
While I was waiting for the heads, number 4 cylinder wall started get a small mark about the size of a match head about 1 3/4" down I tried to get a picture but couldn't get it to show in the photo. My first thought was cavitation, I don't know the engines history that well and it's one of the early 7.3's. I tried dye penetrant testing which didn't show anything but couldn't convince myself that it was nothing. It got the better of me so I pulled the engine down again and sent the block off to get pressure tested. The machine shop tested it to 100psi with no indications, even the core plugs held up which is reassuring. I installed the 7 dished type(used genuine ford) with a tool I made from dimensions I found on this forum
I think it was from one of RLDSL's or Gary's "Icanfixal" posts.
So I,ve started to reassemble the engine again I've attached a couple of pictures. It was a bit easier second time around.
I've been thinking about drilling a hole in the core plugs that block the water passages on the 7.3's to allow water to flow through for better cooling, from what I can tell the old head gaskets had a 3/16 hole in them. At the moment my plan is to drill a 3/16 hole in the core plugs(block & head) as well as the gasket. What's your thoughts guys?
Its gets pretty hot here at times and I would like to improve the cooling system in any way I can.
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I think if you go this route you will need to use 6.9 head gaskets. They have a rubber gasket around those coolant ports. I don't know if a hole drilled in a 7.3 gasket would seal. Check out the photo of the two gaskets. Icanfixall said the fire rings are the same size on both gaskets. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?70885-Disappiontment-In-The-Mountains/page5
david85
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Sorro71
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Got a little further today. Fitted the sump for second time, the harmonic balancer and water pump pulley.
I even remembered to put some sealant on the harmonic balancer keyway before I fitted it.
I should have the heads by end of next week, the first job will be paint them and I can start fitting them out with valves, springs etc.
I even remembered to put some sealant on the harmonic balancer keyway before I fitted it.
I should have the heads by end of next week, the first job will be paint them and I can start fitting them out with valves, springs etc.
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Sorro71
Full Access Member
It's been a while, I have the engine put together now. I didn't end up drilling the welsh plugs out on the head for improved cooling. I guess I'm a little scared to muck around with them after the difficulties I've had getting replacements. After getting some replacement heads from the US and then finding 3 valve guide bosses cracked on one I've had them repaired over here. I bought them from DCW in Oregon and they have been most helpful with advice on the best repair method, parts and have agreed reimbursed me for the cost of repairs.
t
I haven't put all the turbo stuff on top yet, just the up pipe at the back and some other brackets. Is it easier to do it now or when the engines in? I'm just worried about damaging it while fitting it. I have the radiator support removed.
One thing that's got me stumped is the vacuum pump position, I've got a heap of photos when I dismantled it but missed getting a good picture of the position. Do you think this looks like it's in the right position? It just doesn't look like its in the correct position. Where the hose attaches seems to be very tight.
I'm working on having this thing in this weekend 'mI just waiting for the heat shielding and more exhaust wrap to be delivered.
t
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I haven't put all the turbo stuff on top yet, just the up pipe at the back and some other brackets. Is it easier to do it now or when the engines in? I'm just worried about damaging it while fitting it. I have the radiator support removed.
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One thing that's got me stumped is the vacuum pump position, I've got a heap of photos when I dismantled it but missed getting a good picture of the position. Do you think this looks like it's in the right position? It just doesn't look like its in the correct position. Where the hose attaches seems to be very tight.
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I'm working on having this thing in this weekend 'mI just waiting for the heat shielding and more exhaust wrap to be delivered.
