Time for a rebuild in Oz

[Sorro71]

Hi guys, I'm try to fit all the freeze plugs/cups to the heads and bock. Is the size of the cup type plug on the head gasket side of the cylinder head. The ones that block the water galleries on the 7.3, 13/16". I bought a plug kit a while ago for the 7.3 engine and the size supplied is 13/16. I'm wondering if its a supposed to be a Ford genuine part only or do I have a set of dodgey cup plugs?

 

[cpdenton]

Freeze plugs are a ford only part. All others have a problem falling out.

You need a special tool to set them as well.

Have a read here.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?22387-How-to-replace-your-Freeze-Plugs

 

[Sorro71]

Thanks cpdenton, I purchased genuine Ford freeze plugs(dish type) for the block and I have installed them using a tool I had made using the dimensions that were in one of RLDSL's threads titled: "Freeze Plug Tool Plans". Fingers crossed everything is ok. I've installed most of the cup type ones now except the 1/2" oil gallery ones and those that go in the cylinder head, to block off the water passage. I have some 13/16 plugs that are just the slightest bit small (they were supplied as part of the aftermarket kit), I'm just wondering if they've also got to be a genuine part as in, they're a special size or do I most likely have a couple of bad plugs.
By the way how do you find the Moose junior/ Banks Sidewinder combo?

 

[typ4]

I will not remove factory coolant passage plugs again, they are stainless so wont rust out. I have not had an issue with mine but you have to order a stainless kit to get them.

I also think next engine I will drill or leave out those head deck plugs, it should help with the heating issues.

 

[Sorro71]

Thanks Russ, I'll second that! Do you have any ideas on where I might be able to find a set? Its of no use going to a dealership over here.

 

[cpdenton]

Sounds like you are on the right track. I have no experience like Russ does with the other plugs in the heads and various places.

To answer your question about the moose junior/sidewinder combo. It works great for me. A couple things I will do from this point going forward. It needs an intercooler. I get a little too much smoke and I can blow the EGT's out of range if I'm not careful while pulling my 8000 pound camper. I also need one of Russ' cams. The power band is a little higher in the RPM range than I would like. Nothing to do with the pump or turbo. I think a cam would help me more than anything.

All in all, I am pleased with what I have and have no intentions to change any time soon.

 

[Sorro71]

That's good to know, I have a boat about the same weight as that. My plan is to install one of Russ's cams in this engine. Unfortunately I have a C6, Id love to get hold of 5 speed manual but trying to fit the clutch in on the right with a LHD cab is way to much mucking about for me. What type of Inter cooler were you planing of fitting? I was thinking about maybe fitting a water/air type some time in the future.

 

[cpdenton]

I am going to try a cxracing unit.

FORDF250HDXLT documented the install well on his log truck build thread. Somewhere around page 4.

I bought a superduty all aluminum intercooler, but with my dually having a sway bar on the front, it physically won't fit without mods I am not equipped to do. So, going to try to sell this unit and get the cxracing unit.


Your c6 is going to be fine with the GV and the 3.55 rear end. I bet this combo will work well for you.
At times, I think my truck works better in 4th(direct drive) and honestly, 1st gear is just about worthless. An auto with a stall would work better to get loads moving.

 

[Sorro71]

Thanks, Ill have a look at that

 

[Sorro71]

I will not remove factory coolant passage plugs again, they are stainless so wont rust out. I have not had an issue with mine but you have to order a stainless kit to get them.

I also think next engine I will drill or leave out those head deck plugs, it should help with the heating issues.

Being a warmer climate here it would be something I'd be willing to try. I didn't realize the 7.3 had some heating issues. Has anyone done this modification?

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?70885-Disappiontment-In-The-Mountains/page5
Post #61 shows both 6.9 and 7.3 head gaskets. If the plugs were left out you would have to use a 6.9 head gasket, and verify that the holes matched the placement on the gasket. I don't know if anyone has done this, but it has been speculated. As my earlier picture shows, the 6.9 head and block have triangular water passages there, so if the holes in the gasket line up it should work (in theory).

 

[Sorro71]

Thanks Tom, I remember reading that thread when it was first posted. It's covered some ground since then. I think I'll let it be at the moment I'm getting to far ahead of myself, parts are to difficult to get and are expensive when available. I'll leave that to the experts. Put the cam and crank in this afternoon, will post some pics tomorrow.

 

[Sorro71]

Haven't done much to her of late. I fitted the crank, cam & 7 pistons that's about it. I dropped the eighth and broke the oil ring :. Finally got a replacement 7.3 head today so I'll get it stripped and of to the machine shop. Some of the exhaust valve guides are worn so it will need them redone as well. Being that the pistons come out slightly proud of the cylinder block I'm worried about valve to piston clearance after the heads and block have been resurfaced. The block has had .003" taken off it and the 1 good head has had .007 taken off it. I have fitted .010 reduced height pistons . Is the "Valve head recession relative to deck(head gasket) surface on the cylinder head" the critical measurement? The deck to deck measurement is .003" short on the refinished head.


A couple of shots before the pistons were fitted

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[Sorro71]

Bump

 

[typ4]

3 off the block is fine, on the head with 7 off, make sure the valves are sunk that far and you will be fine. make the other head match. If the rods are not already redone the bushings can be bored 4 to 7 thou offset to make it a little shorter. looks nice btw.

Piston protrusion above the deck is a critical measurment.