Three legged animal...

[1mouse3]

Did not do much today but did inspect the painting that was done two years ago. This area knocked down to bare metal well and had naval jelly applied before painting. It has held up well and only need minor touch up.

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I thought this went as well as above when prep and painting was done, dont remember if any treatment was applied here. Im getting rust creap here and though the rust got knocked off well, so not sure what is up with this area.

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This area has a bunch of issues and know there cause. The steering box and shock tower came loose at one point, so there is some chipping from that. By the body mount, I tied to rush it with a heat gun and the rippled paint is chipping. Too the right of shock tower, that was deep embedded rust and the treatment did not hold up. I think the spray on can was used here, rust on the inside of the frame was just as bad in that area.

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I did not want to contort myself any more after dealing with the under side of the crossmember. So dont think I sanded the spray can treatment well and is showing such.

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Yes I could had cleaned this area for show and tell. This area was a rust nightmare and see I gave up too soon messing with the naval jelly.

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The naval jelly dose something but is weak at 12% phosphoric acid. So went looking for something stronger and found this that I would estimate at 30%, its listed at 15% when mixed with water. I would rather not deal with muriatic acid, so will see if can get this to work better.

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It just gose in a squirt bottle...

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Then can spray it on areas I want experiamet on. Some saran wrap would keep it active for longer and not sure if is needed right now, so will see where this gose.

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[1mouse3]

Since another round of messing with rust has come to pass. Im try again to find information on steps to take and not sure if Im finding conclusive information. I know messing with my dads 66 coupe deville when young was a failer, the rust was back with in a year and he wanted to use fiber glass to fix the windows frames. It was sanded well, with a rust-oleum primer and a enamel top coat. What I learned form that is fiber glass dose not like to stick to metal and bondo brand filler is junk, that filler just cracked and caused more problems. Messing with the frame, I tryed several path with varying results. The area that seemed to be a pass is the the passenger front frame rail, that area ait a lot of energy. I keep trying to get the naval jelly to work with just brusing, but was too slow of progress. So grabed the angle grinder with flap disks to knock it down, this gave the jelly a fighting chance of doing something. It basicly was get it so brushing did not kick up brown rust and just iron phosphate was seen, also get the jelly to leave a purple shine with out the white flake. What I used after application was just a damp rag and took many trys not to get the white flake, I dont like the ideal of a lot of hard water.


This video I found is saying that the right path was taken there but Im not sold on all that water, maybe if distilled or filtered. Also this video is telling me to where glove to keep the metal clean, but what is to say the gloves are going to stay clean. So my take is dont touch the metal after application. Also not to brush after final application, in that it will defeat what was done.

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This is another video I found. In the comments he says the second bath is a alkaline chemical, so a baking soda mix would be equal. He dose not mention the acid used and in another vid it is green, so dont think is muriatic acid.

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This video has a mixed stack of information, some give more depth of what was metioned in the first. So even if the acid will turn the rust to iron phosphate, I dont what to remove the protective coating that the acid makes. Brusing off the final coat is what I did on the under side of the frame I belive. I did the same same with the floor pan, so may get rust back there.

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The two area I would like conclusive information on would be the lower section of the door post and the structure that will be behind the the outer quarter section, I dont want to have to redo those areas and there in bad shape. I will have to think on it some and see what else I find. Also it was brough up several times that should not have a paint that will absorb moisture.

 

[1mouse3]

I did some more digging and found this post that has this acid making a little more sense, it make some other vague statements make sense as well. So a lot of the products saying to rinse with water to neutralize is incorrect all around, it is to cover there rear. What the water is good for is if you let it get hard and form the white flake, think that is zinc phosphate and will be too lose to hold paint. What rinsing dose is reactivates the acid for removal of extra that is dormant on the suffice, it dose not neutralize what is there. What dose neutralize the acid will be a alkaline chemical, say bakeing soda or bicarbonate of soda will do. You only need to neutralize the acid if the paint wont stick to it or if the paint has a acid. So what you want for a final application of acid, is a diluted mix such that there is not a lot more then what will form a thin layer. Past this I will see what is needed when that point arrives.

God I have posted this info so many times for years and years on forums . . but here goes again. When I first started using phosphoric acid, it was a DuPont product. It said to wipe it off before it had a chance to dry. It worked perfectly. Many years later, I found that they ( DuPont ) had changed the direction to a water rinse. Many had complained of a flash rust after a water rinse. I always did it the way I first learned to do it. When I realized they changed their directions, I called DuPont. I spoke to a tech in the chemical dept who had first hand knowledge. he told me that people where allowing it to dry, which you clearly where not to do. I told him I had been wiping it off and wasn't interested in rinsing it, it worked fine. He agreed and said when he uses it he wiped it off as well and did not rinse. It was a change in the directions to cover theirs rears because people could not follow the original directions. This call was made some 20 years ago and I have been wiping it off only. So . which will you do? I am set with how I use the chemical. Trust me.

So needed supplys for testing and forgot to grab the some saran wrap...

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This is what I found the metal looking like after a few day, there is some filler dust hanging around as well..

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Not much time to play but at least found what those pad will do at this state of rust with a light scrub. When playing with this in your hands, it a good ideal to wear glove a and the dye wont come out for days, It have you looking like you played with the fire alarm, and those wipes do good to get it off your skin.

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I do see scrubing it cuts down on what is on the suffice and will dry fast leaving this state...

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Since did not grab saran wrap, will see what rags will do that wont stick to the suffice.

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[1mouse3]

The Wasp are trying to take over my truck, and not the band. So cant play with experimenting on the rust, need holes patched more so.


So started by getting the sealer off the floor...

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Then patch gets atatched to the floor pan...

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Then some bolts to pull the patch into the mount, followed by the air hammer...

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Then repeat for another two, and have this patch in where it will be after rivieted. Now need to make the two side bit and the backing strip.

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[1mouse3]

So on to more cardboard shapes...

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More plotted shapes...

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More shapes to play with...

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And shapes that have a tight fit, this one will have to go in before the mount.

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Now on to another...

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Then with another shape, can plot its step to the floor...

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Then guessing where the floor will be...

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And finishing a ploted step...

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Now have a shape I can test fit, and will test it another day.

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[1mouse3]

Well got the inner bit set in place...

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Then checked this edge and marked it...

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Then with it bent and in place...

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I was able to plot the offset needed...

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I did not like the aggressive step to the floor and tried again...

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This time it came out better and fit good...

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These two screews where what I could barely get to...

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It was enough to hold it in place and have the mount out to build this up...

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Now can plot the lower part...

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This is as good as it will get and dont have the metal to try again. One 90 moved in the vise on me and another broke playing with it too much, going to cut off that 90. With all the angle involved, this complexety bit was hard to make and at least its this close. Will make a overlab 90 where the bit broke, and will yeald a oem equivalent structural state.

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[1mouse3]

This is what I came up with for the reinforcement strip to tie it all together...

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And this is the tie to the old support rail. Where the tabs broke making this, I will make overlap bits out of scrap.

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[1mouse3]

Yesterday I tried to fit this strip and first found a gap...

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So made a filler bit...

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Then tried to screew it in place but all the screews snaped...

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So today when I pulled the patch, I was teased by screews that did not want to come out...

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I got them out eventually and replaced with #10 bolt...

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So that strip is in place...

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And have a tight seam now...

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Now to can clean more lumps off the floor...

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And make the backing bit for this area, there was cracks and holes in that area. So now can tare it down and sort out the door post.

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[1mouse3]

yesterday I played with it some, started by removing the rest of the old panel from here and making a replacement for the damaged 90...

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Then made filler bits....

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Then fitted the new panel in place, need to find a small drill to drill the holes for this...

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This filler maybe trimed some and will be rolled over the edge when time comes...

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Will have to decide if I like this gap as well.

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[1mouse3]

Got some done and started by marking cut points...

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Then have something I can work with...

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Then rolled the fill over but did not like the coverage...

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So had another try at it and like this one better...

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Now have enough of this area sorted and can recheck mount fitment. If all gose well can start prep for final assembly.

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[1mouse3]

somemore has been done and starting with the mount back in place...

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and sank some screew before that...

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Then had to find and buy a right angle drill to continue...

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At this point I have all rivet points ploted for the mount...

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So now have a majority of the rivet points ploted for this plate, am close to when can start cleanup and assembly.

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[hacked89]

somemore has been done and starting with the mount back in place...

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and sank some screew before that...

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Then had to find and buy a right angle drill to continue...

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At this point I have all rivet points ploted for the mount...

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So now have a majority of the rivet points ploted for this plate, am close to when can start cleanup and assembly.

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Nice work mouse

 

[1mouse3]

Im trying it a little different this round. So this round, I will be seeing if rivet holes will stay in the same place. So that means pre drilling all the holes for the rivets, #10 screews aid in that since the same size as 3/16 rivets. The mount was all ready done that way and this is finising up the rest of the holes. Wanted to try it this way, so dont have to deal with burs.

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So now have a pile of patches that need a permanent home...

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To give them that they need cleaned up first...

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Then get hung out on the cloths line...

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And then gets paint. Trying it this way since finding in research that primer will soak up moisture, and dont have a paint bath to soak this in.

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The order to this is...
First, cleaner fist to remove my fingerprints.
Second, acid to stabilize the rust.
Third, lint rags to wipe off excess acid before it drys.
Forth, primer over the fuzzy metal.
Fifth, final coat over the fuzzy primer.

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[1mouse3]

I got the mount mostly sorted out and started by getting these four hole drilled to the needed size...

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Then atatched the support plate to the mount, this will ge changed to 1/4in bolts. With that in place, started drilling holes...

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At some point the step bit will do no more, then is time for a burr to open it the rest of the way.

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The same is done for the lower plate.

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This is the wiggle room, I have on top for a washer.

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Now on to fixing a broken tab...

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And there, have that sorted.

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[1mouse3]

I got 1/4in bolts for this stack of metal, since rivets for it are not viable due to thinkness and needing a slim count.

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Also set more holes to the size for rivets...

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Then made the bit for the other broken tab...

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Now have compleated the patch for the support rail and its all cleaned up nice and shinny.

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I went over the mount as well, but the flap disk would not buff out all areas. So still need to do touch up with a wire brush.

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