Three legged animal...

[Rdnck84_03]

I used some of that VHT paint on the exhaust manifolds of my 302 rebuild. It seems to hold up very good to the high temperatures, doesn't seem to hold up to abrasions very well though.

James

 

[1mouse3]

I used some of that VHT paint on the exhaust manifolds of my 302 rebuild. It seems to hold up very good to the high temperatures, doesn't seem to hold up to abrasions very well though.

James

Yea, it may not be durable coat and would give a thin coat. I have a can of high build black but that paint was needing to be baked on last I used it. I dont have a good way to do such and running around in a circle with a heat gun, eats a lot of time. Altho that vht might be a little bit more durrable, if instructions are followed an its baked on as well.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I haven't investigated the coating after running the engine, honestly i didn't even read the directions. On my manifolds it should have baked itself, but was probably supposed to have been done shortly after painting. It was about 2 weeks after before I got the engine started.

James

 

[1mouse3]

I have only used the vht on the exhost manifolds I made and the turbos. Those had a hole that the heat gun could be stuffed in, they all got like a hour each twice. So not sure on the paint but is up for trial.

 

[1mouse3]

Well got 2 bags of 100 rivets off ebay, they where 100 at half cost of past bags of 50 and dont look as good as straggalers...

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Trial point is this panel...

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Well tryed to send them but found them to be sub par. The mandrel pulls through and dont think have a good structral crimp, like the past batches of 3/16 ones. Also the mandrel is not staked in place and the rivet gun was no help, there was more fighting it.

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So did not get anywhere and thinking fill the gap with JB to send it...

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Also have exchanged the cans for a pint. Took a bit of back and forth, but for the cans given they have the high solvent pre filled.

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I got the name this time I think.

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGIND&doctype=PDS&prodno=K2A&lang=2

Also these had got another coat some time back and is still hagging around baking in the sun.

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[DaveBen]

JB Weld is not a body filler. It is epoxy glue. Bondo Body Filler is what you want. It is made for what you are doing and it sands easy. Home Depot has Bondo as well as most auto parts stores.

 

[1mouse3]

JB Weld is not a body filler. It is epoxy glue. Bondo Body Filler is what you want. It is made for what you are doing and it sands easy. Home Depot has Bondo as well as most auto parts stores.

What Im trying to do is fill the gap between the two metals, with something that will become hard. Do you still say that is for body filler? The bondo brand filler cracks to easy, so would want a better quality one.

 

[DaveBen]

OK, I have got it now...

 

[Rdnck84_03]

The bondo brand filler cracks to easy, so would want a better quality one.

I have started using the fiberglass reinforce stuff. It is harder to sand, but seems to hold up better.

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I was buying this at O'Reilly

 

[1mouse3]

Scrubing phosphoric acid low rust metal, can give some newish looking serface for the mosr part...

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Then after scrubed several times and gives almost no flash of zinc, It rush to add primer before it sets after a wipe...

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Then some lesser enamal is thrown on it, the high build black I have dose not set fast.

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I got a new gun to play with...

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So need a test place, but is a little dirty...

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So that is scrubed off...

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Now we see the issue I have with paint with a lot of reducer, that was geen and is still seen through. The runny line above is from, the last shot out a high build can...

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Though could clean it for paint to stick good easy, so my special new ones will stick...

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But when sorting this wrong trim, I found clear under the green. So going to need to decided on it.

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[1mouse3]

I cleaned and sanded the area of the frame needing another coat, this shoot was the last of the other high build...

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Then took the easy way with a flap disk to get a good area...

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Then found green fuzz...

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Then clean up...

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I dont know if I broke the gun, got the mix too wrong, or did not set the gun right. So was full send of paint and will fix it later if needed. This is after it self leveled for about 20 minutes and might do more over time, I did not use hardner.

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I think I got enough to lay out but it dribbled mad here, it might settle out. This high build is compeating well with the stack of old paint, just need to find the failer.

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[1mouse3]

To pick a easy place to test the gun again, where paint wont be wasted. I chose to further repair this area that was shot two years ago, and right was a start of the repair.

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I forgot how stiff of shocks I got...

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And this is damage from this tower coming lose it the past...

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Then took a scrub pad with acid to it and cleaned it up after...

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While I here, I might as well try to deal with some the chipping paint on the axle.

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[1mouse3]

First off, this itch intrusive plant needs to go...

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So that was all riped out and safe for now...

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I also found this nice carpet, that might last a few days...

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Then started finding what wanted paint and some of what needs to hide, reduced in full to paper. The axle got a razzor blad to remove chipping paint, then cleaned and sanded.

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I even got this area preaped, but ran out of time and hope cold is not a issue tomorrow.

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[1mouse3]

Finished the masking and at that point was told, could had saved time with tin foil...

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I have paint that might stick and hope its not too cold...

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The axle is dechiped for now, as well.

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[1mouse3]

Yea, the 4:1 mix was runny on the frame. But look at the some what decent shot of 5:1 mix shot on the axle...

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I do delcare, that using paper wastes time to put on but it falls off well when wet...

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So chiped paint is sorrted for the most part on the axle, and will see how long it last this time.

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I also thought I had a bright ideal to make these all straight, but the plane was askew to have proper measurements...

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So just winged it by eye and can have the battery tray installed.

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