Three legged animal...

[1mouse3]

Well time is about to past to shove the replacement engine in but should fix something so is easyer than last time. One the cab mounts are past due for replacement and it limits how high I can raise the transmission, the engine fought me last time to fall in place because of this. I have ordered the cab mount and rockers, but there are parts not listed for replacement. One part I would need is this support rail that goes under the cab mount...

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The other would be the inner piller post peice, dose anyone know where to get these or means to make something else work?

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[Noiseydiesel]

Top of my head says LMC truck. (?) West coast cab is another choice. Arizona, Nevada,etc.

 

[1mouse3]

Top of my head says LMC truck. (?) West coast cab is another choice. Arizona, Nevada,etc.

This is the limit to what lmc sell and bronco graveyard is the same stock, there was one other place listing the same stuff as well.

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This is as much metal as I could get from lmc, so short inner post sections. There is other sections needed but can make flat metal work in those areas.

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[1mouse3]

I started opening the can of worms and pulled out the self destructive foam. The inner panel will need patch but need to think on it, since in a sandwich.

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That hole, need to bends some metal to make something work. Would like to have been able to get the piece of metal between the rocker and cab corner and I dont have a brake to bend metal. Can beat thinner metal in to shape but this thicker stuff is a bit more of a challenge.

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Not sure how water is getting the truck, but makes a muddy mess that causes rust. This piece is to be replaced but excavate it.

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Still thinking on this post piece...

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And this will be a bit of a task.

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Also there is no way for this outer post piece to fit, its no where near the right shape. So am sort metal to fix this post and thay need stanped into shape.

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[1mouse3]

I have taken to cutting chunks out of other trucks to patch with. Also, a black dull finish hides more (semi-gloss for me). Bedliner/rockerguard hides even more.

I see where your getting with this and seems to be the only option to fix this. Im not sure I saw any trucks at the yard the other day I was there to be able to salvage what I need. So need to do as you say and start hording stuff when is found for the body.

 

[1mouse3]

West coast cab is another choice. Arizona, Nevada,etc.

Im not sure how Im to drag a parts truck home from out there.

 

[hacked89]

My truck looked like yours but worse. I cut, welded and beat everything together. Left the post as it was because reproduction wasn’t available but cut plates and welded from underneath to keep water out. I’m going to run no carpets for awhile while addressing any water intrusion until it’s dry. Then l’ll carpet. You can see the weld lines, it’s not far from saying I cut most of the bottom part of the cab off and welded new.

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[1mouse3]

My truck looked like yours but worse. I cut, welded and beat everything together. Left the post as it was because reproduction wasn’t available but cut plates and welded from underneath to keep water out. I’m going to run no carpets for awhile while addressing any water intrusion until it’s dry. Then l’ll carpet. You can see the weld lines, it’s not far from saying I cut most of the bottom part of the cab off and welded new.

Thanks for the inspiration for just making something work. Iv been going over it trying to figer out a plan of attack and path to save as much of the orginal metal. Like that rear post patch piece, I cant get around not using it beacuse how it is part the structure. Im going to have to rebend it so that it will some what work, then scabe a patch between it and the original. This would mean I cant have the step for the jamb switch and have to flatten out that area, Im going to be using steel 3/16 rivets and jb marine weld, that is what I found at the parts store with the longest set time. Got to wonder what thay used to measure these part out with, because its not a ruller.

 

[hacked89]

Thanks for the inspiration for just making something work. Iv been going over it trying to figer out a plan of attack and path to save as much of the orginal metal. Like that rear post patch piece, I cant get around not using it beacuse how it is part the structure. Im going to have to rebend it so that it will some what work, then scabe a patch between it and the original. This would mean I cant have the step for the jamb switch and have to flatten out that area, Im going to be using steel 3/16 rivets and jb marine weld, that is what I found at the parts store with the longest set time. Got to wonder what thay used to measure these part out with, because its not a ruller.

Agreed on the jam actuator I’m replacing my 3point seatbelts with new ones that don’t use the jam friction actuators

 

[1mouse3]

I had some time to spend getting the rocker out today. Still need to get it off the front post, but at least I got the hard part out.

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Im going to have to make a few pieces, so can rebuild this section.

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Also found around a 1/4 inch of puddy, that repaired past damage. Im not sure how Im going to finish sanding it off so the new metal can get attached

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[1mouse3]

This piece of the rocker ait a lot of time to get out and free now

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So have it now in a state, I can build this section back up

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Do now have the rocker fitted in place with a few screews...

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And have the corner loosely in place, will get it fit better at a later time.

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[1mouse3]

I started by getting this outer pannel to fit better and could not use the stamped lip for the post, so that was cut.

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Also cut a slit and pinched the rear cornner, so the pannel would fit flush. Well flush is subjective, since the rear of the cab was beat up in the past.

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Then did the same on the post with a cut and pinch.

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It was a bit of effort to get this lower post piece to fit and is in place as good as will get

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So I have the base outer structure build and now need to build the inner structure.

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Also need to decide on how I am going fill this gap from poor repair part.

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Also fought this door some to get a good gap all around and this how well the pieces fit.

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[1mouse3]

I started this round by cuting the rest of the switch area out an reshaped it so I can build up this area.

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Then on to a template for the inner panel patch.

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Then with that made, can beat and stitch it into place

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Now am left with needing to make the filler peice.

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Also have enogh in place so can rebuild the bridge to the outer panel.

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[1mouse3]

So today is punishing a piece of metal for not fitting..

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It took some to get two vice grips in place...

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It also took some beating to get it too more form a shape.

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Then is more timming to fit.

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Then the first key of the puzzle.

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Now have a starting point to anchor it down.

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More trimming for anothor key.

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By this point, I can plot all rivet points for the post repair.

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I got all that cleaned and ready for glue, but that was a fail for the first area. The best harbor fright rivet gun was not able to pull 3/16 steel rivets, so small area will not hold now.

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[1mouse3]

Well I got the gun to work..

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But a 13/64 bit is too loose and sloppy, so going to make a 3/16 work. Some are good and some pulled through the first layer.

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This is the parameter that needed set but was not.

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