Three legged animal...

1mouse3

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You’re walking almost part by part down the path that I experienced a couple years ago

So you must sail a similar ship as me running on the mine set of one mans trash is another mans treasure, the depth of the swamp is unkown till you dive head first into it. A shell is all I need to build the monster I wanted and that is what I got 10 years ago. I had the chance to drive both a jeep gladiator and a ford high boy when young, how they rode appealed to me and I wanted something equivalent. I never found a high boy cheap and the 71 f250 2wd I had, misfortune fell apown it. So this truck is what I found that fit the bill for a shell and had the bonus of being had a idi in it at one point, a square body burban was the other option at the time. So with the shell and the drive train found shortly after, so the hunt was on for the kingpin 60 that took years to find for what I could afford. So at this point I have what was sought out and just need to iron out the details. She maybe rough around the edges but that will buff out. I am trying my best not to hack this together and send, like I have with the f100 but options on the table are slim pickins.
 

1mouse3

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So now on to cutting out the main chunk of the mount...


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And the bad section of the floor it attached to...

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I saw also that this top lip was tweked a bit...

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And the insulation was serving as sponge...

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So picked a spot to tug at the floor so can beat at it with a hammer...

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That made a crease, so on to another spot and the air hammer...

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So now can remove the rest of the mount...

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That was a bit of a fail since the spot welder used had misaligned tips. One side had the burn on one side of the weld and the other was on the opposite side. So a mess was made of the floor...

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So took the air hammer to it, so can restraighten the metal...

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So back to this photo, there is a support rail that is broke in half. I am going to have to think on how I am going to rebuild that so the mount has a place to attach.

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hacked89

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Same for mine, I welded this area very good and then added a small bit of metal to connect where the missing support beam was. This was on my mind throughout the build. It survived a 45mph death rattle which is a good stress test. I wouldn’t take it hard off roading though without welding a beam across the back end where the support bar originally was.
 

1mouse3

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I dont see a option where the mount can be riveted to that front bit with it in the truck. The valid option I see is to remake that front bit, bending 16 gauge sheet could be done. Riveting to the floor and whats left of the brace, when riveted to mount is more plausible. So I cut what was in my way out, will get that strip off the floor later.


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So I need the mount mocked up into place, so I can make card board shapes

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Issues with bad fitting parts are still on the table, the mount has to line up to the rocker like so, so I can rivet it in place

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With it like this, I have a gap between the mount and floor.

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All I could see as a option, is run the front edge the rocker up with the air hammer. Any more than this, I risk tweeking the rocker such that the side edge wont be flat.

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I also ran the air hammer down this edge to try at molding it to the mount, also ran from the bottom. Its closer but there is still a gap, will have to think on what other areas I have some give and continue another day.

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hacked89

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You want to weld that mount.
Similar to what you did with the air hammer i sledged it together and then welded.
 

1mouse3

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I going to use bolts on the top lip where the mount meets the floor, with another stip of metal over the top since is all holey. That would let me crimp that edge together good and tight. I dont see why steel structural rivets, cant be used for the rest of the edges.
 

hacked89

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I should say, personally, I wouldn’t feel down with that idea but I’m not saying it wouldn’t work. Maybe it will work great. I just like welding stuff together.
 

1mouse3

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This is not my first rodeo and this is the front cab mount that came with my f100


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When I moved the body to a replacement frame, I had to rebuild this section of the floor.

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That bar that is bolted to the mount and is only straped to the original body in few places.

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The floor pan is there and held in with screews

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When I preped it for the 20k mile run for last year, all I did was make the matching rocker and finished the adjustment to get the steering column true.

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Someone ran in to the rearend when parked..

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It did not through off my work and only bent up this post.

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LIke I said, im trying my best not to hack it together like this. Some the 1/8 inch screews would vibrate loose when the engine would brake free, replaced those with 1/4 inch and had no more issues. With the f250, at least Im trying to follow original build procedures with fasteners that are structural as a substitute for spot weld. If rivets can hold a air plane together and a crude build could hold a f100 together, why cant rivets reassemble the f250?
 

hacked89

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why cant rivets reassemble the f250?
I’ve read rivets are stronger then welding and I’ve read welding is stronger than rivets. I’ve also read that rivets are equal strength aslong as there isn’t shear load in opposing directions. I don’t know what’s true since even if you google it the information contradicts itself, but I like welding. I think it would be cool to see riveted cab mounts though. What size rivets do you plan for the mounts? I might have missed it
 

1mouse3

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Was thinking to continue with the 3/16 rivets or should I go to a 1/4 inch? The 3/16 have a minimum shear strength of 1300 lb and tensile strength of 1000 lb. Where the 1/4 is at minimum shear strength of 2500 lb and tensile strength of 1850 lb. Will have to check metal thickness for grip range.
 

1mouse3

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What I found to give relief, was to cut back this lower bit of the rocker...


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And I cut off the end of these rivets and drove them out, so that this lip can move around...

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This let me drive up the rocker some, now need I need to get the mount to like the floor.

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So for the floor, I started with a dimple and made it more straght...

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There is still a issue of a gap, the mount is thick metal and dose not want too mold to the floor. So Im going to put it in the vise, and try there, Also going to get a bunch of #10 bolts for this section, that #8 on the end is small for what I want. Going to get a thick sheet to make a plate over the top, this could help with shaping this up

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As for rivet size, for the rest of the mount. This is what I see as the variables, on what would do for rivet size.

Code:
1500lb = Cab base weight could be if I make it a full coatch build
300lb = Added weight of steereo
100lb = My small tool box
120lb = My cordless tool bag
130lb = Me
300lbx3 = Three fat guys for a task


~760lb = Would be my estimate value to what the cab mount would need to support



So for what I see, the 3/16 rivet will do to keep any rivtes ripping out starting a tare. Also the door closes like butter and has since I set it, that took a bit. The seal aint perfect around door but latches as should, matching lines as well. Having both post shured up, with the weight of this sides rocker sitting on a 4x4 post. This cab dose not move around, and dose not have me question hammering at the truck.

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1mouse3

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I ran the mount through the vise to make a straght edge and added a bit more tapper, to push the mount hole back a hair...


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Also, I got a 1/8 in strip for the top crimp and a 1/4 in plate for the mount support that is missing...

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So this top edge will be sent as is, and is as good as will get. I went for 1/4 in screews for this strip and dose a adequate job of crimping this area.

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So time has come, I can open this box and play with it content...

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Now with the mount in place with its bushing, Im satisfied with its placement.

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The mount Is also close to where it should be to aline with the floor pan, so can start patching the pan and then make the side bits.

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1mouse3

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Did not get much time to mess with it, but got something done. I started by sketching out what I wanted...


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Then transferd it to a piece of card board...

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Then the cardbard gets transfered to the sheet of metal...

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Then I get more failer, the metal wanted to make noise instead of bend. When trying to force it with the air hammer, it just ripped the sheet. So dont get a 90 to attach to pilller...

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It might had been better too have made the 90 after this crease was made. Ether way I have something to call a patch for the floor pan. Need to decide if Im going to attempt to make the rib in the patch or use the rest of the 1/8 in strip to substitute for it.

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