79jasper
Chickenhawk
No puter, no scanner, nada. The book I have is just a Haynes diesel repair. But what specific info you looking for? I've done many a clutch change and swapping trans.
S1600 Rebuild
- Thread starter SyicoIDI
- Start date
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
torque values and lubrication points.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
What transmission is it?
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
I am not sure which transmission it is. It is a 5spd manual with a split rear. I put the flywheel on and used blue lock tight. I torqued them down to 55 lbs in a alternating pattern. Then I cleaned up the pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner. The clutch and flywheel have less than 2k miles on them so I was not concerned with resurfacing the flywheel.
I did not have access to a alignment tool big enough so I got creative.
I made myself a tapered dowel that put my pilot bearing on one end and held the clutch disk snug on the other. Tapped it in with a rubber mallet softly. Then rechecked alignment two or three times.
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Then to be sure I used black pipe that fit snug in the clutch disk, and ground down the edge so it was flat. I then painted the edge orange and marked the bearing to check placement.
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It looks a little off in the picture but it is the camera angle. The orange ring is consistent all the way around.
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I hope that does the trick I will let you guys know if I am wrong.
Clutch is not torqued down yet as I am not sure on the proper torque numbers.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
My book doesn't say specifically for pressure plate. But has "flywheel, dual mass, secondary to primary flywheel bolts - 47ft/lbs"
And at the top for unlisted says:
1/4 - 20UNC = 7FT/LBS.
5/16 - 18UNC = 14FT/LBS.
3/8 - 16UNC = 24FT/LBS.
7/16 - 14UNC = 38FT/LBS.
1/2 - 13UNC = 60FT/LBS.
Literally the ONLY time I have ever used a torque wrench was when doing headgaskets on a V6 camaro once. It was a crap job and they didn't wanna have the heads checked first, so needless to say, it still made a milkshake. Anyways I always look at the material it's going into and have a feel for when it's tight enough. Many flywheels, clutches, pressure plates, flex plates, torque converters, and never had a problem yet. And these are all family/friends vehicles and they beat the sh*t out of them. So it's working thus far. But if you feel you'd rather have it right, by all means go for it.
And at the top for unlisted says:
1/4 - 20UNC = 7FT/LBS.
5/16 - 18UNC = 14FT/LBS.
3/8 - 16UNC = 24FT/LBS.
7/16 - 14UNC = 38FT/LBS.
1/2 - 13UNC = 60FT/LBS.
Literally the ONLY time I have ever used a torque wrench was when doing headgaskets on a V6 camaro once. It was a crap job and they didn't wanna have the heads checked first, so needless to say, it still made a milkshake. Anyways I always look at the material it's going into and have a feel for when it's tight enough. Many flywheels, clutches, pressure plates, flex plates, torque converters, and never had a problem yet. And these are all family/friends vehicles and they beat the sh*t out of them. So it's working thus far. But if you feel you'd rather have it right, by all means go for it.
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
My book came in today. It has lots of good information in it. If I get a chance i will try to scan it into the computer. Has anyone taken apart there oil cooler to replace the seals. The book says to tap the ends to break the rubber o rings then twist the ends off. But I had this thing in a vice and a strap on it. But it wont budge. Is there a trick or do i need more leverage?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Tap em off with a hammer. Carefully! Good deal on the book.
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
They dont twist?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
They have locating tabs. At least it should. But you may be able to twist it some. Use some good ole gasoline as a penetrate to reach the old o-rings.
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
*** is this?
Just to update you guys I have located a local shop to rebuild my Injector pump back to factory specs. The name of the company is Boston Injectors a heavy truck mechanic friend of mine refereed me to them. They have two locations one is in Ma the other is in RI. I have been dealing with Pedro from RI. He seems like a cool guy and he is reasonable. The other clowns I was dealing with are Henry's diesel performance in Westport MA. These guys had my pump and injectors for close to two weeks without even looking at them or giving me prices. I called 3 times and could not get one answer as far as time frame. Their attitude was "we will get to it when we get to it." I highly recommend spending your money elsewhere.
Oil Cooler:
So I had another thread about my oil cooler a lot of you guys saw how nasty it was, and what I had to do to clean it up and weld a lip back on it. I know a few of you cautioned me about melting the solder. It seams to be 100%. I filled up the side I welded with PB blast (penetrating oil) and sat it face down on top of a napkin. I left it like that for two days and nothing leaked through. What do you guys think? Sufficient proof? or is my little test bullsh*t. I pressed the ends on already so I hope this is going to work. Took a lot of force to press back in. I had to make a jig up on my workbench and use my vise in reverse to press together.
Also: When mounting the oil cooler back to the block. There is a threaded hole that does not seem to line up with the end caps on the oil cooler is this a plug of some sort?
Any sealants used on this thread or the gaskets for the oil cooler?
Just to update you guys I have located a local shop to rebuild my Injector pump back to factory specs. The name of the company is Boston Injectors a heavy truck mechanic friend of mine refereed me to them. They have two locations one is in Ma the other is in RI. I have been dealing with Pedro from RI. He seems like a cool guy and he is reasonable. The other clowns I was dealing with are Henry's diesel performance in Westport MA. These guys had my pump and injectors for close to two weeks without even looking at them or giving me prices. I called 3 times and could not get one answer as far as time frame. Their attitude was "we will get to it when we get to it." I highly recommend spending your money elsewhere.
Oil Cooler:
So I had another thread about my oil cooler a lot of you guys saw how nasty it was, and what I had to do to clean it up and weld a lip back on it. I know a few of you cautioned me about melting the solder. It seams to be 100%. I filled up the side I welded with PB blast (penetrating oil) and sat it face down on top of a napkin. I left it like that for two days and nothing leaked through. What do you guys think? Sufficient proof? or is my little test bullsh*t. I pressed the ends on already so I hope this is going to work. Took a lot of force to press back in. I had to make a jig up on my workbench and use my vise in reverse to press together.
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Also: When mounting the oil cooler back to the block. There is a threaded hole that does not seem to line up with the end caps on the oil cooler is this a plug of some sort?
You must be registered for see images attach
Any sealants used on this thread or the gaskets for the oil cooler?
Last edited:
SyicoIDI
Full Access Member
I have also taken the trans out and taken the yolk off to replace the rear main seal which was leaking. Turns out the trans is a 5 speed Spicer CM-4054. just out of curiosity did the Spicer come in any of you guys ford pickups?
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6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
no spicers in the fords. either a t-19, zf-5, c6 or e4od
GOOSE
Happy IDI'er
Your jig and vice useage are a great idea. I use copper coat on the back side of the gaskets, leave the side with the orange/red outline alone. The mating surfaces need to be clean and dry. I do not recall doing anything with the threaded hole you mentioned, sorry.
Your build looks sweet, keep us updated on everything.
Your build looks sweet, keep us updated on everything.
460mudsports
Full Access Member
My S1600 has a Spicer ES42 in it. That is just the newer version of the 4054.
PM me your email and I will send you a 3 page pdf from transmission digest that includes some good info on your trans ie oil weights, ratios, dimensions, etc. I am not on here daily, so it may take me a few days to send it, but I will PM you back when I do.
PM me your email and I will send you a 3 page pdf from transmission digest that includes some good info on your trans ie oil weights, ratios, dimensions, etc. I am not on here daily, so it may take me a few days to send it, but I will PM you back when I do.
