I believe Justin at R&D states 350 WHP as the max safe sustained power for stock rods
300 WHP will be enough for me, and is probably safer if towing heavy, which I intend to do.
First engine rebuild
- Thread starter Suddenly
- Start date
300 WHP will be enough for me, and is probably safer if towing heavy, which I intend to do.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think I remember that Wes said that he had a problem at 325, but I might be wrong. I think that 350 is generally the limit. Either way, I was trying to point out that N/A rods can hold up to quite a bit and will be just fine for the vast majority of us. I prefer to stick to the 275-300 WHP range for more long term reliability.
Suddenly
Registered User
Got my engine back from the shop today, for now anyway.
Block bored 0.02 over, rough honed for now until I figure out pistons
Decked 0.007
Heads fully rebuilt, comp 910 springs. Decked 0.008 I believe
Crank polished and inspected
Now for pistons, will give Justin a call next week to order head studs, pistons and rings.
We left the block rough honed for now in case I can't get 0.02 pistons. So it'll be back for a hone at least and a final wash
How likely am I to have piston protrusion issues with the block being decked? Shop suggested I might be able to find the reduced compression pistons and then taking more off the block to get the clearance needed. I remember reading somewhere that you can have intake manifold issues if you take too much off.
Block bored 0.02 over, rough honed for now until I figure out pistons
Decked 0.007
Heads fully rebuilt, comp 910 springs. Decked 0.008 I believe
Crank polished and inspected
Now for pistons, will give Justin a call next week to order head studs, pistons and rings.
We left the block rough honed for now in case I can't get 0.02 pistons. So it'll be back for a hone at least and a final wash
How likely am I to have piston protrusion issues with the block being decked? Shop suggested I might be able to find the reduced compression pistons and then taking more off the block to get the clearance needed. I remember reading somewhere that you can have intake manifold issues if you take too much off.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
With .007" milled off of the block, I think that you should look for some .010" decompressed pistons to be safe. That's just a WAG. The best way is to measure after you've got the pistons in. You definitely took an unusual route. Most people buy the pistons and then have the block bored so that the cylinders can be finish honed with only one trip to a machine shop.
Suddenly
Registered User
Yeah might be a little backwards, first time remember.
Spent some time today cleaning off the rods and rockers, and oil squirters.
4/8 oil squirters seemed to have gunk blocking them and wouldn't let anything through, used a few strands of copper wire to clean them out.
Mixed up the intake and exhaust rods on disassembly, but kept them with their rockers at least.
How do I determine the condition of the rods, lifters, and rockers?
Spent some time today cleaning off the rods and rockers, and oil squirters.
4/8 oil squirters seemed to have gunk blocking them and wouldn't let anything through, used a few strands of copper wire to clean them out.
Mixed up the intake and exhaust rods on disassembly, but kept them with their rockers at least.
How do I determine the condition of the rods, lifters, and rockers?
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