Suddenly
Registered User
This engine has had a rough life if it's out for a second time at 200k KM, no mention of previous rebuild from the last owner. I'll make sure to measure piston protrusion once I get everything back from machining.
First engine rebuild
- Thread starter Suddenly
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's good, but you also will need to check valve clearances. The piston protrusion can be fine and still have clearance issues.
FrozenMerc
Full Access Member
That sort of contact can also occur during an engine over speed condition that results in valve float. Basically the valve spring can't close the valve fast enough as the piston is coming back up the bore and the piston ends up "assisting" in the valve closure.
Suddenly
Registered User
Ah, the money shift. Guess someone got lucky
Suddenly
Registered User
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The three toward the front of the block are oil gallies. The one toward the back of the block is the block drain for draining coolant. One more thing that you can do, if you feel confident about it, is to remove the two plugs beside and above the cam. I use push rods. It takes three. Tap on the one that sticks out of the oil galley plug on the back of the block. I use a dead blow or rubber mallet. After they're out, you can tap those holes to 1/4" NPT and use a pipe plug in them too. If yo do this, BE CAREFUL! ONLY GO IN 4 OR 5 THREADS. If you go and deeper than that, you can block off one of those oil gallies and then you won't get oil to that side of the engine. for the lifters, push rods and rocker arms. If you don't want to tap those holes, after you reinstall the plugs, take a chisel and ping (as I call it) the top, bottom, and both sides of the holes. This deforms the metal around the plugs like the factory did. If you don't ping the metal, one or both WILL work it's way out and then you lose oil pressure. This is a problem that happens fairly often with engine rebuilders who don't know about doing this trick.
Suddenly
Registered User
To clarify, pull plugs 1/2, and use something long and skinny enough to push out 3/4?
Not sure how I feel about tapping them, but may give it a go as it seems like a more reliable option than reusing the plugs.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes. Just remember that if you remove plugs 3 and 4, you will have to make sure that they don't fall back out. Tapping seems intimidating at first, but it's really simple. We always did that at the shop I used to work at. We always used pipe dope to seal them up. They won't tall back out after that stuff dries. It doesn't look like the plugs are in gar enough, but they are. You don't have to tap those holes, it's just a suggestion. You can reuse the original plugs.
The cup plugs on the front deform when installed and need to be replaced with new ones. The old ones will no longer be an interference fit. My block came back from the machine shop with those removed and they provided new ones that were not going in without a lot of force. I ended up driving them in with an air hammer and hopefully staking them in place.
Suddenly
Registered User
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Some people bore them .030. The machine shop that did our engines when I was working on them for a living would only take them to .020.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
This is for 7.3? How far can 6.9 go? I think project little foot is currently 10 over. Curious if it has long life ahead, or if this is it. Note to self - start collecting blocks and leave them around the yard. Maybe the wife won't notice.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That was for both. I realize that a 6.9 can be safely bored bigger. That was just their policy.
Suddenly
Registered User
Dropped everything off at the shop today, should find out mid week what all needs done.
Been wondering about the piston situation. I have a turbo engine in my truck now, and this is NA. Is it worth pulling the turbo engine to rob it of the turbo pistons/rods? Are the NA and turbo cranks the same? I'll probably need oversized pistons anyway so if I have to buy them is it worth the time to pull the rods out of the other engine?
The build so far I'm looking at head studs and 910 springs. For now rebuilt factory turbo with whatever goodies Justin can add, and a 90cc pump.
Been wondering about the piston situation. I have a turbo engine in my truck now, and this is NA. Is it worth pulling the turbo engine to rob it of the turbo pistons/rods? Are the NA and turbo cranks the same? I'll probably need oversized pistons anyway so if I have to buy them is it worth the time to pull the rods out of the other engine?
The build so far I'm looking at head studs and 910 springs. For now rebuilt factory turbo with whatever goodies Justin can add, and a 90cc pump.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The cranks are balanced differently. The weakest part of the N/A set up is the rods. the pistons will hold up to more boost/power. You can't swap between N/A and Turbo rods and pistons. The N/A rods will hold up to at least 300HP at the wheels. That would be more at the flywheel.
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