S1600 Rebuild

SyicoIDI

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Anyone know the correct torque numbers for the flywheel and Intake manifold I am tired of waiting for my book to be delivered.
 

79jasper

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Just a second.
Okay manual trans is 47ft-lbs. No mention of automatic in my book. Intake 24ft-lbs.
Wait now I see it. Auto is also 47ft-lbs.
 

SyicoIDI

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Nice Jasper now Wrap that manual up in a fed ex box and send it to Rehoboth... lol
 

riotwarrior

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First, way cool project and welcome to OB

Thanks Jasper. That should help me out a little. Called Henry's diesel performance in Westport this morning and they still haven't even looked at my injectors and pump. They wont give me a timetable either. Bah.

Call Mel at Conestoga Diesel 717-806-5561, he Carries the proverbial MOOSE line and builds a fine pump and has injectors and return line kits, he likely has a pump in stock for ya ready to go, he is on this board by name of Agnem

I can ask the shop about using sealant on the freeze plugs. I am not sure if they are stainless because they are painted over. There is a hard gooped substance around the edges of the plugs that looks like some sort of sealant to me. I will ask them but again these guys are not hacks. Their machinist shop was cleaner than my kitchen, and they had more toys than toys R us. I don't believe they lacked to tools to do anything. But it was something i didn't know to ask about so thanks. I will run it by them.

BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR ENGINE, THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL TO CHECK.

THE FREEZE/CORE PLUGS MUST BE IH OR FORD STAINLESS AND INSTALLED WITH SEALANT AND THE CORRECT TOOL

ANY OTHER PLUG OR INSTALL OF CORRECT PLUG WITHOUT THE CORRECT TOOL WILL IN ALL LIKELYHOOD RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC FAILURE COSTING YOU MORE TIME AND $$$$$$$$


This cannot be stressed enough for these engines, MANY here have had issues with these plugs being installed incorrectly. THIS IS AS CRITICAL to these engines as the cleanliness at your engine shop! MAYBE EVEN MORE SO!

Please see this thread here for the plans for the correct tool

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?61348-Freeze-plug-Tool-Plans

You mentioned your shop that you used is a RACE engine shop, no doubt they got's the goods for excellent rebuild no issue there I suspect, but this tool is like the quintessential tool for us for core plug install.

If they did not use the correct core plugs, or tool, I reiterate DO NOT INSTALL that engine and run it. Get the tool and get the correct plug and use a sealant, be it Hylomar, Aviation form a Gasket (elephant snot) or Aviation thread sealant etc.

I cannot stress enough how critical this point is for you if this is a bread and butter earning truck!

JM2CW

Al

EDIT,

FYI this plug is from factory I believe....see that dimple, it's NOT made by a freakin ball pein hammer!
You must be registered for see images attach


Hope this helps you understand what they real plugs should look like

Al

2nd EDIT

Now perfect time to install a couple of petcocks like I'm pointing at too....

Just sayin....

Al
 
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SyicoIDI

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Soo woke up to a blistering 7 degrees this morning. I dont think my tarp is holding much heat it. Heat keeps coming on. At this rate im going to spend all my money on propane.
 

SyicoIDI

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Called shop this morning. They assured propper freeze plug installation. Flat plugs where used which is the special plug for this motor. Plugs where installed with sealent expanded with special tool. Then joe from precision engine told me he also put epoxy on the outside of the plug (The hard stuff I was talking about). He also mentioned that the antifreeze in all diesels causes an electrolysis effect. This eats away at the cylinder wall and yes freeze plugs too. He said that there is a product we can by to slow this process down by adding it to our antifreeze. He also mentioned that the 6.9 and 7.3 where notorious for these types of problems. Anyone know the product we need to add to the antifreeze?
 

6.9poweredscout

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Sca is supplemental coolant additive, same as dca which is diesel coolant additive. You should be able to get that filter from napa or IH with the additive in the filter already.
 

riotwarrior

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Called shop this morning. They assured propper freeze plug installation. Flat plugs where used which is the special plug for this motor. Plugs where installed with sealent expanded with special tool. Then joe from precision engine told me he also put epoxy on the outside of the plug (The hard stuff I was talking about). He also mentioned that the antifreeze in all diesels causes an electrolysis effect. This eats away at the cylinder wall and yes freeze plugs too. He said that there is a product we can by to slow this process down by adding it to our antifreeze. He also mentioned that the 6.9 and 7.3 where notorious for these types of problems. Anyone know the product we need to add to the antifreeze?

Glad to hear that this is the case, you just don't know until you confirm this info.

Now as to the SCA additive, well what he is talking about is not so much electrolysis but Cavitation" There is TONS of info in the FAQ section so please take a few minutes and go to the FAQ's and read up on cavitation the cause and prevention.

6.9's where not prone to this dilemna though 7.3's where because they have thinner wall thickness in the cylinder bores.

There is an additive SCA that can be added to AF to prevent this. One excellent way to manage this is the inclusion of a coolant filter and just changing out the filter with one that has the precharge of correct amount of SCA additive. This does two things, keeps your coolant system in good clean operating condition, and treats coolant accordingly. The coolant filter head and filter from Napa is not that expensive and well worth the investment IMHO.

I hope this helps you out

Al
 

SyicoIDI

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Nice I will check those things out. Short on cash right now, so I will not be buying anything until some of my customers pay their bills. I hate Christmas time, everyone spends all their money and pays their bills come tax return. Happens every year... Anyone know any mafioso freelancers? :backoff
 

hesutton

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Also, the intake has a specific sequence that needs to be followed in order to get a proper seal when being torqued down. Be sure to be generous with sealant on the rear of the valley pan to block mating surfaces. There is very little surface area and easy to get an annoying/nasty oil leak there.

Heath
 

SyicoIDI

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Thanks heath. I will check that out after install since its not that hard to fix once the motor is in. 79Jasper could you check to see what the international book says about clutch install. Could you possibly email this to me or attach a scanned doc.? my book is still not here.
 

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