S1600 Rebuild

[GOOSE]

Well IDk if you heard but the north east is going to get walloped Friday and Saturday. 12- 24" expected. With that in mind I have brought my build into overdrive to get this tuck making e money again. I hate to test the bugs of this build in a blizzard but I need to recoop some losses. Here is where I stand. Pics from phone are in next post.

I hope it reaches South Jersey, I'm ready

edit: rain and 46 deg F. here

 

[SyicoIDI]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Wait how did that last one sneek in there. Danm phone leaking pictures from my most recent visited site again.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

i know idi's are heavy but....

 

[79jasper]

i know idi's are heavy but....

Hahaha Just about pissed myself. :Roflmao:
This just started playing in my head. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTeJwLVWUr8&sns=em

You might get it done faster if you'd leave them biggens alone. Lol

 

[6.9poweredscout]

wonder why IH did the CDR's different on the S series over the ford trucks.....

 

[79jasper]

Jon I had to go back and look at it. The hose actually connects to the drivers side valve cover. You can see the stub in pic #1.
But that is a good question.

 

[SyicoIDI]

You are right the stud was in the drivers side but thats only because the ding dongs messed it up. And mixed up the valve covers.

 

[SyicoIDI]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[SyicoIDI]

 

[SyicoIDI]

wonder why IH did the CDR's different on the S series over the ford trucks.....

I beleive it depended on the year. Earlier models went through the valley pan if I am not mistaken.

 

[hesutton]

Not to add more stuff to your "to do list" ............. but, I'd replace the return lines and caps now. Reusing old ones typically leads to leaks and hard starts.

She is a good looking engine. Man-o-man, there is a ton of room under the hood of that beast.


Heath

 

[SyicoIDI]

Not to add more stuff to your "to do list" ............. but, I'd replace the return lines and caps now. Reusing old ones typically leads to leaks and hard starts.

She is a good looking engine. Man-o-man, there is a ton of room under the hood of that beast.


Heath

It is funny that you say that. Fired up truck today for the first time didn't get her started but man o man leak O rama everything from water to fuel. On the fuel lines I had all kinds of leaks. Under the caps, through the injector threads. ***. I dont think I will be plowing with this truck this storm. But it is probably for the better anyways. Probably not a good idea to have my first test run in 2' of snow and pushing snow for the Town...

Another question, Book says injectors to be torqued to 35 lbs but they still seem to bubble up fuel through threads. What gives? Was I suppose to use some kind
of sealant? I understand the need for new return lines but I don't need new injectors do I?
I want to unload my M1 Garand in this thing right now. I wonder how far into the block it would make it...

 

[GOOSE]

You should be able to get a return line kit at a good parts store, twice the price is what you will pay vs Mel or Russ. The injectors need new copper washers. It will come together quick, stay on it!! Good luck.

 

[79jasper]

Goose has it right.
Needs the copper washer under the injector.
Find where the leaks are coming from.

 

[SyicoIDI]

the injectors all have new copper washers on them, and still leak though. Could the crappy return lines cause this? and stick with the 35lbs torque?