IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The way mine was going last year with all of the snags, it was like fishing in a brier patch!Every project is gonna have a snag you just accept it
Project: The New CDD Shop Truck
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
Update, got a couple hundred miles on the new engine and Im pretty happy with it, with good compression Id say it has another 100ft lbs than the old engine did. Couple things Ive noticed with the new setup, in some of the videos with the last engine you will notice I had a lot of shifting issues, I chucked it up to the untouched zf with almost 300k miles having synchro issues not wanting to shift above 4000 rpms. When I had the engine out I replaced the clutch disk but reused everything else. Driving the truck with the new setup it shifts great, I was doing some more teardown on the IDIT and checked the thrust bearing wear and its about three times more endplay than the factory spec allows, so I think the clutch was just pushing the crank forward and not disengaging completely. Funny how a fresh engine fixes shifting issues. Another thing how much a difference na/idit balance makes. The last setup was with an idit w/ na flywheel and always had a vibration at idle, and I think that may have been a contributor to the thrust bearing wear. I ended up resetting the BB codes that came with this engine and running them, big difference in fuel than the 3m injectors, but egts are very manageable. With the timing set at 8.5* egts wont exceed 800* at 15 psi. Good bit less top end power with this fuel setup, could also be that the last engine was fully ported, but either way Id like more. I may build a 130cc for this truck and eventually upgrade to one of my 62-1/T350 upgraded stock turbos which would be a great match for that fuel, but its got me eyeing the 150cc pump I have on the shelf and wanting to see what it would do on a this turbo.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Sweet results, I have EGT envy! Did you do anything to the turbo? I tried to read back but didnt see anything in the last few pages, sorry if I missed it.
You mentioned smoother shifting, and I noticed it in the video right away before you even said anything-- for a ZF, those are super smooth and quick. It reminded me how bad mine is, doh! One more project someday.
Lookin good! I love the saga of this rig.
You mentioned smoother shifting, and I noticed it in the video right away before you even said anything-- for a ZF, those are super smooth and quick. It reminded me how bad mine is, doh! One more project someday.
Lookin good! I love the saga of this rig.
Still the stock turbo as it came from the junkyard over a year ago, no filter for about 60k miles either, egt control comes down to having solid fuel pressure and just dialing things in with the injection pump. Good compression and tame injectors really help as well.
So counting up total costs for this new setup:
-1988 7.3 na, bought the whole truck for $450, I could easily sell the truck for what I paid for it, so lets call that a wash.
-head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, valley pan, intake hat gasket, CDD pyro bung return line kit and thermostat $145
-replacement clutch disk $105 shipped
-pump and injectors came on this engine, $35 reseal kit for the db2
-ARP ultra torque lube $25
Comes out to a total of $310 into this engine, Ive got a good amount of time in it, but for doing something on the cheap its not bad. Obviously I already had the turbo kit and studs to reuse, and most people wouldnt be doing pump and injector work themselves, but as far as engine work theres nothing here that the average joe with a good torque wrench couldnt do in their own garage.
-1988 7.3 na, bought the whole truck for $450, I could easily sell the truck for what I paid for it, so lets call that a wash.
-head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, valley pan, intake hat gasket, CDD pyro bung return line kit and thermostat $145
-replacement clutch disk $105 shipped
-pump and injectors came on this engine, $35 reseal kit for the db2
-ARP ultra torque lube $25
Comes out to a total of $310 into this engine, Ive got a good amount of time in it, but for doing something on the cheap its not bad. Obviously I already had the turbo kit and studs to reuse, and most people wouldnt be doing pump and injector work themselves, but as far as engine work theres nothing here that the average joe with a good torque wrench couldnt do in their own garage.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Wow that's impressive! I'm just finally dialing in my timing after years of Facet pump, timing didnt matter too much, ran like crap on 8*, etc. Moved it around till it felt best.
So, truck has been doing great, I installed one of my coolant filters kits on it this morning to work on clearing up the rest of the rust in the block and did a bit of maintenance changing fuel filters and the first oil change. I built a 150cc peak/135cc @3000 pump that will be going on the truck either early tomorrow morning or this weekend, this little tweaked stock pump runs great with stock injectors but I’d really like to have more fuel. I’m going to add another bung for my drive pressure gauge and see how hard I can push the stock turbo, I would be very happy with the truck with the 150 pump and one of my 62-1/t350 turbo that would probably add a good 100-150hp from where it’s at now, just perfect for a fun street truck and great tow vehicle.
YJMike92
Full Access Member
Sounds interesting. I know you will keep us posted.
Well, got the big pump on and wow, it’s about as fast as it was on nitrous with the maxed out stock ip with just fuel only now. New issue is I found the limit of what the 105p can support power wise, it drops fuel pressure so bad it won’t even rev past 3500 at wot, but it will bury the tach in neutral so I know the governor is set fine. Pretty much out of air as well, the stock turbo is way out of its efficiency range now, but still lays rubber to about 50 if you try, but fuel and power drops off fast past 2700 rpms. Pretty excited to see how it does once fuel delivery isn’t an issue.
Until the new lift pump shows up, I turned the pump down a bit, lowered my inlet pressure to 5 psi, installed an unmodified return fitting and changed my primary fuel filter to a 32 micron rating, secondary filter is still 2 micron. With those adjustments I was able to cheat a bit more flow to the injection pump and able to maintain some positive pressure up to 3100 rpms. The result was a much better top end and less smoke overal, fuel is still dropping off above 3k noticeably but it’s a big improvement over where it started, lots of power on tap and all the regular driving is done with just a couple mm of input on the gas pedal. Makes the engine feel very responsive when you run these bigger pumps when you have so much fuel on tap. It’s an absolute riot to drive, and I think with a better turbo would be a 14 second truck, it’s definitely in the 15s as it is now, it beats up on some pretty quick cars getting up to about 90 where the weight takes over and fuel starts to drop off.
In a separate note, my cheap champion rad has failed me. Going at a high rate of speed I went over a big patch in the highway and it broke the brackets that bolt to the core support loose. It didn’t tear them down to the bottom bolt hole but luckily with no fan there’s no damage to the actual radiator. I’ve got it temporarily fixed, but I’ll probably just buy another one and fix this as a spare.
I did take some pics of the coolant filter doing work cleaning up the rust and crud in the block
In a separate note, my cheap champion rad has failed me. Going at a high rate of speed I went over a big patch in the highway and it broke the brackets that bolt to the core support loose. It didn’t tear them down to the bottom bolt hole but luckily with no fan there’s no damage to the actual radiator. I’ve got it temporarily fixed, but I’ll probably just buy another one and fix this as a spare.
I did take some pics of the coolant filter doing work cleaning up the rust and crud in the block
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
And I'll bet that you do try too.
https://www.facebook.com/528663397623078/posts/584675198688564?sfns=mo
Uploaded a little clip of how responsive this pump is, and how perfectly the governor cuts fuel to bring it back to idle with no droop or drag, not easy to do when you’re delivery almost triple stock fuel. Going to try and get a buddy who has a go pro to help me out with some videos of the new setup on the road, I wish I could take more people for rides in it, it changes what most people think is possible with an idi. Egts are very manigable even with the leaking intercooler, I can go from cruising speed at 45 to the speedo past pegged before it gets above 1000*, I’m really wanting to get some video of it pulling some weight up I-10’s 6% hills, I think it would cruise control 85 no problem even with the 38’ Avion, at this much power I don’t think the clutch may hold it though, deeper down the rabbit hole.
jwsfarrier
Full Access Member
That is frickin cool stuff. Looking forward to the video!
Here’s a tug going 65-120, on a safe Mexican highway driven by the Mexican stig. sorry for the weird angle, but wanted to get the pyro in frame.
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@Thewespaul nice progress and been thinking to my self what the speed over 85 looked like, 120 wow makes me want to save more for a project truck.
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