Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

Ferd_Diesel

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This was with my 93 Single Cab Long Bed. Factory turbo kit e4od. Na pump turned up not maxed. Wastegate just unplugged. Big boost leak. Couldn't get the rear tires to not spin on line. Rear breaks were going. Buddy was in other lane with a 06 Megacab 5.9 with some generic stuff done. Even with not being able to load it up and launch hard I would always put 60ft him. Think it would have went 17s if I could have launched it. Want to get it back together and out again with my 90cc pump,new injectors, times, and have fixed the breaks. Should go 16s

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Hard to believe that OBS 7.3 PSD was only running 17s
 

Thewespaul

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This was with my 93 Single Cab Long Bed. Factory turbo kit e4od. Na pump turned up not maxed. Wastegate just unplugged. Big boost leak. Couldn't get the rear tires to not spin on line. Rear breaks were going. Buddy was in other lane with a 06 Megacab 5.9 with some generic stuff done. Even with not being able to load it up and launch hard I would always put 60ft him. Think it would have went 17s if I could have launched it. Want to get it back together and out again with my 90cc pump,new injectors, times, and have fixed the breaks. Should go 16s

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How much boost were you getting on that pass? Looks like you really lost steam on the back half, maybe the continuous full throttle started to drop your fuel pressure and make you slowly lose power, you only picked up 13mph from the 1/8th to the 1/4 over 7 seconds, compared to the first half which looked good. If you had held the same power throughout the pass it should have been at least a 17.8 @ 75, so that is something to possibly look into. When you were spinning, did you get any hopping? If you do, some traction bars would likely really help bring that 60ft time down, and with street tires tuning your tire pressure between 45-30 psi should help you get a sub 2 second 60ft, which would easily knock off a second from your time. If you dont already, you can do the lockup mod to give yourself manual lockup, which should help you put more power down in second.

I dug up some old time slips from over a year ago when I had just put in the IDIT and was fighting some boost leaks as well, I think this was about 12 psi non intercooled. Best time was 17.1 @80 with a 2.1 60ft, which I wasnt launching it just easing into the clutch in first gear.
 

Ferd_Diesel

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How much boost were you getting on that pass? Looks like you really lost steam on the back half, maybe the continuous full throttle started to drop your fuel pressure and make you slowly lose power, you only picked up 13mph from the 1/8th to the 1/4 over 7 seconds, compared to the first half which looked good. If you had held the same power throughout the pass it should have been at least a 17.8 @ 75, so that is something to possibly look into. When you were spinning, did you get any hopping? If you do, some traction bars would likely really help bring that 60ft time down, and with street tires tuning your tire pressure between 45-30 psi should help you get a sub 2 second 60ft, which would easily knock off a second from your time. If you dont already, you can do the lockup mod to give yourself manual lockup, which should help you put more power down in second.

I dug up some old time slips from over a year ago when I had just put in the IDIT and was fighting some boost leaks as well, I think this was about 12 psi non intercooled. Best time was 17.1 @80 with a 2.1 60ft, which I wasnt launching it just easing into the clutch in first gear.

I believe it was something like 12 pounds. It was a spur of the moment thing. Used to get in for free cause my buddy lived so close but had to pay so we turned around and got our trucks. Couldn't get a bolt to stay in WG Hose so that was a big boost leak. I think a part of why it bottoms ends so low is that it's got 4.10s LSD. Even NA it got out of it's own way and beat some OBS PSD on the street. Not to bad of hop. One pass I got it. Being auto helps with hop drastically. Itd ve a whole different experience of I could get it back together and go again. Want to beat a 17.7. My first car was a 95 Centurty and ran a consistent 17.7. Been a good bracket car lol
 

Thewespaul

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Got the gsl392 installed. Wasn’t able to get the fuel pressure where I wanted it without having a bypass regulator on this truck, it has the non bypass model on it now so I could only get it down to about 12 psi, but I readjusted the torque screw to give full fueling again, and took it for a test drive. Ton more power than before, but a bit laggier with such advanced timing. Before I took it for a test drive I put a bottle in it just for S&G, here’s a clip roasting the tires from a roll in 4th, first time spraying this engine too.

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Oledirtypearl86

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Got the gsl392 installed. Wasn’t able to get the fuel pressure where I wanted it without having a bypass regulator on this truck, it has the non bypass model on it now so I could only get it down to about 12 psi, but I readjusted the torque screw to give full fueling again, and took it for a test drive. Ton more power than before, but a bit laggier with such advanced timing. Before I took it for a test drive I put a bottle in it just for S&G, here’s a clip roasting the tires from a roll in 4th, first time spraying this engine too.

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That's a hell of an good pull
 

IDIBRONCO

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Got the gsl392 installed. Wasn’t able to get the fuel pressure where I wanted it without having a bypass regulator on this truck, it has the non bypass model on it now so I could only get it down to about 12 psi, but I readjusted the torque screw to give full fueling again, and took it for a test drive. Ton more power than before, but a bit laggier with such advanced timing. Before I took it for a test drive I put a bottle in it just for S&G, here’s a clip roasting the tires from a roll in 4th, first time spraying this engine too.

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Those Federalies must have your picture posted in every station as often as you're down in Mexico raising hell!:angel:
 

Ferd_Diesel

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I know you like your stick shifts and all and I do too but this thing would be nasty with a built e4od/4r100 and aftermarket Trans controller. Good work as always Wes. Get that power to the ground
 

Thewespaul

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Thanks man, I know with an auto it would probably be at least a second quicker et, and it could use a lot more power but this truck isn’t going to get much more power than this since it’s mostly aimed at a fun/cheap daily driver. I’ll finish up the upgrades to the fuel system and install my drop in T04Z turbo then dyno it and this project should be pretty much done and I can focus more on the race truck, which will have a slushbox and go much faster. And I’ll admit, if I’m going to go after the idi hp record it’s going to be a lot easier to do it now before there’s p pump conversions, then it will just be a game of money at that point.

I got a bypass regulator installed today and have been really pleased. I can feel the timing staying steady throughout the curve and it pulls full power past 4000 if I try.

I did get a drive pressure gauge installed, I made one pull today and saw over 30 psi, my boost gauge quit as soon as I installed the drive pressure gauge the boost gauge stuck at 8 psi. Got another on the way as well as another fuel pressure gauge. The new pump when I first installed it pegged the gauge and wound it more than it was designed so it wasn’t reading right either.
 

Fordman1920032003

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Thanks man, I know with an auto it would probably be at least a second quicker et, and it could use a lot more power but this truck isn’t going to get much more power than this since it’s mostly aimed at a fun/cheap daily driver. I’ll finish up the upgrades to the fuel system and install my drop in T04Z turbo then dyno it and this project should be pretty much done and I can focus more on the race truck, which will have a slushbox and go much faster. And I’ll admit, if I’m going to go after the idi hp record it’s going to be a lot easier to do it now before there’s p pump conversions, then it will just be a game of money at that point.

I got a bypass regulator installed today and have been really pleased. I can feel the timing staying steady throughout the curve and it pulls full power past 4000 if I try.

I did get a drive pressure gauge installed, I made one pull today and saw over 30 psi, my boost gauge quit as soon as I installed the drive pressure gauge the boost gauge stuck at 8 psi. Got another on the way as well as another fuel pressure gauge. The new pump when I first installed it pegged the gauge and wound it more than it was designed so it wasn’t reading right either.
Do you use the boost reference port on the bypass regulator?
 

Thewespaul

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Good question, with the Holley 12-803BP regulator this is no boost reference, and with a DB2 its not needed since fuel pressure isnt being directly acted against intake pressure, since the inlet pressure is brought up to a high pressure injection pressure to pop open the injectors, with over 3000 psi peak injection pressure the pump wont even notice boost pressure, and with the hydraulic advance curve these pumps have you really just want a steady inlet feed pressure that doesnt change from idle to 4000 rpms at wot. If it changes even a few psi, it will affect your timing curve.
 

Ferd_Diesel

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Thanks man, I know with an auto it would probably be at least a second quicker et, and it could use a lot more power but this truck isn’t going to get much more power than this since it’s mostly aimed at a fun/cheap daily driver. I’ll finish up the upgrades to the fuel system and install my drop in T04Z turbo then dyno it and this project should be pretty much done and I can focus more on the race truck, which will have a slushbox and go much faster. And I’ll admit, if I’m going to go after the idi hp record it’s going to be a lot easier to do it now before there’s p pump conversions, then it will just be a game of money at that point.

I got a bypass regulator installed today and have been really pleased. I can feel the timing staying steady throughout the curve and it pulls full power past 4000 if I try.

I did get a drive pressure gauge installed, I made one pull today and saw over 30 psi, my boost gauge quit as soon as I installed the drive pressure gauge the boost gauge stuck at 8 psi. Got another on the way as well as another fuel pressure gauge. The new pump when I first installed it pegged the gauge and wound it more than it was designed so it wasn’t reading right either.

Glad your going this route with the build. I think that's why I like this thread so much. Basically same direction I want to go with my 93 except zf5 and now . Let you find the kinks and see your resultd.
 

Thewespaul

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Truck night test n tune at SA motorplex was a good time tonight, only got two passes in, and it was a no time event since it was only testing, but according to the gps the truck did a 14.8 at 92 mph, and walked right past a 2nd gen Cummins with an s369, injectors and delivery valves that was 4wd launching. He wasn’t happy about that loss and we met up in Mexico, where he got a repeat defeat with a jump. I can’t get over how well this truck is doing on just a junkyard engine, reused studs, an intercooler and just fuel upgrades. Walking past the other truck in Mexico above 130, I saw over 40 psi of back pressure, but the little turbo is still holding in there. Felt great to get the truck out after feeling cooped up with the lung issues this last month, really looking forward to being fully caught up and can get this thing on the dyno to see what it will do.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Haha that's awesome, glad to hear you're feeling much better and things are running good with your shop rig!

How far out can you wind that baby up? You've got to be just about out of gears by 130mph! I guess I can do an estimated 120mph with my 3.55 and stock tires, dunno my speedo was buried straight down and I had more to go if I wanted but not much more.
 
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