Project Big Red

laserjock

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Thanks! It’s been a long and tortured journey.

With a lot of nickel and dime stuff along the way and a new bed and the reman long block, I’m probably close to double the original goal.

[emoji15]

I did put that back in. Not much change.

Running hot is somewhat to be expected with the IDI because of the combustion chamber design. It’s just going to shed heat into the head. I don’t think it’s insurmountable though. I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve. Hopefully you’ll see those soon if I can get them together.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Porting doesn't really help with engine coolant temps. Wes says that it does help to lower EGTs so it's not completely useless. I still think that my N/A 7.3 runs better after I ported the heads. I really had no trouble keeping up with the Texas traffic that people say is so awful without a turbo.
 

laserjock

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It’s been said these heads actually flow pretty well. The design of the pre-cup is what causes the heat shed in the head. Most direct injected engines have the combustion happening mainly in the cylinder and top of the piston.

The other thing is that unless the heads are horrendous, boost will cure many ills. If it won’t go on its own force it.
 

laserjock

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Trying to be optimistic and getting ready for camping season. One major problem was that the little one is about to outgrow his boosters. I put shoulder belts in the back a long while back. The problem now is that with no headrest, if we got rear ended hard, he might break the back glass with his head. So I started looking at options. I took the rear seat pad off to see what I had to work with.

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On closer inspection, the ribs are about 1/2” thick. So I started a plan to build in head rests.

I needed some 1/2” square steel and some measurements. I found some nice pads and from them decided how big to make the hoop (6” wide). Then I cut the ribs out of the pan (it’s double thickness) and fit it up.
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You can’t just fit the hoop straight to the seat pan because the back of the cab slopes forward. After some measurements, I bent the bars enough to give me about an inch between the glass and the headrest. Then did a test fit.

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continued.
 

laserjock

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I plasma cut out a mount plate for the head rest pad and welded that all up.

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Then I added a seat belt guid to improve the shoulder belt angle just a bit.
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and test fit the pad. Duplicated it for the other side and welded it all together.

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With that all done I gave it a shot of primer and paint. I also added some rubber feet on the back of the seat pan to keep it from flexing back just from the seat bowing. Head rests on for the last time and the finished product.
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I pretty happy with how it came out. It’s a good spot for him to grow into. I can actually sit in the seat and the head rest work for me as does the belt guide so I call it a win. Good enough to get us by for a while.
 

mexicanjoe

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I glued a small headrest to the back window of my supercab '89, right behind where "little briches" sits. Not much in a way of a whiplash protection but its better than nothing. I placed some velcro on the glass itself then positioned the actual (homemade) headrest in the correct orientation and now mama is happy her little girl has a headrest.......
 

laserjock

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Tonight I did something I’ve been meaning to do for a while. I added some auxiliary power. I had previously added a high current solenoid solenoid to be able to turn the power on and off for the aux as well as the spare tire winch. I didn’t take a ton of pictures but I ran the cable up through the passenger tail light. Wrapped it in wire loom. The solenoid is on the back of the bumper behind the license plate. That is all in this thread a while back.
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Then I put an Anderson connector on the other end. I put the mating connector on the winch. I’ll make another set with clamps for jumping and charging purposes.

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Now I’m set up for a bigger winch when I pick up a bigger trailer.
 

cre1992

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Thanks! It’s been a long and tortured journey.

With a lot of nickel and dime stuff along the way and a new bed and the reman long block, I’m probably close to double the original goal.

[emoji15]

This is a hell of a build. Very impressive.

Question in reference the clutch line from the slave to the master cylinder. Do you happen to remember what metal line you used? I'm swapping a ZF5 into my bricknose and would like to replace the cheap shoddy looking plastic line with a metal one.
I must have looked through 25 pages on this thread and cant find the post in regards to it. But I remember reading it when I read this whole thread a month or so back. :***::frustrate
 

chillman88

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This is a hell of a build. Very impressive.

Question in reference the clutch line from the slave to the master cylinder. Do you happen to remember what metal line you used? I'm swapping a ZF5 into my bricknose and would like to replace the cheap shoddy looking plastic line with a metal one.
I must have looked through 25 pages on this thread and cant find the post in regards to it. But I remember reading it when I read this whole thread a month or so back. :***::frustrate

I'm not sure what he used, but Russ @typ4 has them on his website

Russrepair.com
 

laserjock

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This is a hell of a build. Very impressive.

Question in reference the clutch line from the slave to the master cylinder. Do you happen to remember what metal line you used? I'm swapping a ZF5 into my bricknose and would like to replace the cheap shoddy looking plastic line with a metal one.
I must have looked through 25 pages on this thread and cant find the post in regards to it. But I remember reading it when I read this whole thread a month or so back. :***::frustrate
I want to say it was actually for an F superduty. I think it was for 92-97 as well. I looked for a picture but I don’t think I’ve got one of the part number handy.
 
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