Project Big Red

[tbrumm]

So I have a couple things to address. Thought I'd lay them out so maybe I won't forget and I can start pregaming things a bit.

Injector orings. Should I change them? I bought injectors from Russ and they came with what looks like viton o-rings. With 1500 miles do I change them or just put the return caps back on with lots of lube?

Russ provides Viton o-rings with the injectors he sells. Even though the o-rings are Viton and haven't been on the truck very long, I would still change them as they haven been subjected to numerous heat/cool cycles. You might get away with it, but the o-rings are cheap so why chance it, especially since it will be easy to change them when you reassemble the fuel system. I bought a bunch of Viton o-rings from McMaster-Carr (size 111 IIRC) just to have them on hand if I disturb caps while working on the engine. Your new hose between the injectors should probably still be okay. I know people use different kind of lube on the o-rings, with the most popular being Vaseline or di-electric grease. I like a product called "SuperLube" that I buy at the local Ace Hardware. It comes in gray tube about 6" long and is a synthetic grease, and it seems to work great.

 

[laserjock]

Got a call from Promar today. Not the valve issue they thought. Intake valves into the pistons. The problem theyvhad was with the exhaust valves. They installed the stock cam and are reassembling. Should ship tomorrow. So either they ignored my warning and measurements I sent them on the cam or the cam had more lift than it was supposed to. Based on the reaction I got when I reminded them I gave them the lift specs, I'm going to say they didn't check anything and just put it together. I'm getting the cam back with it so I'll have it to check. So long as I don't get a bill with it, I guess I'll be okay.

I do have a question for the masses. Could the valve contact cause the valve float I experienced? I can come up with scenarios where it might but I'd like to hear from the collective.

I also got a call from Redhead. They are shipping me another steering gear tomorrow.

So things are going to start happening again.

Last night I started cleaning off silicone. Have I mentioned how much I hate scraping off gaskets??


In a completely unrelated issue. Can anyone confirm the size of a standard leaf spring bolt head? I need to be able to make the locator pins for my spring blocks and drill the right size hole for the spring bolt head to locate in. I can't find my good 2" blocks to measure and I'd like to make the blocks and then just swap the blocks so the truck isn't immobile for a long period of time. I think it's 1/2" but if I could get confirmation I'd appreciate it.

 

[tbrumm]

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/comp-910-valve-spring-questions-and-installation.79077/

Mike, have you seen this thread pertaining to the torque cam? I thought long and hard about installing one when I redid the heads on my truck last year, but I am glad I didn't. Not that the cam itself is the sole cause of the problems, but the tight tolerances on these engines seems to make installation of the torque cam not necessarily a "drop in" operation. After researching, I decided that my knowledge of valve train geometry was insufficient to make sure the cam was going to work in my engine without issue, so I left the stock cam in. Heck, I freaked out when I found out that the shop I took my heads to had to remove 0.007" from the surface of the right head because one pre-cup hole had been cut too deep from the factory and pre-cup was recessed too far below the surface of the head. I was already worried about the tolerances stacking up and didn't need the extra lift of the torque cam added to that. The bigger problem with the torque cam is that the shops that should understand the valve train geometry, and have the equipment and knowledge to make the measurements required to ensure the torque cam is set up properly, can't seem to do it (or won't take the time to do it). It seems many shops don't even understand the tight tolerances associated with these engines to begin with. Promar had better not send you a bill. If they can't measure and don't have the knowledge to install the cam properly and ensure it will work, they shouldn't be doing the work and should have told you that at the start. Sorry, I can't help you with your question about the valve float, but I am learning more about vale train geometry all the time!

 

[bbjordan]

Could the valve contact cause the valve float I experienced?

Valve contact wouldn't cause valve float. More like the other way around. Valve float leads to valve contact. Especially with the exhaust valve. Too steep a descending ramp on the cam and/or inadequate valve spring pressure can cause the valve train to go "ski jumping" over the nose of the cam lobe. When the valve spring pressure cannot overcome the inertia of the valve train, and the pressure on the lifter becomes lower than the oil pressure in the lifter, the lifter pumps up.

The stock cam closes the exhaust valve approx. 5 degrees before the piston reaches TDC.
If the valve hangs open a bit longer when the piston is coming up...bing ding ow.

In this case, both exhaust and intake pushrods were bent leading me to believe that this may not be valve float, but inadequate clearance between the valve and piston.

There could be two issues going on here: inadequate clearance and valve float.

 

[laserjock]

Engine is in its way back.

 

[88 Ford]

I don't remember, but do you have Comp 910 valve springs? If so, did they shim them properly?

 

[laserjock]

I have them. I don't know if they shimmed them properly.

 

[F350camper]

So when this thing comes back do you have a lists of things to check? Or are the things you would like to check un-checkable?

 

[laserjock]

I'm pondering checking the spring heights. The couple I measured were in the ballpark. Russ said they should be okay but they were longer than the 1.8" spec I keep seeing.

I'd love to see if they changed pistons. I suppose I could ask that. Since it's a new stock cam, I guess there's not much to check there. I will certainly roll it over a few times. I swore I could hear the pistons hit the valves on a couple cylinders. There was an audible click.

 

[88 Ford]

I'm pondering checking the spring heights. The couple I measured were in the ballpark. Russ said they should be okay but they were longer than the 1.8" spec I keep seeing.

I'd love to see if they changed pistons. I suppose I could ask that. Since it's a new stock cam, I guess there's not much to check there. I will certainly roll it over a few times. I swore I could hear the pistons hit the valves on a couple cylinders. There was an audible click.

Spring height might have been alright if they didn't shim but what about seat pressure? That's what I was getting at. I would definitely shim them to increase the pressure for piece of mind with the Typ4 cam. I was worried about this when doing my friend's Typ4 cam install.

 

[laserjock]

It has a stock cam now. Not taking any chances this time. The cam may be perfectly fine but I'll make 100% sure before it goes in another motor.

 

[IDIoit]

It has a stock cam now. Not taking any chances this time. The cam may be perfectly fine but I'll make 100% sure before it goes in another motor.

a .012 shave on the top of the slugs should be perfect.
this is my plan with the engine im building for the torque cam

 

[laserjock]

Yeah, it's too complicated to take a chance with promar doing it for me at this point. When I build my other engine, it will likely go in it.

 

[laserjock]

So I did one useful thing today besides mowing grass. I fixed the floppy trim on my front bumper. My new impact is da bomb. I don't know how I lived without it. I had the bumper apart in the time it would have taken me to get one nut off one bolt by hand with a ratchet.

 

[88 Ford]

a .012 shave on the top of the slugs should be perfect.
this is my plan with the engine im building for the torque cam

Nice! My buddy's truck feels like a torque monster with the RD150 and the Typ4 cam! The RD150 has 209cc at 1000 rpm so he is going to get a Smoke Puff Limiter to take away some of the fuel on the bottom end so it will be easier on his NA rods bur thus far it has been pretty fun. Still working out the bugs though. Lol