My Big Blue Ox build....

riotwarrior

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Well I have the blue super cab on the road and so far seems ok.

Chicken wing front axle is fonging craptastic. Thus yesterday I began pulling the KP D60 from the White Rhino.

The bad....D60 is 4.10 and the SC is 3.55 LS rear. Doh-cuss

That is ok in the end az I have been doing some checking...it appears that the C6 and 31 tyres and 3.55 run at about 2500 rpm vs 2900 for 4.11

Add a ZF hand shaker instead of juice box...that drops to 2200 +- a bit in 5th. Well worth the effort IMHO.

Toss on a set of Michelan XL's in 11.00 x 16 which are about 38" tall and well...you are getting the picture.

So I will continue to get the 60 ready to swap and a zf as well. Then take it all to buddies shop and roll in on friday nite and be done hopefully by sunday afternoon with the swap.

While I work on the swap I may get him to begin slme body work on lower cab section of sc.

Pics to come shortly...

Damn I like is truck!!!!

Thanks for looking
 

riotwarrior

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Where you gonna get those? I was under the impression the supplies dried out like over a year ago...

Got connections lol

D60 is fully ready to pull now. It will be setup and between this one and the other one I hqve I will build one good locked D60 and have it ready to slap under my truck rt quick.

Then swap out rear for a 4.10 ration and 1 ton springs and blocks...

Will leave the zf swap maybe for when I have the other 7.3 studded cammed and ready to install.

Should be pretty smart.

Thanks for looking...pics coming
 

IDIoit

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pics or it didnt happen LOL, can you upload them to mars for me?
i dont like internet pictures.
 

riotwarrior

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Locked? How? Ever had the joys of driving an auto-locker front on slippery roads? This would be the one application I'd prefer a tight LSD for...

Lunch box....


Engage one lockout hub if u got concerns...

Truck will have two lunch boxes ...one in front one in rear....ifn hqd $$$ would get a true trac or an E or air locker...buy what I can afford and use it till need move on.

Got chains for all 4 tyres too btw.
 

laserjock

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Chained and locked with those XL's it would take some snow to stop it. [emoji300]️[emoji300]️[emoji300]️
 

riotwarrior

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Right now four chains for my Toyo M55 255 x 85 x 16's only...may make a second set for 11:00's once they are here.

Yesterday it was undone...today it was removed
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That was done first.

Then I undid rear diff and all acoutraments lol and now it is sitti g waiting for another tractor to stop by and lift frame to roll out the rear diff.

The 60 is for this...look close at the left front wheels angle..wh6 repai a dead horse when got a good 60 to swap in

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Here are a couple of close ups of that gp setup, which is on an aluminum plate bolted to the intake.

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Here is a close up of the crimp/heat shrink bullet end I used...these are awesome
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Here is the package the above connectors come in 0.157" size.....hope this helps yall out locating said bullets.

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Oh the Ramsey RE 12,000 lb winch too

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Thats nuff for today...tired and not well...

Thanks for looking
 
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LCAM-01XA

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Got the remote pendant for that RE too? Also do yourself a favor and pop the solenoids cover off while it's accessible and redo the wiring under it with ring-terminals that have the hot glue inside them, also replace any and all hardware with stainless steel. We didn't do that cause she worked fine so we just bolted the thing in place, too late now to do the stainless upgrades cause she's so jammed in that bumper it will take a whole day just to get the thing disassembled enough to access the bolts for the solenoids cover... Make it easy on yourself and learn from our mistakes. Also use this opportunity to set the winch up for in-cab controls, this way you don't have to have a window down to run the pendant in the cab on a lousy-weather day.

Oh and by the way, just so you know what to expect, if you use this thing to recover other vehicles or just drag heavy stuff out of somewhere, the only way that will happen is to put the truck in 4x4 and set the parking brake hard - if your front axle isn't locked in the truck WILL skid forward when the RE starts doing its thing, heck on dirt or other loose terrain we've more than once had to use an anchor of some sorts after all six wheels skidded :D This without a snatch block, just direct pull on the 2nd layer of the drum cable. Yup, screw-drives are awesome like that :D
 

riotwarrior

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Got the remote pendant for that RE too? Also do yourself a favor and pop the solenoids cover off while it's accessible and redo the wiring under it with ring-terminals that have the hot glue inside them, also replace any and all hardware with stainless steel. We didn't do that cause she worked fine so we just bolted the thing in place, too late now to do the stainless upgrades cause she's so jammed in that bumper it will take a whole day just to get the thing disassembled enough to access the bolts for the solenoids cover... Make it easy on yourself and learn from our mistakes. Also use this opportunity to set the winch up for in-cab controls, this way you don't have to have a window down to run the pendant in the cab on a lousy-weather day.

Oh and by the way, just so you know what to expect, if you use this thing to recover other vehicles or just drag heavy stuff out of somewhere, the only way that will happen is to put the truck in 4x4 and set the parking brake hard - if your front axle isn't locked in the truck WILL skid forward when the RE starts doing its thing, heck on dirt or other loose terrain we've more than once had to use an anchor of some sorts after all six wheels skidded :D This without a snatch block, just direct pull on the 2nd layer of the drum cable. Yup, screw-drives are awesome like that :D

Thanks for the hardware tip...figur 50 bucks for what ya see was steal...tested moved drum lol.

Not my first RE got 8k was on front before.

The 12 will likely be tagged to rear of frame n bigger physically 10 k pto fpr front.

Got any links to hardware you describe?

As for wiring....u shittin me....me leave well nuff alone....crap I run 2 ga to gp controler...come on man...should know me better n that by now....Overkill Al here.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yeah you got lucky alright, add a zero behind your cost and you get ours. But on the flip side it came with front and side plates and a rear cross-bar plus a fairlead and enough 00 cables to reach the battery...

The wiring mods, well it was just an idea, it's pretty amazing how often people forget to do things that should seem only natural.

The hardware, there's no specific kit, just start replacing every steel nut and bolt that you find with stainless. I suppose brass would also work, but stainless doesn't corrode whereas yellow metals do given the right conditions, so stainless would be the better choice for the application IMHO.
 

riotwarrior

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Bl9ody hell...went to swap in the nice Seats from the 90 F250...matching colour just slightly different seat....well so are the seat mounts...now I have to redrill holes for new seat mounts....bloddy hell this PMO ...oh well seats are mint and worth swapping and doing it right.

As the truck that they came out of smells like rat **** I will steam the seats prior to install.

Going to remove zf trans tunnel cover too and iprep for a hand shaker soon. Might even do this before front axle actually as it will reap more benefits.

Lots of work going on and pretty much on my own except for bigger stuff where Bria comes by with tractor etc...to lift.

Going to measure the drive shafts tomorrow and compare zf shafts to C6...hope same and no need for swap...but if same will grab the spare and choose best one and add new u joints to be golden.

Lots to do and really enjoy having a diesel again....

Tha nks for looking

Al
 

riotwarrior

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Went for drive yesterday...pushed it few times uphill..

Did not notice fan come on but did notic check engine lite...doh...no real temp gauge yet.

So...could be dirty rad core or...could be bad fan clutch...not to worry got rads n clutches out the p00per so to speak.

Me also has ABS light on....not gotten round to remove n replace sender yet...only hqve a few to go remove to test with lol.

So have decided to begin swapping IN parts for ZF swap. When I do I'll begin by removing front bucket seats and console rolling back carpet and seeing how the newer model seats fit the pan. If the brackets fit I will mark and drill holes then add support under floor as needed. Relay carpet back down..poke holes up from below and bolt seats in place.

While carpet rolled back...swap trans tunnel covers too...cut hole i carpet for shifter and then block it off mount fire extinguisher!!!!!!!!!

Pedals next and Hydro boost a d clutch master and slave...leave clutch MC disconnected from pedal but have it installed!!!!



Bout it fer now.

Thanks fer lookin
 

ISELLTRUX

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I replaced my front buckets with seats from a '95 and I think we were able to remove the pedestal from the original seats and mount them on the new ones.
 

riotwarrior

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Attempted to swap seat frqmes...no can do simpley..bummer.

Drilled 3 holes on drivers side and likely will be 4 on pass side...soon to come!

Just hammering away at the stuff I can right now.

Still thinking ZF and ASAP along with the D60 so I can get rpm down.

Looking at some blue auto carpet tomorrow mit get 15 bucks worth n carpet back and bottom of the SC rear fold down seat as my dog is sliding all over the place when I drive. It would be best get her little more solidly seated.

Well my Neice shipped me one of these and I recieved it today

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=852/prd852.htm

Should work well for my needs. I am thinking of how to controll 2 x 2speed fa s with it and have an idea or two pun i tended.

Forgot to measure zf and c6 zhafts today doh.

Well thanks for looking
 

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