Let's Talk Intercoolers

[idiabuse]

prepare factory turbo/ats hat for intercooler pipe,the low restive way guys.got it figured out.

buy a 2 1/8 ID exhaust pipe to fit inside.i used a 2 1/8 id x 2 1/8 OD.
im running 2 1/4 pipe and my 2 1/4 coupler fits right over it very snugly.
using a 1/2" drill bit,i was able to very,very easily and quickly hone the inside of the hat out just a tad bit for the pipe to slide in using grease on the fitting,and gently tapping into the hat with a hammer.gently now.if still snug,ream it out a little more with the drill.it doesn't take much.i went for like 30 seconds.you don't want it so tight that you crack the housing.very careful.ditch that 0-ring,and be sure to ream out the second collar past where the o-ring sits.you want the pipe to slide in past that groove so there is no unnecessary air turbulence.
be sure to wash it all out now.you don't want those metal shavings going down the intake!

now just seal it up using some high temp muffler dope around the outer rim.i still need to do this now.she's so snug im not sure if it would ever leak,but im gunna make sure.this can be a permanent connection.
of course it "should" be cool air coming in here from the cooler,but it's not like the high temp sealer cost an arm and a leg compared to something else.
the reducer and exhaust dope was just found at the local autozone.cost was around 10 bucks.

now notice,you have much more streamlined airflow into the hat than if you just put a boot on the outside.
the other advantage,no taper! no hassle with blowing off the boot!
much better solution all the way around.

Neat trick but I have too many welders withing 20 min driving time around me and I never liked that snail deal.


Javier

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

banks sidewinder w/ 9th gen truck.92-94.here is what you need,in the order of airflow;
hot side.turbo out to intercooler:
use existing blue banks 2.25" Hump Hose Coupler and clamps.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 45 Degree Mandrel Bend
1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.25" with 1 x 2.25" T-bolt clamp & 1 x 3" T-bolt clamp.
.............. CXRACING #IC0022-BLK (or simply #IC0022 for non treated/bare aluminum) intercooler...................
cold side.intercooler to engine intake:
1 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.25" with 1 x 2.25" T-bolt clamp & 1 x 3" T-bolt clamp.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps OR a weld with 1.5" section of 2.25" pipe.
1 x 2.25" Aluminized Steel, 3.00" Radius, 90 Degree Mandrel Bend.
1 x 2.25" Silicone Hump Hose Coupler with 2 x 2.25" T-bolt clamps.
into 093 ATS ('93 & '94 factory turbo) pressure chamber,as instructed here;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...k-Intercoolers&p=708374&viewfull=1#post708374


fyi;
mouse over the pics or right click/properties.see pic labeled #2.
if you cut off 1/2" or so on the first pipe coming out of the turbo,the pipe would come out away from the radiator a little,and set more level if desired/needed.
i may do this just for looks.it's about the only section that looks off.


first impressions;
(20 min winter drive.winter blend fuel.current temps fairly warmer today that it has been.around 37F at time of drive.running empty on steep hills.which is 8k lbs.)
as to be expected turbo boost time is slower...aka turbo lag.it's nothing drastic,but she's not as snappy as she was before trying to fill them pipes and cooler of course.
mainly where you feel the extra lag time is pretty much just when you goose 'er.normal driving only very slightly altered.but turbo lag is most definitely present compared to no cooler at all.so be wary to those who claim to run massive cooler with even larger piping and say turbo spool up time didn't increase.
personally i like this,but no way would i go any larger (for a idi turbo kit.8-10 psi ranged turbo.)

also as you can imagine,turbo pressure drop is present now filling pipe and cooler.
i was peaking 9.5 psi prior to intercooler install.im now peaking 8 psi (brief peak) then falling back to 7-7.5ish range fairly quick.but you don't feel power loss when boost falls off.it's slick.

performance feels pretty much the same even though she's down 1.5psi.so that's a dang nice sign that i might see some economy increase.i so hope.
keeping in mind it's the dead of winter and winter blend fuel is lower on energy.

i'll have to check my timing now.the cooler more dense air,feels as if it retarded the timing too much.this could account for some extra lag too.

 

[icanfixall]

Nice pics of a job well dome..

 

[War Wagon]

Opinions on aluminum or steal tubing?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

some say the steel will rust. aluminum will be more $$$....some say it will "dispense" heat faster than the steel.

if you go with stainless steel then you won't have to worry about rust on the inside, especially if are running the CRD threw the intake.

If i ever get around to doing an IC then i will go with stainless steel.

 

[Blind Driver2]

Opinions on aluminum or steal tubing?

Whichever is cheapest. I would paint the steel.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

or if you have some time on your hands you could go polish the stainless pipe.............

 

[War Wagon]

I,ve got some stock pipes from a 6.0L and those are steel. I thought I might cut them up to make my plumbing when I get there. If I built steel ones which I will probably end up doing I will defiantly paint them. For looks and to keep them from rusting. I'll be sure to post the install when I get there.

 

[blue67chero]

So my question is.. where do you mount the I/C if you have one of those giant a/c condensors up there? underneath that thing or in front of it or what? just curious.

 

[War Wagon]

Most all I've seen are mounted in front of the condenser.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

pretty sure this was asked and answered a few times already here.........but it's one giant thread.
most of us are simply mounting them in front.here in Maine where we might need a/c 2 months out of the year,this was an easy decision/not a worry in the world of the possibility of bringing down the a/c efficiency any,as long as it brings up engine efficiency,all is good.

i really can't imagine these low boosting turbo's are causing intercoolers to shed enough heat that the a/c temp would lower even 1 degree in the cab.could be wrong,but it would shock the heck out of me.

 

[blue67chero]

Awesome I was just wondering because it seems like a tight fit. Thanks for answering that. I tried reading through all the posts...

 

[Slade]

Mines in front and I haven't noticed any issues with the ac and that's I CA.

 

[jaluhn83]

Any thoughts on the frozen boost style air to water intercoolers? I like the flexibility and ease of mounting since I don't want to cut up the grill and I've already got AC and a big hydraulic winch taking up space on the front of the truck.

 

[kc0stp]

Any thoughts on the frozen boost style air to water intercoolers? I like the flexibility and ease of mounting since I don't want to cut up the grill and I've already got AC and a big hydraulic winch taking up space on the front of the truck.

Theres a writeup in the tech section on those, Im in the middle of doing mine (waiting for spring to finsh) but seems the only issue some people have is to small of a radiator so it heat soaks.