Cheap way to Intercool?

[Lumberjackchuck]

So I’m working on a build right now, and originally I was going to put off inter cooling since the cost seemed pretty high. I saw CDD has a kit for like $1500. But I think I’ll have better peace of mind if I just do it. I’m going to be head studding, upgrading turbo, and upgrading IP to 90 or 110cc.

Anyone here tried one of those universal Intercooler piping kits off amazon? Can you make one of those work with the factory turbo intake snail/hat if I clock the turbo away from it?

As for the Intercooler, would a junk yard 6.0 Intercooler work on a 93 f350?

TIA, I appreciate any help from someone who has done this before.

 

[Nero]

Following, am interested in doing the same thing.

 

[hacked89]

If you can weld anything can work. You should try to make 3” work. Whatever you do you’re going to be cutting the core support. It also depends on how you plan to attach it and the intake manifold. As you can see different vendors have different ways they attach or modify the charge pipe to the intake manifold.

 

[Lumberjackchuck]

If you can weld anything can work. You should try to make 3” work. Whatever you do you’re going to be cutting the core support. It also depends on how you plan to attach it and the intake manifold. As you can see different vendors have different ways they attach or modify the charge pipe to the intake manifold.

I only have a mig welder, I have no problem making custom brackets for the inter cooler.

I definitely won’t be able to weld anything with the intake since it’s all cast aluminum. I’ve tried mig welding cast aluminum before with ER5356 and that didn’t go so well.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I would really like an air to liquid intercooler that sat on top of the valley, maybe replaced the intake manifold.

 

[FrozenMerc]

I am rebuilding my '51 F-1 right now. It is getting a turboed and intercooled 300 I6. Obviously no one makes a kit for that particular vehicle and engine combo. I bought a generic intercooler and a bunch of mixed piping from Summit. I will cut, weld, and fab it all together. Is it cheap? Well that is a matter of debate.

I am very much in the middle of mock-up stage right now. I have the turbo mounted, and the hot side tacked together, though I have to finish the remote wastegate plumbing. Next is to put the front sheet metal back on and fab the intercooler mounts and associated plumbing. The carb will be replaced with a fuel injection system and the turbo air intake will get fabbed to the inside of the drivers wheel well in order to keep incoming air as cool as possible. On the bright side, a few weeks ago I saw a '51 with a 4BT that was intercooled. The turbo was in nearly the same location, and the plumbing was routed nearly identical to what I am planning, so I feel that I am on the right path.

Current status.

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[Nero]

Vw passat diesels from 2012-2016 had a water to air cooler for charge air, they work really well. Plus super compact.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I guess to build one we'd have to find a radiator of the right size, then weld up a little box for it to sit in, with tubes for the intakes coming off the sides. It needs to stay low so the turbo can stay on top of it.

 

[FrozenMerc]

There are lots of generic liquid to air coolers out there as well Nelstom.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Nby0-ZBlaLaEq5GODRLvYSVIO9h-0mjBoCvnMQAvD_BwE

 

[Nero]

What's nice about doing water to air cooler, is it could be mounted anywhere. Downfall? You can only cool so much.

How hot are intake temps non-intercooled? Anyone here ever probe a stock setup?

 

[FrozenMerc]

I have never temp probed mine, but I would expect Intake Air Temp is within 10 or 15 degrees of ambient when running down the road. However, sitting in traffic, or running slowly, I wouldn't be surprised to see it rise by a 100 degrees or more over ambient. My logic is two fold. First, the stock air intake is designed well, gets a good ram air affect, and has a relatively short run through the system, this all combines to minimize the amount of heat transfer to the air, especially when the mass flow rate of the air is high. 2nd, stock turbos only compress the air by 8 or 10 psi max, limiting the amount of adiabatic heating that results from the compression of the air itself.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I like the idea of not totally burying the engine under air lines.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I got something just like this: eBay generic CAC
And also found a generic charge pipe setup. If you want to add it to the stock hat you can, you'll have to buy a silicone adapter that'll fit OVER the elbow on the snorkel. Clean all fittings up with brake cleaner first so the boots have a dry seat. That's how I did mine for a while before making my own intake hat. All said and done it was under $300 shipped. Another route is to grab a 7.3 IC or 6.0 IC. I haven't fit them personally but have seen some builds.
So if you go that route get all your stuff mocked up and order whatever silicone boots you still need right away! Downtime is no fun when boost is on the line.

The only significant thought I have is to use 2.5" piping instead of 3". Unless you're going for big power you won't see any real gains as far as my research shows. I say 2.5" because with the stock fan and 3" piping doing anything is a PITA later on, and it's a PITA to run generic pipes with such little wiggle room.
Some guys have made or bought pliers that make a bump at the end of the charge pipes, I have multiple connections that have no bump and have never lost a boot up to 15psi. Just make clean connections and use quality clamps.

I've read about a few guys that had good air-to-water setups and they really liked them. They can heat soak too, but the charge pipe run is tiny and the radiator is relatively tiny and easy to mount. Costs more and it's one more motor that can break, but very cool stuff. @Shawn MacAnanny comes to mind, he had a bunch of good posts about it.

 

[Booyah45828]

IAT depends on compressor efficiency. Around 15 psig with a compressor that's 70% efficient you'll see a little over 200 or so compressor outlet temps. That's why anything more then 15 or so needs an intercooler, as the temps get incrementally worse the higher you go. FWIW the older turbos that were common on these aren't as efficient as modern designs. So a modern turbo might boost higher at cooler temps. You push higher boost levels with a factory turbo and efficiency goes off the map heating the air much more in the process.

 

[Black dawg]

What's nice about doing water to air cooler, is it could be mounted anywhere. Downfall? You can only cool so much.

How hot are intake temps non-intercooled? Anyone here ever probe a stock setup?

I will try to remember a temp gun next time I tow. Last time I checked, the before and after intercooler tubing temps difference was large.