Just had my rear main seal replaced,

[Trevtron]

Had my rear main seal replaced, a brute force 11” clutch and kit installed and my fly wheel resurfaced.

This is what I saw when I pullled my inspection cover before I took my truck to the shop.

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Shop had used the Felpro rear main seal and the cork gasket for the plate.

I asked them to use grey RTV on the lip near the oil pan and to use thread seal on the flywheel bolts and to torque them to
47 ft#’s.

 

[Trevtron]

Before I had taken it in I had looked all over the top of the engine and carefully inspected anything that could be leaking down to the rear center of my oil pan. I was hesitant to assume a rear main seal leak as I’ve read they seldom fail.

Shop did say my rear main was bad after tearing into it.

After getting my truck back and putting a 100 miles on it I’m seeing oil accumulating and running down the same area on the back of my oil pan.

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I guess next I’ll pull my inspection cover, take a few pictures before I clean up the engine really good with degreaser and water and watch for the source of the leak.

Whatever is leaking is not bad enough to eventually drip yet, just staining the back of my oil pan in the exact same place as before the shop did my rear main...maybe it really wasn’t the source of my leak...

Next time I’m not going to use a shop, hate trusting someone else to my truck as I doubt they’d be as meticulous as I’d prefer

 

[79jasper]

It's possible you need the speedi sleeve.

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[Trevtron]

It's possible you need the speedi sleeve.

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That’s true, I’m going out to pressure wash it right now and then watch for that leak to reappear

 

[TahoeTom]

I had a leak at the rear cover to oil pan due to using too little RTV at the corners. You should be able to check if the oil seal is dry as it is above the oil pan joint. My oil seal was dry but I hate leaks and curing mine meant removing the rear cover, so the seal had to be redone anyway. With the rear cover and pan cleaned of old RTV you can see the gap that needs to be filled with RTV, It is greatest at the corners.

 

[snicklas]

After you clean it, get a dye kit. It will lead you right back to the source.

 

[Thewespaul]

Man that sucks Trevor. These rear mains aren’t easy to get just right, especially if someone hasn’t done one before even tho they may be a competent shop. Keep us posted!

 

[Trevtron]

Thanks, will do.

 

[Trevtron]

I’m going to take it back to the shop Monday, they’re competent people. Work is guaranteed and they had diagnosed a bad rear main as the culprit to. So they’ll have a chance to get back in there and do it better.

I’ll mention the speedy sleeve and ask them to check the rtv on the oil pan area. Hopefully they already know more than I do because this stuff is foreign to me except for what I’ve searched and read about on this forum.

Appreciate you guys sharing some input on this, it’s frustrating somewhat

 

[Trevtron]

Just snapped these pics

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[79jasper]

Btw, make sure they know to use a thread sealer on the crank bolts.

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[Trevtron]

Btw, make sure they know to use a thread sealer on the crank bolts.

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I will, are the crank bolts different than the flywheel bolts?

 

[79jasper]

Different length, iirc.

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Oh, now I see what you were asking. No, same thing. Through the flywheel into the crankshaft flange. Lol

 

[Trevtron]

Right on, that’s what I was figuring
Lol

 

[Trevtron]

I decided not to use a pressure washer on my engine, didn’t want to blast it all to hell. Ordered a new Motorcraft CDR valve, retainer and grommet after seeing this

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Spent about 10m with a flashlight and besides the rear main the only other suspicious area for leaking was at the base of the CDR.

I had also checked the oil sending unit on the back again and it’s not leakin, am trying not to blame the main seal by default.

Will see what the shop does with it tomorrow, she’ll be fixed right soon and I’ll update this thread when the solution is found.

thanks again for all your help!!!
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