Rear main seal driver - Rotunda T83T-6701-A

soflanative

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Okay, so this may be a long shot but here goes:

I am gathering parts to change blown out DMF to a SMF and figure I may as well secure a rear main to replace while I'm in there, even though it goes directly against the prime directive. The truck has just north of 200k and with my luck it would start leaking a thousand miles after the clutch install. This has led me to research and read a mess of threads regarding the replacement of the rms(rear main seal) one of those threads had a few copies of the FSM explaining the procedure and it mentions the use of FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL T83T-6701-A. Seeing how difficult it was to acquire an OEM rotunda timing meter I'm sure obtaining this will prove far more difficult but there's a silver lining. If one of y'all has the tool and allows me to borrow it for a few days not only will you receive my love, appreciation and admiration but I'll also include a 3d printed version of it as well. That file will then be uploaded to a number of sites so others in this same predicament can create their own. I know this might be a long shot, I know my previous thread asking about the timing meter went absolutely nowhere and I can't say I'm expecting anything different here, but maybe one of you minty fellas will surprise me.
 

Nero

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If no one has the tool, I've had success replacing the seal with a press and a bearing race driver flipped around to push it in square
 

rreegg

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Believe my truck has same-ish mileage and had a local shop replace the clutch last spring. I decided to leave the rear main seal in place as it was fine…. I always support doing preventative maintenance “when you’re in there” especially for the rear main but also think it’s fine to leave depending on the case. Ymmv of course just my $.02

Main reason being I’d drive myself mad trying to find all parts and stuff beforehand and usually need things back working pretty quick.
 

WrenchWhore

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I had luck when installing my rear main seal with a block of wood from the backside of the plate until it was flush with the back of the plate. Something those seal drivers don't always account for is the various seal thicknesses. Make sure that's taken into account when test fitting the new seal to make sure the depth is set correct.
 
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