Jesus Freak's WMO tow truck

Jesus Freak

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Run a whole new wire between the floor switch and the relay for the high beams.

And you are welcome.
That's what I was thinking, but I figured I'd throw it out there before I did just in case someone happened to remember the one time they had the same thing and I should check the one thing, ya know.
 

Selahdoor

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Makes total sense. You don't know what you don't know, so it's always good to ask!

I'd test probe down at that foot switch. Figure out which wire is positive only when the bright switch is on.

CUT that wire, leaving a good long stub on the switch. Then tie into the stub of it. Run that wire out to the relay. Cut the correct wire at the relay as well, and then tie into it. This will completely cut out the old wire/s, and their possible problems.

At first, I was going to suggest that you just put the brights relay on a toggle switch. Then figured the foot switch will work as well, and you'd probably want to just continue using it.
 

Jesus Freak

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That would sure do it. I hope you're planning to dump something in your tanks to this out your WMO fuel this week. It's supposed to get cold even in the Florida Panhandle.
I might "pay my dues to society" by putting a little extra diesel in the tank. Ill probably freeze to death this weekend, my contractor has me in a regular package car instead of a cab over truck. But it's going to be excellent butchering weather! I have a steer to do, and daytime temps on Sunday and Monday are supposed to be less than 40F. So It'll basically be "freezer temperature"
 

Jesus Freak

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Makes total sense. You don't know what you don't know, so it's always good to ask!

I'd test probe down at that foot switch. Figure out which wire is positive only when the bright switch is on.

CUT that wire, leaving a good long stub on the switch. Then tie into the stub of it. Run that wire out to the relay. Cut the correct wire at the relay as well, and then tie into it. This will completely cut out the old wire/s, and their possible problems.

At first, I was going to suggest that you just put the brights relay on a toggle switch. Then figured the foot switch will work as well, and you'd probably want to just continue using it.
When I get really motivated I'm going to check the harness between the radiator and the grill and see if by chance I see anything there for broken or chewed wires. If not, I'll just run a wire like you discribed. it came out nice, I found a 6 pack of relays with built in 30A fuses and connectors for @$16 on ebay. The connectors connect together and look really clean.
 

Jesus Freak

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My contractor changed my schedule, so I'm home tomorrow. I'm going to get BOLD and attempt to time the tow truck. I scored a Fox Valley luminosity timing thingamajig in the sale of my turbo kit, so I'm going to give it a shot. This will be a bit different than the pezo timing things, it has a insert for a glow plug and detects the detonation in the chamber. And according to cetane and sea level you set it to 4-6° ATDC, yes ATDC. It's on diesel fuel right now for ease of cold morning cranking, so I'm going to take advantage of this. My question is to my WMO brethern @u2slow @Mt_Man @NeverHave-I-Ether if you're about, do y'all think I should back it up to to like 2or 3ATDC to accommodate WMO? Or shoot for 4?

Obviously anyone can chime in, I'm just curious about the guys that actually run alternative fuels like me.
 
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Black dawg

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I always ran the same timing running wmo (50/50) engine acted like timing was maybe a degree or two slow while running the mix. Sounded slightly quieter, and boost responded quicker.
 

Jesus Freak

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I always ran the same timing running wmo (50/50) engine acted like timing was maybe a degree or two slow while running the mix. Sounded slightly quieter, and boost responded quicker.
It's NA, do you think that will matter?
I'm going to go for the low end of their spectrum, 4°.
 

u2slow

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If deviating from stock, I would be tempted to run more advanced with wmo. It burns slower.

Doesn't the DB2 pump have a warm-up advance? Hotwire it on a switch... see if it likes it.
 

Jesus Freak

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I attempted to time the tow truck. After I got it warmed up and ready to mess with I figured I'd make a note of where the marks were at the beginning. That was easy enough......they were lined up straight, that can't be right. I ended up moving it towards the passenger side a little more than the thickness of a quarter. My timing light only shows advance and the luminosity timing method is supposed to be set ATDC, so there was a deal of guess work but it "seems" better. I fooled with it for a couple hours and finally got tired of it. I'll be curious to see how it cold starts.
 

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Mt_Man

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Never messed with the timing on a truck before. But have read advanced cause wmo burns slower. Gale banks has a series on killing a Duramax and he messes with the timing it is kinda fascinating. Can't remember which video it was, sorry
 

jrad235

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So which tank does your return line feed? That's always seemed to be the biggest talking point on switching fuels is diluting one tank or the other while running. As for the exhaust, sounds like you found a great option to quiet it down. I had a straight pipe for about a week and couldn't stand it at WOT so I installed a straight through resonator(6" dia x 16" Length), which was PERFECT sounding...Until I added a turbo, and then it was too quiet again... :oops:
 
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