That's what I was thinking, but I figured I'd throw it out there before I did just in case someone happened to remember the one time they had the same thing and I should check the one thing, ya know.Run a whole new wire between the floor switch and the relay for the high beams.
And you are welcome.
That would sure do it. I hope you're planning to dump something in your tanks to this out your WMO fuel this week. It's supposed to get cold even in the Florida Panhandle.You can see in the pictures why I assumed a mouse was at fault.
I might "pay my dues to society" by putting a little extra diesel in the tank. Ill probably freeze to death this weekend, my contractor has me in a regular package car instead of a cab over truck. But it's going to be excellent butchering weather! I have a steer to do, and daytime temps on Sunday and Monday are supposed to be less than 40F. So It'll basically be "freezer temperature"That would sure do it. I hope you're planning to dump something in your tanks to this out your WMO fuel this week. It's supposed to get cold even in the Florida Panhandle.
When I get really motivated I'm going to check the harness between the radiator and the grill and see if by chance I see anything there for broken or chewed wires. If not, I'll just run a wire like you discribed. it came out nice, I found a 6 pack of relays with built in 30A fuses and connectors for @$16 on ebay. The connectors connect together and look really clean.Makes total sense. You don't know what you don't know, so it's always good to ask!
I'd test probe down at that foot switch. Figure out which wire is positive only when the bright switch is on.
CUT that wire, leaving a good long stub on the switch. Then tie into the stub of it. Run that wire out to the relay. Cut the correct wire at the relay as well, and then tie into it. This will completely cut out the old wire/s, and their possible problems.
At first, I was going to suggest that you just put the brights relay on a toggle switch. Then figured the foot switch will work as well, and you'd probably want to just continue using it.
It's NA, do you think that will matter?I always ran the same timing running wmo (50/50) engine acted like timing was maybe a degree or two slow while running the mix. Sounded slightly quieter, and boost responded quicker.
I'm pretty sure that he's running strictly WMO. Since he live in Florida, he can usually get away with that.So which tank does your return line feed?