icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well if the lines are loose at the injectors AND the easy to reach lines at the pump. It will move like any gasser distributor. Did someone change the pump and remove the gear cover, gear and pump as one piece?
Injection pump timing issue
- Thread starter blue67chero
- Start date
blue67chero
Full Access Member
I can't say what the previous owner did to the truck... However he did tell me that the engine was rebuilt so it is possible that everything was removed
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gandalf
Senior Member
You shouldn't be having so much trouble turning the IP. IF it is mounted correctly, and IF it hasn't jumped a tooth on the gear wheel, then you should be able to rotate it, IF you've loosened all three nuts. You're using way too much force with a pipe extension. If you have to do that, stop and re-evaluate what is holding it so tight. Try rotation it the other direction, just to see whether it will rotate at all.
Here is a picture of the mounting surface, the end of the IP which actually faces the front on the truck. You can see the three elongated slots for the studs. You can see that there really isn't much room to rotate the pump. If the gear teeth are correct, you don't need much rotation scope. Just a little rotation will change the timing considerably.
The eight hard lines, one each between the IP and each cylinder, may also be preventing it from turning. The force necessary to overcome all eight, if they have reached their flexibility limits, is more than you may think. IF the three studs still have rotation room, then try loosening all eight hard lines, at the IP. Loosen them just a bit, but do not remove them. Try rotating the IP again. After you do this you may have to purge air from the lines.
Whatever you do, don't use too much force. You won't enjoy buying another IP if you break this one.
Here is a picture of the mounting surface, the end of the IP which actually faces the front on the truck. You can see the three elongated slots for the studs. You can see that there really isn't much room to rotate the pump. If the gear teeth are correct, you don't need much rotation scope. Just a little rotation will change the timing considerably.
The eight hard lines, one each between the IP and each cylinder, may also be preventing it from turning. The force necessary to overcome all eight, if they have reached their flexibility limits, is more than you may think. IF the three studs still have rotation room, then try loosening all eight hard lines, at the IP. Loosen them just a bit, but do not remove them. Try rotating the IP again. After you do this you may have to purge air from the lines.
Whatever you do, don't use too much force. You won't enjoy buying another IP if you break this one.
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blue67chero
Full Access Member
I came home and looked at the relation of the studs vs the elongated holes and it doesn't seem that there is a whole lot of room for it to move so... Just fun I broke all the lines loose from the injectors and the ones I could get to on the pump to see how much room it would move the other way... About a 1/2" so I'm guessing it's a tooth out? Or needs to come out and moved so we can correctly time it? Not sure which way to go from here but it's going to have to wait until after I go to Seattle this coming week
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Sounds like at some point it's been assembled incorrectly or the pump internally is way out.
I'd recommend a test; which is as I reffer to it as the IP Alignment test.
Disconnect Fuel Stop Solenoid wire so engine will not start.
REMOVE the lemon shaped cover on the IP gear cover that allows access to the 3 5/16" 12pt bolts, do not undo the bolts you only want to observer their orientation.
Carefully bump starter to bring engine around so the slot in the Harmonic Dampener is visible and then align it with the smaller of the two timing locations on timing tab. The larger deeper tube is for the Magnetic probe and THE SHORT one is the 0 deg mark.
Align the slot in dampener with the center of the 0 deg mark. now check IP bolt orientation. It should be as the image Gary shows in many threads. If it is offset way out, maybe like upside down, bring engine over again once more and realign the timing marks. Now observe the IP bolts they should line up as Gary's image indicates. If they are offset a tiny bit your gear is likely off the mark....this is a generalization of whats needed and in no way is a garantee off being 100% correct but this should lead you to a conclusion you can establish a path of correction from.
JM2CW
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Al it would be great if you could post a pic of the timing tab at the damper showing a clean clear pic of the top dead center line going thru the short fat probe location.
I don't know if this is your problem or not, but I have seen where people have mounted up pumps without using the heavy flat washers that the pump was originally mounted with. The nuts can dig in pretty good and that makes it a devil of a time getting the pump to turn without excessively loosening the nuts and jacking the pump away from the housing because the slots have become deformed.
Ask and you shall recieve Gary.
Here in this thread is what you are speaking about.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...FOR-TIMING-LIGHTS-Tech-101&highlight=TECH+101
Hope that works for the OP...
