In case of EMP

genscripter

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A bit off-topic here but have you WVO people had issues with rats or other vermin attacking rubber parts? I recently spoke to someone who lived in a rural area and had so many problems with rodents being attracted by the WVO that they gave up on it due to chewed up rubber fuel lines. Especially in an emergency EMP-type situation it would be horrible to be shutdown due to a rodent chewing a fuel line(I know this can still happen with electrical).

I've even talked with folks who have gone backpacking in areas where the common practice was to lay out a HUGE tarp, drive onto the tarp, and then wrap your vehicle like a xmas present to deter critters from chewing up your rubber parts. Perhaps a problem on a limited scale but still a potential issue.


I got started doing this stuff in 2006 and 2007 with my buddy. We did the crap-ass dana linscott style with rubber hoses and copper heat exchangers. Everything pretty much failed on our first project car.

But we learned a lot, and back when the Frybrid forum was still the best place for WVO topics (RIP), I'd say my greatest contribution to the community was the popularization of HOH Aluminum fuel lines. It was a game changer. Much cheaper than the HIH lines, without the issue of rubber kinking or getting chewed up or the greater expense.

Basically, all my veggie cars have 3/8" aluminum piping from the tank to the IP selector valves. I bundled them with aluminum piping for the coolant, and insulated the whole bundle. This eliminated any issues of critters trying to chew up rubber hose, unless they could eat metal.
 

Jason1377

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Just a random thought those who are running wmo/wvo after a emp with no electric how would you filter your supply?
 

genscripter

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Just a random thought those who are running wmo/wvo after a emp with no electric how would you filter your supply?


I have a gravity filtration setup. I have a 12v electric pump for pouring into storage cubes, but I also have a hand-crank backup. I used the hand crank for the first few years. Wasn't the worst, really.
 

Jason1377

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I have a gravity filtration setup. I have a 12v electric pump for pouring into storage cubes, but I also have a hand-crank backup. I used the hand crank for the first few years. Wasn't the worst, really.

Cool I need to read up on the usage of either one i plan on trying to get another idi just for experimental purposes.
 

Cactus Bob

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Just a random thought those who are running wmo/wvo after a emp with no electric how would you filter your supply?

I use 115Vac Motors in my setup . but i have multiple generators some with points and brushes (no electronics) these should start and run even after a major EMP.
if not i have a 3 phase converter that connects to an automotive alternator to convert the 3ph windings to 115V single phase.
Where there's a will there's a way. just use your brain.
 

Jason1377

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I use 115Vac Motors in my setup . but i have multiple generators some with points and brushes (no electronics) these should start and run even after a major EMP.
if not i have a 3 phase converter that connects to an automotive alternator to convert the 3ph windings to 115V single phase.
Where there's a will there's a way. just use your brain.


Cool information was just curious I have been in deep thought/research on old hand crank steam motors/since they have no electrical at all.
 

Cactus Bob

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Cool information was just curious I have been in deep thought/research on old hand crank steam motors/since they have no electrical at all.

Steam ? i have to hand that off to someone else. the only thing i can say, if we are to the point we are using steam that's pretty far down. @ this far down i would not be trying to attract attention to myself or my location. A cloud of smoke sorta tells the world "i am over here, distracted and have stuff you might need"
 

electrabishi

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It appears to me this thread got way off topic from the OP proposition.
You want EMP Bullet Proof WVO diesel in a Ford engine?
What about a 6.9L (which is of course IDI) and a stock C6 transmission?
No PCM required at all. (The 7.3L IDI does not require a PCM either but the E4OD its connected too does, A C6 will bolt to a 7.3L IDI but for bullet proofness I'd fall on the 6.9L side).
I've got two 6.9's and a 7.3L IDI that all only need 3 wires and a battery to start and only 1 to keep running (2 if you have an alternative heat source)(and 1 if you you have an alternative starting source - read pneumatic starter) (and none if you use those two exemptions and physically interlock the FSS).

I've been running my 7.3 Powerstroke since 1996 when I bought it new. Haven't even tried to do any WVO or EMP mods to it. Seems too futile for either case.

In the meantime I have several old 6.9L's with C6's that are turning into EMP proof zombie mobiles.

Over the years I have found you can add heat to an engine easily enough.
I have also seen where you can mechanically actuate the Fuel Solenoid with a choke cable. (C'mon, you can do it by hand ;-)
BUT you still need a battery to start the damn thing.

Maybe you can find or get batteries, or figure out a way to charge them with alternative means.
Maybe you can find a pneumatic starter that would bolt up to the old IH 6.9L engine. (this is the key)

While you think people will be pulling fuel from all the abandoned vehicles, some may even be smart enough to pull the engine and tranny fluid, but don't forget the alternators and A/C compressors. Alternator regulators may succumb to EMP. But the A/C compressors will still pump air. :)

Some say bicycles are the way to go in this event? I agree. A bicycle can power an alternator that is still working or an A/C compressor to start your beast.

There are also downdraft gassifiers that can be used to power small (or larger road worthy) IC engines that run generators, compressors or heaters to keep your diesel beast running.

An operating mechanical only diesel engine and transmission can likely never be beat, as long as the sun is shining and there is scrap metal, and people that know what to do with them.

I've been on the Ford 6.9L thing for a while, but even though I'm partial I would love to hear peoples thoughts on other similar combos such as the VW TDI's, Cummins and Trans options or even the Mitsubishi or Kubota diesel power plants. The Mitsubishi MightyMax (Dodge D50) that I turned into and Electric Only vehicle back in 2006 had a running running 4cyl diesel. Now I wish I still had it. I still have the stick shift that I kept for the EV conversion. That little 4 cyl diesel might have been a work horse.

Open minds?
 

electrabishi

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Steam ? i have to hand that off to someone else. the only thing i can say, if we are to the point we are using steam that's pretty far down. @ this far down i would not be trying to attract attention to myself or my location. A cloud of smoke sorta tells the world "i am over here, distracted and have stuff you might need"

A high efficiency boiler would make very little smoke. Steam from a small boiler could be dissipated easily enough not to be noticed above the trees. A steam boiler could power an alternator or compressor. In the long run it would attract much less attention than a noisy old diesel running down the road advertising for people to come and eat me ;-)

If you are worried about the impact of people finding you in the effort to produce motive energy, or using it, build an EV and get some solar panels. Even blind people can't hear them coming at the cross walk. (that was tongue in cheek, they can certainly hear me coming..... but you can't)
http://www.evalbum.com/756
http://www.evalbum.com/1093
 

electrabishi

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Cool information was just curious I have been in deep thought/research on old hand crank steam motors/since they have no electrical at all.

I think Steam motors are out now. But I have an open mind about them. Although in the early 1900's the split between auto-motive power was 30% steam,30% electric and 30% gas. Look who's dominated the last century, and look who's coming up to take over now. Early last century the best invention that spurred the advancement of gas vehicles has been, oddly enough, the electric starter motor, and that is what killed the steam industry. Now I have an electric starter motor that will push a 1978 Pinto to a 12 second 1/4 mile. No need for the engine which was not even close to that powerful. I've been a proponent of electric vehicles for a while. But I'm not naive. EV's take a lot of complex circuitry that are extremely susceptible to EMP.

I would agree a steam engine would not suffer any effects of EMP. But if you gotta go out 6 hours in advance in the morning to start your truck, and chuck wood chips in it as you're going down the road, how long do you think that would last if there was another alternative?

Open minds are the best.
 

electrabishi

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Also since ima noob here, maybe someone can tell me if there is a thread that addresses this. I got a 1996 crew cab frame that had a 7.3 PSD and E40D and I want to drop in a 6.9L with a C6. I know the motor mounts work between the two. The C6 is just over half a foot shorter which means I need to move the tranny cross member forward some amount. The frame has some holes that might match the cross member in it already that are just about half a foot forward of where the cross member is mounted. Does anyone know if those holes were for the same diesel with a C6, or a 460 with some other tranny? It would be so awesome if all I had to do was unbolt the cross member and move it forward to convert to a C6.
 

Selahdoor

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Also since ima noob here, maybe someone can tell me if there is a thread that addresses this. I got a 1996 crew cab frame that had a 7.3 PSD and E40D and I want to drop in a 6.9L with a C6. I know the motor mounts work between the two. The C6 is just over half a foot shorter which means I need to move the tranny cross member forward some amount. The frame has some holes that might match the cross member in it already that are just about half a foot forward of where the cross member is mounted. Does anyone know if those holes were for the same diesel with a C6, or a 460 with some other tranny? It would be so awesome if all I had to do was unbolt the cross member and move it forward to convert to a C6.
No Idea. But I can tell you that on the same engine my C6 got me 3 to 6 MPG. And my E4od gets me 14 to 15MPG.
 

Macrobb

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No Idea. But I can tell you that on the same engine my C6 got me 3 to 6 MPG. And my E4od gets me 14 to 15MPG.
Yeah. To even get any fuel economy with a C6, you need a really low-stall torque converter(to reduce slipping), 3.55 gearing(and even that could be taller)... and go 55MPH max?

(I'm averaging 15MPG, with my 5-speed+GVOD, but it's not a new engine by any means. And I don't go slow, either).
 

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