Borg Warner 1356 Transfer Case Rebuild
- Thread starter bulletpruf
- Start date
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
@Rondo I am fairly certain they are interchangeable.
I don't really think ford had any set years for those. I had a '95 f350 and I just worked on a '01 f550 that had the push down style.
I also have or had an '89 f250, '94 f150, '97 f250, '97 f350, '99 f250 Canadian, '99 f350, '00 f250, '01 f250 that all have the pull over and back style.
I'm not sure if the push down style was a special order option. I didn't mind the one in the '95 I had after I got it oiled up so it worked easy.
James
I don't really think ford had any set years for those. I had a '95 f350 and I just worked on a '01 f550 that had the push down style.
I also have or had an '89 f250, '94 f150, '97 f250, '97 f350, '99 f250 Canadian, '99 f350, '00 f250, '01 f250 that all have the pull over and back style.
I'm not sure if the push down style was a special order option. I didn't mind the one in the '95 I had after I got it oiled up so it worked easy.
James
bulletpruf
Full Access Member
The truck is a 4x4 conversion, so it's not original to the truck.
david85
Full Access Member
The transfer case in my truck came out of a 1991, and it's a side pull to get into low range. Same as my Dad's 2005 F450. I think the push down lever started in 1992 (start of OBS years), but not sure if/when they switched back to the side pull. One thing I can say is that the "side-pull" style shift linkage is all steel and cast iron, so fairly robust.
bulletpruf
Full Access Member
Question - the pump body is secured in the same slot that holds the magnet. It doesn't seem to matter which one is inserted first in the slot. Is there right or wrong way to do it?
Black dawg
Registered User
putting the pickup strainer in before the magnet keeps the hose farther away from the chain.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
I rebuilt my 1356 TC a few years ago... but now it's seeping from the parting line of the case halves. Guess I didn't use enough of the recommended sealant, or maybe the wrong one. Also there's a tiny hairline crack in the drain plug boss from some gorilla overtightening it in previous years. I finally got that to seal, though.
Anyhow, it is not really pleasant to pull the TC, not only due to its awkward size and weight but also the upper bolts that secure it to the ZF5 tailshaft are somewhat hard for me to reach. Naturally the truck won't fit on my 4-post lift with the towing mirrors bolted to the doors... would be easier to use my high-lift trans jack!
So, is it possible to remove only the rear half of the case while the front with the gears and chain stays attached to the trans? Then I could just reseal the machined surfaces (and replace the rear driveshaft seal while I'm in there), and put the Torx bolts back in?
Anyhow, it is not really pleasant to pull the TC, not only due to its awkward size and weight but also the upper bolts that secure it to the ZF5 tailshaft are somewhat hard for me to reach. Naturally the truck won't fit on my 4-post lift with the towing mirrors bolted to the doors... would be easier to use my high-lift trans jack!
So, is it possible to remove only the rear half of the case while the front with the gears and chain stays attached to the trans? Then I could just reseal the machined surfaces (and replace the rear driveshaft seal while I'm in there), and put the Torx bolts back in?
Black dawg
Registered User
yes, possible to take rear case half off in the truck, and not difficult.
Black dawg
Registered User
What the push down one is good at is vibration isolation.......no rattling shifter handle.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
What's everyone's favorite goop for sealing the two case halves together? Anaerobic gasket sealer like Permatex 51817, or just good ol' Ultra Black RTV?
There's even a Green (tube) RTV now for gear oil, but the 1356 uses ATF anyway...
There's even a Green (tube) RTV now for gear oil, but the 1356 uses ATF anyway...
hacked89
Full Access Member
The right stuffWhat's everyone's favorite goop for sealing the two case halves together? Anaerobic gasket sealer like Permatex 51817, or just good ol' Ultra Black RTV?
There's even a Green (tube) RTV now for gear oil, but the 1356 uses ATF anyway...
Thread sealants aside, there’s only two sealers I use on the truck / engine and it’s relatively to international spec. Aviation permatex on coolant facing flush mount surfaces (IE, oiler cooler, front plate, water pump) and the right stuff everywhere else.
If I see anything besides grey, black or aviation I’m suspect of whoever had the engine / parts open before me. Especially orange. For whatever reason orange rtv users are generally the biggest red flag.
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hacked89
Full Access Member
It will come apart pretty easy with aviation because it stays tacky. The right stuff is much stronger bond.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Well here's a good example for you then. I bought my Blue Truck in 2013. A couple of months later, it had a head gasket go out. I pulled the engine to replace it and do other stuff like add head studs. When I pulled the heads off, there was orange RTV on BOTH sides of the head gaskets! Apparently the previous driver had some self inflicted issues. It wasn't the guy I bought the truck from. There's no way that he'd do that. He bought the truck to fix up from a guy he worked with. He left the truck sit at work, untouched for 2 1/2 years. Then he decided that he wasn't going to have time to fix the truck so he sold it to me. I don't think that he'd even opened the doors on the truck after buying it.
