IDI performance......whats needed to run MOOSE Pump

[pennsylvaniabo]

Ok so I am saving the $$ for a moose pump, and while it torn down i figure to do a few other mods while the motor is apart. Plans are the following-

BB code injectors with return kit(this is an absolute)

maybe new head gaskets(any brand, copper coat them, what)?

head studs?

type4 cam?

intercooler?

Holley pump?

 

[hesutton]

I'm running one and Moose Injectors with all stock internals, reused headbolts, Holley Red (it's having trouble keeping up), Banks wastegated turbo (wastegate disabled), and no innercooler.

The plans you have are a good idea for running more fuel. But, the Holley Red may have a bit of trouble keeping up like mine. Fuel pressure dropps like a stone when I move my right foot. I also suspect that after 4+ years, the Holley is getting a little tired as well.

Heath

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

I'm running one and Moose Injectors with all stock internals, reused headbolts, Holley Red (it's having trouble keeping up), Banks wastegated turbo (wastegate disabled), and no innercooler.

The plans you have are a good idea for running more fuel. But, the Holley Red may have a bit of trouble keeping up like mine. Fuel pressure dropps like a stone when I move my right foot. I also suspect that after 4+ years, the Holley is getting a little tired as well.

Heath

So for example if i put on the BB inj, and pump....my stock fuel system will not keep up? How are you guys plumbing in the aftermarket pump?

 

[86F2506.9]

ur best bet is to just contact agnem and see what he says

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

yeh he has some suggestions, but in reality there are several guys here using them, and i think that it would be some good info to see what guys have doe and upgraded

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I'm running a Moose pump in my brown truck, do I search for "brown truck under the knife" and you'll find a thread detailing my build.
But I personally wouldn't even think of running one without an intercooler. At the end of that motors life the last time around I had juist barely broken into the 80-90* temps of spring and my EGTs were running 150-200* hotter than in the winter. That 150-200* put me in the danger zone of melting pistons, even with my huge intercooler.
Obviously I had another issue going on with the motor since it blew up, but I don't think that issue would cause higher EGT's. So IMO an intercooler is an absolute must or you're running a certain risk of melting it down.
I am running a Holley blue, and the only issue I have with my fuel system is that the blue runs so much pressure that I can't keep my fuel lines and fittings sealed. So with leaking fuel lines comes air into the system. I'm working on a way to solve this issue but I need to get my motor back up and running first.
There are guys that run moose pumps on the stock lift pump, I personally don't know how, but apparently they have some really good stock lift pumps. Atleast better than the ones I've had.
If you're running a 7.3 in that 92 then I wouldn't touch the heads. No reason to tear down something that isn't broken, and 7.3's don't really have the head issues that the 6.9's do. If you were running a 6.9 I'd say most definitely you need head studs, but on a 7.3 the stock bolts are more than enough.
Keep in mind that all this info is assuming you're running a turbo. I don't know of anyone that has ran a moose pump without a turbo, nor would I think it to be a good idea.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

yeh its running a banks kit. Also plugging the wastegate.....anyone have a detailed how to method, or some diagrams to do this?

 

[hesutton]

yeh its running a banks kit. Also plugging the wastegate.....anyone have a detailed how to method, or some diagrams to do this?

I took the pressure tube off the wastegate canister and capped the nipple on the canister. I plugged the hose with an appropriately sized, short bolt and clamped it tight.

I don't know why, but my EGT's have never been even close to dangerous before or after the Moose pump and injectors have been on the truck. Even running 15+ psi on the dyno.

Heath

 

[icanfixall]

I have run the holley red for many years with my engines but... I just changed to the carrier electric pump and the rig runs better now. I have used three red pumps because they just plain wore out.... I feel the carrier pump will do a much better job for you. I went from 3 to 4 lbs with the red to 7 to 8 lbs running the carrier. My timing did not change either. If it did it was so small I was not able to read it on me timing meters. How many miles are on this engine you are working on. Have the heads ever been off... Going in deep enough to change out the cam tells me going deeper is a good thing. Pull the heads is my suggestion. You already have the valve covers off and the intake out of the way. Checking the heads wont hurt anything but your wallet some... The 7.3 studs are nice insurance but not necessary. A new head bolt breaks at 153,000 psi and the ARP studs break at 200,000 psi..... I know of a shop that never replaces the 6.9 or the 7.3 head bolts. The "claim" to never have a come back for blown head gaskets... They are in the business to make money too. My original motor had over 270,000 or 370,000 miles on one oem head gasket.... I ran that motor hard towing heavy with a Banks wastegated turbo at 13 lbs... Never lifted the head.... I personally run studs for the insurance it offers me. I use felpro gaskets but victor rienz seems to be a better grade gasket here. I have never blown a felpro head gasket... I even run them in my chevy 454 motor... No problems ever. If you pull th heads make sure every rocker and pushrod are kept in the original location because they wear and that needs to be matched up again. also the pushrods have a top and bottom. One ball end is hardened and needs to seat in the rocker. Usually its a copper color but as they wear that coating wears off. So keep the pushrods in the prper location and direction as you remove and instal them. I use a cardboard box with cuts in the top so the pushrods fit tight and stand up...

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

yeh i will leave the heads as this is only a 90k mile motor. Are you guys just running the pump inline on the frame or wat?

 

[hesutton]

yeh i will leave the heads as this is only a 90k mile motor. Are you guys just running the pump inline on the frame or wat?

Yup, right in front of the tank selector valve. Click the Holley Red in my signature for a photo.

I use a constant duty relay on the fuel pump protect the ignition wiring and I also use an oil pressure safety switch. No oil pressure, no fuel.

Heath

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

so a holly red or blue....what are the specs we need? certain psi or flow ##

 

[typ4]

Use a carter like the cummins upgrade or the carrier pump. Holleys are not what they used to be, and there is a vent hole that traps water and ruins the shaft right at the seal.

 

[Diesel_brad]

How about a stock Superduty electric fuel pump

 

[icanfixall]

a STOCK PSD ELECTRIC PUMP PUTS OUT 40 TO 50 LBS PRESSURE... wAY TOO MUCH FOR OUR MOTORS. iF YOU REGULATED IT DOWN TO 7 OR 8 LBS IT WILL WORK BUT... tHATS ANOTHER EXPENCE.. A CARRIER PUMP COSTS AROUND $75.00 TO $10.00 SO FIGURE THAT INTO THE PSD PUMP AND REGULATER COST... Sorry about the caps... I hit the key by mistake... I'm not yelling....