Hydrolock rebuild question

[Jake_IN]

Been a while since I've made a post here. Anyway my truck fell victim to the leaky air cleaner lid and I hydro locked it. Luckily it only fired on one cylinder before it hit the cylinder with the water. So it wasn't to violent of an event. The engine still has about 45 degrees of rotation before it locks up in either direction. Thankfully this was enough rotation to get all the nuts removed from the torque converter so pulling the engine won't be a challenge. I also bought the service manual and have been studying it.

Anyway I've about got the engine pulled from the truck (waiting on an engine hoist) and will be tearing it down shortly. I have a few questions since its been a good long while since digging into one of these.

1. Are there any recommended suppliers for rebuild kits? I'm really leaning towards just doing as close to a full rebuild as possible and just replacing everything with new parts. I really would prefer a one stop shop. Does CDD sell these?

2. Are there any special procedures for installing the torque cam? I have had a torque cam on the shelf for probably 7 years and I'm going to finally install it during this rebuild. I just don't know if there are any additional steps i should do when installing it. Do i need different valve springs?

3. Is there anything i should pay special attention to when inspecting things from being hydrolocked?

Any other things i should watch for?

 

[snicklas]

Hey Jake... welcome back.

I think that Wes @Thewespaul can put together a “rebuild kit”... he should be along later and maybe he can give you a better idea

I would ask Russ @typ4 about the cam. You need to check clearances when you install it... he would be best for answers about it...

 

[Randy Bush]

I think you would want to check the rods to make sure none are bent from hydrolocking.

 

[riphip]

Sounds like you have at least 1 bent rod according to movement. @ 190,000 miles, I would redo the 1 or 2 rods, piston (if damaged) rod bearings & those rings on the pistons after ****** ball honing those cylinders. Can get away with upper gasket sets. RTV on oil pan. Check front/rear crank seals & do oil cooler while engine is out.

 

[IDIoit]

100% ALL RODS NEED TO BE SENT TO THE MACHINE SHOP
checked for straightness and roundness, possible even need resized.

top pic is a rod i got in a hydrolocked engine.

bottom pic,
if its a N/A block, i have a set of reconditioned rods im lookin to sell for $100 plus the ride

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Jake_IN]

Thanks guys! And Scott its good to see you pop in! A name i recognize!

I'm still clearing the cobwebs in my head on these engines since i kind of got tied up with a million other things in life and haven't done any idi work in years.

I know for sure at least one rod is bent. I'm just hoping there isn't any other damage done.

@IDIoit I'll shoot you a PM.

 

[Booyah45828]

100% ALL RODS NEED TO BE SENT TO THE MACHINE SHOP
checked for straightness and roundness, possible even need resized.

top pic is a rod i got in a hydrolocked engine.

You must be registered for see images attach

Well look at that, you found a new way to decompress an engine