Hood insulation

franklin2

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Give me some good reasons to keep it. I had some mouse problems and pulled the clips and pulled it down. Some of the clips broke. I then went down to the donor truck and it's insulation was in better shape, and between the two trucks I was able to salvage (I thought) enough clips to put it back on. Those clips are done, they won't hold after they have been installed once.

I figured it would be a little bit noisier inside the cab but I can't really tell much difference. Are there any other problems that will arise with not having it? I would imagine the block heater would work better with it on there but I never use the block heater. Maybe glowplug usage will go up on a very cold day? I did notice the hood goes up easier, that insulation is fairly heavy.

Convince me to keep it. I am ready to take it to the dump. The best price I have found for the clips is from O reilly's, I think I can get some for $10-$15. But I don't know if it's worth it.
 

Thewespaul

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Really thinking about ditching mine as well... Interested to see what input this gets
 

79jasper

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No clue on how to ship it intact, but just sell it. Some people actually want them.
I removed mine. No difference.
Imo, no way for it to really effect block heater nor glowplugs.

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dunk

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May help engine get to temp a little quicker or hold temp better in northern regions. You lose the automatic hood defrost though. Also helps keep from cooking the paint on the hood. Slight noise reduction. If yours is intact I'd get new clips. If it's falling apart I wouldn't bother.
 

The Warden

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Also helps keep from cooking the paint on the hood.
IMHO that's the single biggest argument in favor of keeping it. If the paint on your hood's good, this will help to keep it that way...if the paint's already trashed and you don't intend to repaint the truck, it may not be worth it.

As Jasper pointed out, if you decide to ditch it, someone may be interested in buying it, so I wouldn't cart it off to the dump just yet...

The hood pad insulation was failing on my first Mercedes. I let it come off and didn't replace the pieces that came off, and not too long afterwards, I noticed that the clear coat was starting to separate from the paint. The separation points were most noticeable along the centerline of the hood (right above the valve cover on the inline-5 engine) and directly above the turbocharger. Taught me a lesson about the relationship between hood pads, heat, and paint...

My truck, on the other hand, the paint was already sun-baked, sandblasted, and trashed when the hood pad came off. The paint on the hood has gotten considerably worse, but I don't know how much correlation there is in this particular case, since the paint was so bad to begin with...
 

franklin2

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I know Ford went to the trouble and expense to put it on there. I always say if they could have saved a dollar on each truck they would have. I noticed my little Ranger has a pad also. If people go to the trouble to replace ones that are torn up, maybe I should put it back on there.
 

Cruiseomatic

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When my wife was selling brand new Ford trucks (F150-450) back in '12, They told her that is there for noise, insulation, and if there is an engine fire, The fire will melt the clips causing the insulation to fall and "smother" out the fire. How much truth is to that, I don't know. But thats what they told her because she asked aswell.
 

Waystro

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Both the 85 and 86 Are missing the Hood Insulation like the Warden said paint is missing on both trucks.
But then again it's a lost cause in Texas anyway sun bakes the paint right off.
 

Fixnstuff

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I know Ford went to the trouble and expense to put it on there. I always say if they could have saved a dollar on each truck they would have.

They did "Saved a Dollar" here and there - like the hood-to-cowl seal sucks and dumps all of the water off the ends into the engine compartment. They saved a dollar or two on that one.

Hood Insulation: Here is another possible concern of perhaps considerably less importance. I don't know if Ford engineers were also thinking of this.

Technically: Warm air (in the engine compartment) holds more moisture (humidity). When the engine is turned off this continues but there is no forced ventilation (fan, and air entry through grille while driving) to displace the warm humid air.

When it is cold outside, the steel hood will cool very quickly and often reach the "dewpoint temperature" causing the moisture in the warm air to condense under the hood.

Like this simple line - from wikipedia:

> At temperatures below the dew point, water will leave the air. The condensed water is called dew when it forms on a solid surface. <

Hood underside could get quite wet depending upon relative humidities and temperatures of outside air (and what's happening in engine compartment) but it's complicated for me to to discuss it here.
This effect would stop after the engine compartment cooled down to match outside temperatures.

When you see condensation all over your vehicle while parked late at night/early morning this is the same effect from the opposite direction, moisture laden air passing over the cold surfaces of your vehicle -- however for a longer period of time than the effect in the engine compartment that I'm talking about.

So, what happens with the hood insulation? 1) The engine side surface acts as a (good enough) vapor barrier blocking moisture in the warm air from reaching the hood where it can condense as water AND the insulation itself is very important part of this - it prevents the lower surface of the insulation over the engine from getting cold and condensing moisture (it's now warm insulation surface) And at the same time it reduces heat transfer to the hood = if the air next to the hood gets warm, IT WILL contain more moisture- the vapor barrier surface on the insulation is not a complete seal. Without the insulation the vapor barrier would condense moisture.


So is that a possible concern? Rust forming?.. on parts under the hood? Technically speaking it could be. In warm dry climate, not much concern... in colder wetter climates with higher humidities cold rainy days (high humidity) maybe a concern.

What do I really think about this? Very small technical thing, of concern or not, it's one more small reason to add to the big reasons for keeping the hood insulation intact. The big reasons have been mentioned. they are:

1) Quicker engine warm up- quicker heat into the cab when it's cold (I like that).

2) NOISE INSULATION. This was a very big deal with IDI's at some point and it was addressed. My 87 has insulation on the firewall and the inner fender wells. (it's still loud and I think the old lady across the street doesn't like it not matter what time of day or night) This is not just a problem for people inside the truck, it's more of a problem for people outside of the truck, like your neighbors early in the morning or at any time for some neighbors. A neighbor on a second floor above you truck is going to notice it more with no hood insulation - plus the extra noise will bounce off houses and the truck will be louder.

For all of those reasons I WANT to keep the hood insulation.

Lastly, I have broken clips too. I bought the biggest ones I could find after checking parts stores. They were GM. Did not find any big ones for Ford. These did not hold well and lasted only weeks before they popped out - the holding pins are a bit too small. So, if I can't find proper ones for Ford, then I will GLUE THE HECK out of the GM ones to get them to stay, maybe use a thick hardening gasket sealant or gasket maker from a tube - whatever works.

Sorry this post was a bit long. My knowledge about insulation, vapor barriers, effects, etc. comes from some technical work I used to do relating to commercial/industrial buildings, earth sheltered homes, etc. where humidity control is very important (even in yachts and probably submarines) I like to pass on knowledge whenever I can.
 
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franklin2

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I did a quick crude check, the holes in the hood are very close to 1/4". The OD of the "ridges" on the clips is 5/16". Some of the sites list the diameter of the clips and if they go by the OD of the ridges it would be 5/16 even though the holes in the hood are 1/4". I am wondering if a regular 1/4" OD drywall anchor inserted the hole with a regular screw and fender washer might be the way to go. I think I am going to try and put it back on.
 

laserjock

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Nut cert for a 1/4" hole and a fender washer? I'm going to be dealing with this too so I'm watching.
 

FordGuy100

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Mine ripped in half, so I tore it out long ago. If yours is in good shape, make sure the tabs are all in there. Otherwise it will sag, and eventually break.

I saw no difference in hood temps, cooling ability, noise, etc. But if it was still in there in one piece, I would have kept it. I've also never seen condensation underneath, while things are warming up.

My guess is its intended purpose is a noise device.
 

79jasper

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Now may not be true, but I've heard with a engine fire the clips melt and the insulation drops down like a fire suppression blanket.

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