E350 / E-350 XLT 1993 7.3 IDI Radiator?

[cbxsix]

I looked and didn’t find much on radiators for a 93 E350 XLT. The only thread I found was about what fits a F-350 (tall v.s. short). I was told the E350 CANNOT be retrofitted with an F350 or Bronco 7.3 radiator, that they are too different.

My E350 has the original brass radiator. When I got it a year ago, there were was a small coolant drip, and the engine ran cold no matter what. I replaced the main radiator hoses, and the thermostat. I was lucky. The old thermostat had exploded in the thermo housing, basically, it was stuck wide open with the spring holding onto the puck and frame. I got all the bits out. Put a new one in and replaced the cap.

Whenever I use the block heater, I get about 1/4 cup on my catch pan (had an oil leak too that I fixed). When I just drive it, no noticable leaks, but that could just be the heat flashes it off. Not much need to top off the catch tank. I spoke with the P.O. 2 months ago and he admitted he saw a small drip from the ATF cooler hose pipe fitting on the bottom tank. He used one treatment of Barrs Leak. The engine runs cool, no problems and the heater works.

I have a diesel mechanic acquaintance. He has a radiator shop he uses. I haven’t got a quote yet to get the radiator leak tested, and the hose barb fitting brazed/soldered at the bottom tank penetration (where the leak is).

I just looked on line. I only found 2 E350 radiators: Oreilleys wants $1350 for an aluminum. Rock Auto wants $580.

The van just turned over 257,000 miles. It was pretty well maintained (ex-DOE Laboratory guard/comms van from Albuquerque). I love the van as it serves my purpose as a music instrument hauler and a future convertible RV.

I hope to at least get an estimate to have a shop inspect/rod/braze my factory radiator. I might even pull the radiator, pressurize it to 10# and soap bubble test for the leak or leaks. If it’s just the cooler hose fitting at the tank, I suppose I could try to solder it myself.

Thoughts? Have any of you repaired your own factory brass radiator down at the bottom tank hose barbs? Are there other choices? The P.O also put an aftermarket ATF cooler in front of the radiator / AC condenser. So, I guess I could go with a radiator that doesn’t have the built in cooler (I did read the cooler is also a pre-heater for the ATF in frigid weather, puts some early heat into the ATF).

Stu
Los Alamos, NM

 

[Cant Write]

When you replaced the hoses, did you look down inside the radiator and see how much corrosion buildup you have?

I have never fixed my own brass radiator but I like the path you are going down of keeping your existing one and having it repaired and refreshed. That is my plan when I come to that point.

 

[u2slow]

There is definitely  some interchange with the E and F series rads. Don't recall the exact ins and outs. Would be the square shaped rad, not the wide rectangle.

Also check Summit Racing. Free freight could help a lot on these bigger items.

My last 2 dodge diesel rads have been from Rockauto and Summit. Local vendors and recore shops could not even get close on price.

 

[cbxsix]

Mine’s the wide rectangle. I have some more research to do. I’ll try Summit Racing. Thanks.

 

[u2slow]

Mine’s the wide rectangle. I have some more research to do. I’ll try Summit Racing. Thanks.

You sure about that? Rockauto only shows a 'square' one for 93 e350 diesel.

The rectangle one i'm thinking of is like a Cu1166. The core is darn near 3' wide and only 16" tall.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Unless all the fins are paper thin and turn to dust when you lightly run a finger over them, I would try to keep the old radiator if at all possible. I would pull it out using lots of caution, an extra set of hands, and cardboard covering front and rear fin areas to prevent any "whoopsies" as it will be pretty heavy, even without any coolant in it. I would buy the pressure testing kit or take it to a rad shop you know/trust and have them put 20-30 psi in it and see where it bubbles with soapy water. I've soldered lots of radiators and with the correct flux and solder it's not that hard if it's just a pin hole or small void.

If you have to have it recored, make sure you have a comfortable chair and a thick wallet. Keep in mind that the original lasted you 3 decades and a quarter of a million miles. Not saying I wouldn't choke on a $1000 radiator, but you KNOW that current one fits your van.

As a van owner attempting repair, you are brave and deserve all our hopes and prayers. Best of luck whichever way you end up going.

 

[WMO4IDI]

Imo you should just get it fixed. These brass radiators are bullet proof as long as they're properly brazed.

All you need really is solder, flux & a small torch. Clean it out, melt the old solder that's problematic, prep those joints & redo it. Practice with scrap metal at first if you've never done it before.

I did mine this summer, an '89. The bottom tank sprung a massive leak & there was a drip on the top one. I brazed the crap out of it so I should be good for another 30 years!

 

[Cant Write]

@WMO4IDI if you didn’t re-core yours, was it full of buildup inside? If so, what did you use to clean all the scale out of it?

I agree in keeping his original.

 

[WMO4IDI]

@WMO4IDI if you didn’t re-core yours, was it full of buildup inside? If so, what did you use to clean all the scale out of it?

I agree in keeping his original.

I did a full flush of the system right before taking it off, with detergent, and I didn't notice any buildup.

The advantage of using deionized water to mix...

 

[cbxsix]

I went out and looked again. I guess mine is more “square”. The replacements have the correct hose barbs and are either all aluminum or aluminum and plastic. I’m still waiting on an estimate. I’ll save some bucks by pulling it myself, cleaning it, and then pressure testing it to find the leak with soapy water. I’ll make a decision then on whether I try the soldering myself. Visually, the interior of the top tank, and the tubes seem to have no corrosion. It looks like the cooling system was taken care of over its life. Wish me luck….Thanks for the replies, Stu

 

[yARIC008]

The F series do fit the E series. The only difference is slightly different fan shroud. I had to fabricate some aluminum brackets to make the fan shroud attach properly. I run the 4 core aluminum champion radiator for an F-350 in my 92 E-350.

 

[jbm6900]

Plus one on the USA Champion. Found mine on ebay, don't mess w/ the foreign pos.

 

[yARIC008]

Plus one on the USA Champion. Found mine on ebay, don't mess w/ the foreign pos.

My Champion actually has sprung a leak, but they were great about replacing it. I called them up and the lady is super nice and helpful, sent me out a new one no questions asked really. I didn't have to send the old one back either. Other than my labor of having to replace it, I thought it was a good deal.