Holy stopping power Batman!!! Hydroboost installed!

FORDF250HDXLT

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Yep, single best install I've done on my truck, and everything brake wise and all was new, vacuum assisted, so I wasn't running worn out parts, I made all new lines, put new hoses, wheel cylinders, calipers and such on, and while the brakes weren't horrible, they weren't great. I just assumed it was because stopping a 7400 lb empty truck. Then Calvin set me up, I put a new F450 Master cylinder on mine and WOW! My only fear now is my brake controller might not react fast enough! lol Awesome upgrade.

same here.i had replaced my whole system before the swap as well.it just couldn't cut it.
as i like to say; the hydro from vac adds more brake power than a turbo adds hp to an n/a idi (and that ain't no tiny upgrade.)
i can't wait to have my cake and eat it too now with a member shipping me the correct pedal! my god,my right leg looks like it belongs on Arnold.:D
 

riotwarrior

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Congratulations on that install and gittenerdun! This is one of if not the very best simple stock mod one can do bar none, no paint no camper topper, no headlight mod not tyre nothing can really compare to the absolute NIGHT and day difference this makes....and...

Tell u guys what...

If you think these Hydro's ROCK our trucks....let me tell ya...

My Bronco with 1/2 ton running gear and that real hydro boost MC and such...ya STOP right NOW LOL near spat out my teeth first time I nailed my brakes....was amazed!

JM2CW

Al
 

kc0stp

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Well since brake pedals got brought up Ive got a dumb question for everyone, is the clutch and brake the same assembly or separate? Im currently auto but seriously debating going ZF6 when this one blows vs rebuilding it.
 

riotwarrior

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Well since brake pedals got brought up Ive got a dumb question for everyone, is the clutch and brake the same assembly or separate? Im currently auto but seriously debating going ZF6 when this one blows vs rebuilding it.

Not sure on your questions.

Are you asking if Auto and Std pedal assemblies are the same between models or what?

do a search for TECH 101 and you then check list for pedal assemblies and that shows the three models we deal with in Std trans models. Autos are different

Al
 

kc0stp

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That answered the question, basically just wondering if the auto and manual hydroboost pedals were different. (Don't want to go looking for another pedal if/when I go ZF6)
 

icanfixall

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I didn't have to bleed my brakes as I reused by original master cylinder (1-1/8") and I am happy with the results. The pedal feel is great and the effort is not out of the ordinary. Of course, I had to open up the outsides of the holes so the master could slide over the hydroboost bolts. A die grinder with a carbide burr made quick work of that job. Had to cover things up as those little aluminum shards go everywhere.

Wow.. You get an A++++ for that great picture of the opening of the mounting holes. Thats so much for a clear pic...:hail:love: No in the future if or when you upgrade the master cylinder to the 1 5/16 bore master you will really see and feel what the hydroboost can do for brakeing effect.
 

LCAM-01XA

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No in the future if or when you upgrade the master cylinder to the 1 5/16 bore master you will really see and feel what the hydroboost can do for brakeing effect.

Oh yeah, he'll see and feel it alright... His pedal stiffness will increase, and his line pressure will drop by like 15% or so. Some upgrade...

Kawasaki Matt calculated it all - the most line pressure can be achieved by reusing the factory master cylinder in front of a F-Superduty hydrobooster and its respective pedal assembly. From there on switching to the larger master may give you a better pedal feel (which by the way is all in the eye of the beholder, and thus highly subjective), but it does NOT increase line pressure and thus stopping power. Apologies if I'm sounding like a broken record. Or, for that matter, like an ******. I'm just tired of seeing the same misinformation repeated over and over again. Whoever doesn't believe me, run the numbers for yourselves (and I highly suggest ya'll do that). Whoever can't run the numbers, well, IMHO them folks have no business messing with their braking systems in the first place.
 

sle2115

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Oh yeah, he'll see and feel it alright... His pedal stiffness will increase, and his line pressure will drop by like 15% or so. Some upgrade...

Kawasaki Matt calculated it all - the most line pressure can be achieved by reusing the factory master cylinder in front of a F-Superduty hydrobooster and its respective pedal assembly. From there on switching to the larger master may give you a better pedal feel (which by the way is all in the eye of the beholder, and thus highly subjective), but it does NOT increase line pressure and thus stopping power. Apologies if I'm sounding like a broken record. Or, for that matter, like an ******. I'm just tired of seeing the same misinformation repeated over and over again. Whoever doesn't believe me, run the numbers for yourselves (and I highly suggest ya'll do that). Whoever can't run the numbers, well, IMHO them folks have no business messing with their braking systems in the first place.

You can say what you want and calculate all you want...I had both and MUCH prefer the larger cylinder. I can lock all wheels of my 4X4 dually at about any speed...nough said! You've talked about line pressures and such every time this is posted, but theory and practice don't always match. The larger master cylinder gave me a much more comfortable pedal and while line pressures are what they are, having the ability to lock the wheels at about any speed is all the braking I ever need. If that is at 1000 PSI or 2500000 PSI, who cares, I can do it! I elongated the holes on my stock master cylinder and then put the larger one on, and while you seem to not like misinformation being posted, it seems everyone should try both and see how it works and feels for them. Am I smart enough to calculate the numbers, well, I'd say so, I have about 10 degrees, 1 in engineering. While I don't think what you are saying is wrong, I do feel you are scaring people from the larger master cylinder as much as you say we are steering them in the right direction. I just hauled probably 10,000 lbs behind my truck and had no issues stopping it. Don't make it sound like a safety issue, because it's not. In fact, the smaller bore may just cause brake locking at lower pedal pressure, thus being the true safety issue!
 

Vegas-Misfit

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hey op... im pretty sure i have made a deal with another member here for a 7.3 crew cab E4OD... just curious if you might be able to pm me a list of parts... and part numbers if you can it will be greatly appreciated
 

icanfixall

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LCAM-01XA... While I like what you post your not seeing the bigger picture. My post information about line pressure POSSIBLE INCREASE is what the 1 5/16 master cylinder puts out. Heres where I got my information. ABS Power Brake Onc. See their web site at www.abspowerbrake.com I feel some important items were left out of what you posted. Most important item is the new placement of the plunger on the brake peddle. Its moved up about 1 inch so that gives the peddle feel much more senativity to pressure applied. Most assuredely you have to press the peddle more for the same amount of fluid in the smaller master cylinders but. As I posted, I increased my master cylinder to the 1 5/16 from the small 1 1/8 bore. So while I increased the peddle leverage on the master cylinder I also increased the master cylinder bore size. So from my finding I have this and I will defend what I feel. I have increased my braking effect substancially. Before I would feel the peddle ingage the brakes down about 1/2 way to the floor. Yes, I am awhare of the rear shoes not self adjusting but I just installed the hydroboost and 1 5/16 master cylinder and never manually adjusted the rear shoes. I did bleed the system. My test drive showed me the new peddle feel and the touch needed to bring the rig to a stop. It was a much higher peddle. I measured it and found I had lockup brakes within the first 1 inch of peddle travel. It was a new driving experiance that I needed some adjustment time for. My closeing statement is this. I did not ask where the calculations were developed from so the math may be the issue. I really can't say so lets leave that where it is. My numbers like I posted here came from those that make or rebuild these hydroboost systems for a main line. Not some over the counter parts house guy or girl working for minimum wage. I don't dought the figures you talk about either. I can say without dought what I know and feel in my brake effort and where the peddle is when I use it. Before this hydroboost I had horrible brakes. come to a full stop and in a few seconds I was creeping forwards because the rear barkes were so far out of adjustment. The front brakes were doing all the stopping plus the slow sinking brake peddle was the master cylinder continuing to push fluid to the rear brakes. This is a know fact. Not a calculated mathmatical calculation. This is what works in real life for me and many others. My post was not intended to publish false or misleading information to get others to change to the hydroboost. Hopefully you wont take offence to my post. If so I do apoligise.
 

LCAM-01XA

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While I don't think what you are saying is wrong, I do feel you are scaring people from the larger master cylinder as much as you say we are steering them in the right direction. I just hauled probably 10,000 lbs behind my truck and had no issues stopping it. Don't make it sound like a safety issue, because it's not. In fact, the smaller bore may just cause brake locking at lower pedal pressure, thus being the true safety issue!
Actually I have said several times that complete matched setup of large master and booster and its pedal is probably the best way to go. And it definitely is NOT a safety issue, and that has been proven times and again. So no I'm not trying to scare people away from running the large master, the thing works great and there is absolutely no denying that. All I'm saying is that if a person is currently running the smaller master AND is happy with it, going to the larger one is probably gonna make them unhappy. For that matter, if they are unhappy with the feel of the small master, then the new master is too stiff (different people, different preferences), there is an in-between option, the 1-1/4" master used on some late OBS gassers... So yeah, I actually do agree with you - run what you have, if you don't like it start changing things. There is really no wrong way to do it as even the large master is a vast improvement over stock brakes. My point was that if a person starts at the lower bore sizes, and goes up expecting to gain even more stopping power, that won't happen. Now whether they need that extra stopping power to begin with, or whether they can even use it, well you kinda answered that with you ability to lock all 6 with the large master and loaded down :sly

I can say without dought what I know and feel in my brake effort and where the peddle is when I use it. Before this hydroboost I had horrible brakes. come to a full stop and in a few seconds I was creeping forwards because the rear barkes were so far out of adjustment. The front brakes were doing all the stopping plus the slow sinking brake peddle was the master cylinder continuing to push fluid to the rear brakes. This is a know fact. Not a calculated mathmatical calculation. This is what works in real life for me and many others. My post was not intended to publish false or misleading information to get others to change to the hydroboost. Hopefully you wont take offence to my post. If so I do apoligise.
Of course I won't take offense to your post, there is nothing even remotely offensive in it! Also, recommending a hydroboost conversion to anyone currently running the stock vacuum setup is not and IMHO will never be misleading information, the hydro is so much better than the vacuum and I doubt you'll find anyone who says otherwise!!! Definitely not gonna hear it from me, I try to hydroboost every vehicle I can get my hands on LOL

Btw I didn't quote the first half of your post not out of ignorance, but because it was discussed far and wide in the other thread, and what you say is correct. And please refer to what I said above to sle2115. I'd just hate to see someone do the hydro swap with their small master, then get greedy and decide they want even more stopping power, read your post, swap the large master, then come back whining that "Icanfixall lied to me, my pedal is stiffer and truck actually stops worse now, don't listen to that guy cause he don't know what he's talking about", or something along those lines. I've actually seen that happen a few times, well not with you or hydroboost, but still - someone comes over hear and reads something, does some work to their truck without understanding the fundamentals, then goes back to their usual online place for hanging out and complains about the bad advice received here... Is my previous post making more sense now? I don't doubt you're happy with running the big master, and I don't doubt it works as awesome as you say, my comment about running the numbers was directed not at you but at folks who wanna play the swap the master game in search of something that may or may not be there...

And keeping all that in mind, I have a question for the OP tbrumm - you say you like how the pedal feels now, don't you find it somewhat long-traveled and slightly too soft? These would be the typical observations of someone who's way used to the stock vacuum brakes, I'd like to hear what your findings are please? Thanks!
 

riotwarrior

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Oh my....sounds like we are steering off the OP original issue of how HIS swap IMPROVED his braking!

Like I said if ya'll think the brakes improve on the 3/4 & 1 tons...try the hydro on a 1/2 ton..or Bronco OMG good brakes!

With the smaller piston calipers and smaller bore wheel cyl...stopped RIGHT NOW! with great feel and so forth.

The large bore may have a lesser overall PEAK pressure available, however what it does have is a greater fluid volume immediately and throughout it's travel thus offering a quick, and reliable level of volume added to that the increase in pressure from Vacuum to HB that is available and you have a better (subjective) pedal feel

Also with more volume capacity available those not so good rears fill much more quickly and thus do much more than slide along they actually get used! This IMHO is where we see a large % of improvement over what was available with the stock MC/vacuum setup.

JM2CW

Theory/practice/hunch

What works works

NUFF SAID

:popcorn
 

LCAM-01XA

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Riotwarrior, that's why I tried to minimize the tech talk in here, it was discussed a lot in the other thread and there really isn't much left to say that hasn't been said already. Notice how I responded to sle2115 and icanfixall, that was my whole reasoning for saying what I said... In hindsight I probably should have just kept my mouth shut in the first place... I still wanna hear the OP's opinion tho.

Btw how much does your Bronco weigh? I've done hydro swap in a 3900 lbs (with driver and fuel) halfton, throw in some 1-ton brake goodies in the mix and during a panic stop she could make just about everyone following too close brown their *******... Or eat the trailer hitch... Or both. Darn tailgaters! LOL
 

sle2115

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My point was simply to not steer the OP from or scare them from using the bigger M/cyl. No need for anyone to keep their mouth shut, and if there was, I'm sure a moderator would handle it! lol If the OP is experiencing quick lock times, as I did with the smaller, higher pressure m/cyl, my suggestion would be to use the bigger one, it worked for me and if offering proven information is getting off track, then I guess this site is off track from step 1! I take nor meant any offense, just know what has helped my setup and was passing that along, but I'm glad everyone is here to keep us all on track! :p
 
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