Holy stopping power Batman!!! Hydroboost installed!

[opusd2]

Hydro is the only way to stop.
At one point in my life I drove a C60 fuel oil delivery truck with the electric assist braking, it was a pleasant surprise. But the finest brakes I have experienced are in my 84 CUCV M1009 Blazer. That thing is a traveling salesman for hydro-boost brakes. In fact, all 3 of my GM diesels had them; the 81 K1500, the 82 Suburban, and the 84 '09. And I will be darned if those parts won't Frankenstein style make a move to my Fords like the 79 Bronco I am putting together.

Still, between pure vacuum and the electric assist brakes, I think I would even go with them.

 

[dancrowley]

What year Super Duty brake pedal do I need for my Hydro-boost swap? Dan

 

[snicklas]

Same era as your truck

So:
87-91 Bricknose
92-97 OBS

and your transmission flavor also.......

 

[riotwarrior]

Same era as your truck

So:
87-91 Bricknose
92-97 OBS

and your transmission flavor also.......

This isnt entirely correct...

From the research and measuring and so forth I have done any 87- 97 f superduty brick or obs pedal is the same for standard transmissions I did a very thorough tech 101 comparing std pedal azsemblies all brake pedals dimensions where IDENTICAL for std trans the 97 std hydro pedal will fit a 87 up std pedal frame and pre 87 pedal frame too.

As for automatics I do know I will he doing a similar comparison for pedals once I get the 3 different body styles to compare.

Check out the tech 101 for more info.

Hope this has not added to confusion but resolved it

 

[tbrumm]

What year Super Duty brake pedal do I need for my Hydro-boost swap? Dan

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?63330-Now-I-have-the-OBS-hydroboost-pedal!
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?54600-hydroboost-pedal-pin-dimensions&highlight=
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-up-Std-pedal-assemblies!!&highlight=Tech+101

Dan - here are some threads to read through that will help explain the pedal situation for you. The last one is Al's (RIOTWARRIOR) excellent Tech article regarding the pedal differences between the truck generations. Please put you truck in your signature so we all know what year and model of truck you have. That helps a bunch with questions like this. One thing is for sure, hydroboost is a great mod for the truck and well worth the time and effort.

 

[ps444mike]

sub....

 

[CaptainMorgan556]

Where did you get the Reservoir? I can't seem to find the correct one.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ford dealers used to have the reservoirs, around $30-40.

Btw I finally dug out the 1-5/16" bore F-Superduty master cylinder and figured I'd throw it in our IDI and see how it works. It replaced a master with 1-1/8" bore, which was factory size for this truck. Pedal feel is kinda meh, obviously not as "spongy" as before but at the same time requires noticeably more pedal force to achieve the same amount of braking. Which is not surprising considering the physics behind the whole thing, but I gotta say after so many folks raving about how well the thing works this is somewhat of a letdown...

Gonna give it one more chance with another hydroboost, and if it's still lousy the big master gets yanked out and the factory one goes back in together with non-hydro pedal and the hydroboster gets moved down on the firewall to match the pedal height - done that on another truck and it worked amazing, worth a shot for this truck as well.

 

[tbrumm]

Where did you get the Reservoir? I can't seem to find the correct one.

The part number for the PS Reservoir with the two return nipples that I used is E5LY-3A697-A. I still have the part number label from the box it came in. I bought mine form a dealer on eBay, but here is a link to one on an internet vendor http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-reservoir-asy_e5ly-3a697-a.html

You need to order the reservoir for the F-Superduty (not a F250/F350) since the F-Superduty came factory equipped with hydroboost brakes and required the reservoir with 2 return nipples.

 

[tbrumm]

Ford dealers used to have the reservoirs, around $30-40.

Btw I finally dug out the 1-5/16" bore F-Superduty master cylinder and figured I'd throw it in our IDI and see how it works. It replaced a master with 1-1/8" bore, which was factory size for this truck. Pedal feel is kinda meh, obviously not as "spongy" as before but at the same time requires noticeably more pedal force to achieve the same amount of braking. Which is not surprising considering the physics behind the whole thing, but I gotta say after so many folks raving about how well the thing works this is somewhat of a letdown...

Gonna give it one more chance with another hydroboost, and if it's still lousy the big master gets yanked out and the factory one goes back in together with non-hydro pedal and the hydroboster gets moved down on the firewall to match the pedal height - done that on another truck and it worked amazing, worth a shot for this truck as well.

I am glad I reused my 1-1/8" bore master then. I like the pedal feel and effort is seems low to me.

 

[cpdenton]

Another thing about the master cylinders. I have the big one, and it seems like I now have too much rear brake bias. I am constantly having to readjust the rears, and they lock up almost on demand. I will be switching back to see the difference.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I am glad I reused my 1-1/8" bore master then. I like the pedal feel and effort is seems low to me.

Doesn't it feel a bit spongy tho? Ours kinda did, I mean it was alright but just not quite right... Yeah I know, I'm a picky one, lol

Another thing about the master cylinders. I have the big one, and it seems like I now have too much rear brake bias. I am constantly having to readjust the rears, and they lock up almost on demand. I will be switching back to see the difference.

That's cause you DO have too much rear bias. It comes from the big hex-shaped fitting on the side of the master that the rear brake line threads into - on the F-Superduty truck it's just that, a fitting, whereas on the 1-tons and smaller it's actually a proportioning valve to cut your rear line pressure down some. You can try removing one such valve either from your old master if you still have it, or from a junkyard truck, and installing just that in place of the F-Superduty fitting. This is of course assuming that threads are the same, which I'm not sure if they are, never checked them. Our setup utilizes the factory F-Superduty fitting and then an aftermarket bias valve - we turn the line pressure down some when bobtailing so the RABS doesn't get too much of a workout, and when we get some heavy load we turn the pressure back up to deal with it. Takes a bit of tweaking to figure out the ideal spots for different loads tho.

 

[tbrumm]

Doesn't it feel a bit spongy tho? Ours kinda did, I mean it was alright but just not quite right... Yeah I know, I'm a picky one, lol.

Nope - no "spongy" feel at all - nice and firm with low effort. This is the second 1-1/8" OEM master I have used with the HB system on my truck. I had reused the original master when I did the HB install and that worked well up until it started leaking brake fluid out between the HB unit and the back end of the master. At that point, I debated long and hard about buying the F-Superduty master for the replacement. In the end I figured I was happy with the feel and operation of the brake system with the 1-1/8" master, so simply bought another OEM unit. Still happy with it, but I seldom tow heavy either. As they say, "your results may vary".

 

[cpdenton]

That's cause you DO have too much rear bias. It comes from the big hex-shaped fitting on the side of the master that the rear brake line threads into - on the F-Superduty truck it's just that, a fitting, whereas on the 1-tons and smaller it's actually a proportioning valve to cut your rear line pressure down some.

I thought that too, but I actually have the fitting that was originally on my truck. When I took the one off to swap the original one back on, I compared to two and visually, they look the same. Mperhaps they are different by the thousandths. Tell me more of this rear pro portioning valve you have.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i prefer the f450's master myself.it shouldn't ever be spongy.if anything this master firms things up just a touch more.even though it's slightly firmer it's much more matched and correct to me.the pedal works quicker than with using the pickups master and the rear brakes get to actually be used which is nice.before it seemed my fronts did all the work and i don't need to keep frigging with the rear adjusters anymore.

note; my RABS is bypassed via brake line.

edit;
im really thinking you've got a bad f450 master lcam if it's spongy.it should be just a touch firmer but work the brakes much quicker.perhaps try bench bleeding it again?