EGT questions

Lumberjackchuck

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Modern vehicles are actually better shielded than old vehicles. Electronic shielding started being developed way back in the 60s with the developed of EFI, as they discovered that the injectors could missfire from interference caused by the ignition coil. Early EFI wasnt well shielded, but they did incorporate capacitors and grounding to absorb the static.

The electronic devices in our IDIs are actually not shielded at all and are far more susceptible to interference from an EMP than any new vehicle. All of the relays in our trucks would be cooked, that means no starter relay, no glowplug relay, no fuel shutoff solenoid, no automatic transmission. You could get around most of this, except for the FSS, im not sure how one could bypass that being locked closed, maybe open it up and manually disengage it? Then you wouldnt be able to shut the truck off without opening it up again.

Modern electronics on the other hand are required to be enclosed in electronic shielding with grounding circuits and capacitor systems to prevent outside interference from radio waves, spark plugs, ignition coils, etc.
I think generally electromechanical equipment like your relays and ignition coils will be fine unless it is a VERY large EMP.

Electronic equipment that operates on low voltages like integrated circuits and microchips, where there is hardly any insulation because everything is so compact, are much more susceptible to EMP. Also, a much more vast array of inductors and capacitors gives a wider range of resonant frequencies that the RF from the EMP can affect. And these things aren’t in perfect faraday cages, even though they have some shielding to prevent RF interference.

The IDI’s should be good to go.
 

Rdnck84_03

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2024 F350 MSRP is 51k
That must be a no options fleet truck. The weld shop I did work for bought a new 10 f250 4x4 crew lariat with a 6.4 in mid 11 for 35k. After the extended warranty ran out at 100k it has had 25k+ in repair costs plus months at a time of it being in the shop (7 months being the longest) it is currently at 248k miles.

While that truck was in the shop for the 7 month ordeal they purchased a brand new 16 f350 single wheel 4x4 crew lariat with the 6.7 for 72k. It was in the shop numerous times under warranty, the first being at 3500 miles for a head gasket leaking coolant down the backside of the engine. I had a plastic intercooler tube explode with 19k on it.

Somewhere around 50k something happened to the the trans controller and it wouldn't drop below 4th gear, shifted fine 4th - 6th. But started off in 4th. Truck currently has 186k and has had around 20k worth of repairs since the 100k warranty ran out.

Yes they have far more towing power, creature comforts. There is no way your going to convince me that buying a brand new truck is even remotely cost effective.

I have had my 83 since somewhere between late 15 and early 17. Including purchase price, injectors, a parts truck with a fresh IP, tires, and all routine maintenance I have less than 3500 invested. I would trust it to go anywhere.

James
 

03wr250f

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I see my fan got mentioned @ISPKI pm me if ya got questions, but basically all you could steal from a 6.4 is the fan clutch, and that is if its still good.
But to Steer slightly back on course, yes egts are irrelevant when unloaded basically. keep it under 1200 and roll with it.
If you dont like how hot they are downshift, and the same thing with a trailer. run it in a gear lower and the egts will be just fine especially being intercooled

Now having a oil temp, coolant temp and egt gauge in my truck it is very cool to see the relationship. If you run sustained 1200* it will spike the oil temps up, which then drag coolant temps up, so truthfully if you are running at 1200* you will end up with higher coolant temps over a long grade. I have even had one customer towing a 12.5k 5th wheel who adjusted his banks from 7 psi to 11 psi, dropped his egts 150* which dropped his coolant temps at the top of a 6% grade from 235* to 225*

food for though
 

ISPKI

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I think generally electromechanical equipment like your relays and ignition coils will be fine unless it is a VERY large EMP.

Electronic equipment that operates on low voltages like integrated circuits and microchips, where there is hardly any insulation because everything is so compact, are much more susceptible to EMP. Also, a much more vast array of inductors and capacitors gives a wider range of resonant frequencies that the RF from the EMP can affect. And these things aren’t in perfect faraday cages, even though they have some shielding to prevent RF interference.

The IDI’s should be good to go.
That FSS is going to slam open and fuse it's contacts, probably. Likely that it would still allow you to start the truck, would just have to figure out how to shut it off, and the GP controller would be toast. Starter relay and GP relays may survive since they are intended to handle significant heat by design and the EMP wouldnt last long enough to cook them.

Modern electronics might sustain damage if the EMP is large enough that it overwhelms their grounding circuits and capacitors - which certainly could happen. The difference here is that modern electronics are actually designed with this in mind, whereas the electronics in our trucks are not. Also - Modern vehicles are transitioning over to fiber optic transmission rather than electronic. In a shielded system, the weakest link tends to be the wiring passing thru the shielding. Even though alot of modern vehicle wiring is also shielded, its not to the same level as say a faraday cage. Fiber optics would allow for an ideally shielded electrical system, since the fiber optic line is not electrically conductive, therefore there is no conductor penetrating the shield. I dont know to what extent this is used, from what ive read, most safety circuits are now using fiber optics. I know my 12 year old volvo has some fiber optic lines scattered around it's harness since ive opened it up and seen them, but it still uses alot of copper as well.
 

ISPKI

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I see my fan got mentioned @ISPKI pm me if ya got questions, but basically all you could steal from a 6.4 is the fan clutch, and that is if its still good.
But to Steer slightly back on course, yes egts are irrelevant when unloaded basically. keep it under 1200 and roll with it.
If you dont like how hot they are downshift, and the same thing with a trailer. run it in a gear lower and the egts will be just fine especially being intercooled

Now having a oil temp, coolant temp and egt gauge in my truck it is very cool to see the relationship. If you run sustained 1200* it will spike the oil temps up, which then drag coolant temps up, so truthfully if you are running at 1200* you will end up with higher coolant temps over a long grade. I have even had one customer towing a 12.5k 5th wheel who adjusted his banks from 7 psi to 11 psi, dropped his egts 150* which dropped his coolant temps at the top of a 6% grade from 235* to 225*

food for though
And I dont even have one! Yet! Ive seen nothing but good things about it on fbook.
 

GaryB

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The originating post is rather subjective. We don't know how many RPMs you were turning or how heavy you were into the throttle. So it's kind of I guess by golly. LOL. If you were at 3/4 throttle there isn't much more left to give you know what I mean? Like most have said here higher rpm and back out of the throttle will cool things down so I wouldn't freak out about pulling a heavy load. Personally I don't go over 1050 or 1100 on a colder day. Once you have replaced a damaged piston when your young you learn "that" lesson. Don't ask me how I know. Remember as well how far down line your pyro sensor is mounted affects your accuracy on the guage as well.
 

Nero

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@GaryB these are at highway speeds, so just enough throttle to maintain speeds most of the time. Usually 1/4 to 1/2 depending on the grade.
My sensor is also mounted straight on the exhaust manifold pre turbo.
 

Nero

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New exhaust is up, new down pipe and wastegate delete on.

HOLY **** it's a whole different animal now

No more hazy exhaust, just clear when getting onto it. No more power delay. You hit that go pedal, you're going... NOW.

Did just one loop around my neighborhood, at idle, my EGT's are now less than 400f, sits about 370f, before it was about 420f.

Laying into it, getting to 55mph in 4th, my EGTs peaked at 850f before I backed out of it, but they went down waaaayyyy faster.

I'll have to drive it to work and see how it does on that steep grade.
 

Nero

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I'm totally thrilled with where my power ended up, my overall goal was to up the power a little and make it as reliable as possibe and increase longevity. Talking with Justin this is the best build for that. Nobody ever talks about upgrading the exhaust though :idiot:
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I love it when a plan comes together! Glad to hear the good news for you. Yes the up pipe not leaking and a bigger down pipe + open exhaust makes a huge difference. Now you're feeling the way that setup aught to run!
 

IDIBRONCO

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Nobody ever talks about upgrading the exhaust though :idiot:
I do, but in real life. Not on here so much.
I have a friend who had a 94 PSD a few years back. He said that he wanted a bigger turbo, bigger injectors, etc. He was talking about doing all of these upgrades. I asked him what he wanted out of the truck. He said that he wanted to be able to load 3 or 4 horses in his trailer and be able to go down the road at highway speeds. I told him that all he needed to do was to get the tuner he was talking about, install a bigger down pipe, a free flowing exhaust, and upgrade the intake. That would make it a completely different truck with the tuner set on "economy". He acted like he didn't believe me. Of course, like always, he kept the truck for a couple of years, until it needed a big enough repair that it would actually cost some money (a SMF conversion in this case) and then sold the truck. He never does any of the upgrades that he talks about.
 

THSIM9

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Glad to hear it! Also glad that I upgraded to 4” exhaust when I did the banks kit years ago I am using a diamond eye 4” PSD kit with a muffler. Should be able to just run what I’ve already got now that I have bigger turbo, IP, and injectors.
 
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