Didn't want to post just yet

[payableondeath6]

Hm.. the whole truck. Probably quite a while, even with a really good gun. This one doesn't have a very wide spray so it'd probably take a good long while. Not to mention a ton of sand, unless you vacuumed up the old stuff and reuse it.

That's what I kind of figured. IDK, maybe I'll do it one body panel at a time, then primer it when I'm done with that panel...maybe that would save my sanity

Put some Lucas additive in her yesterday to see if that'll lube the IP any and take care of the running away, still have to get the filters, oil and power steering pump...and a chance to just look her over and familiarize myself with the engine, suspension, and exhaust a little.

 

[Agnem]

Flushing and filling the cooling system with a good green low-silicate antifreeze, and adding SCA's is on the list of recommended best practices of things to do when you get a new to you truck. It would be an ideal time to swap out that thermostat and the piece of mind you get will be worth more than the cost of the part IMO.

 

[jtate]

when you do your filter changes, it would do you some good to fill the fuel filter up with power service instead of diesel and run that through the ip might get rid of your engine problem. it will smoke alot until it burns out the power service.

 

[payableondeath6]

when you do your filter changes, it would do you some good to fill the fuel filter up with power service instead of diesel and run that through the ip might get rid of your engine problem. it will smoke alot until it burns out the power service.

heck, that's worth a try. would Lucas work the same? that's just what i bought while i was out.

 

[tonkadoctor]

I wasn't paying attention to this thread.

For media blasting, small guns like that will take a long time and you really don't want to use silica sand on body panels as the heat can warp them, especially large panels like the hood.....Not to mention the health hazard of blasting with silica sand.

The best thing to do would be to take it in and get it blasted for you. It's worth the few hundred $$$ to have it done by a shop that has the correct equipment to blast something large like that. They can do in a few hours what will take you weeks with a 1 qt gun.

You should use crushed walnut shell media or baking powder (or was it soda, hmmm, can't remember these days) on autobody work.

One of the reasons that the truck is rusty like it is, is because it was left in cheap primer and in the weather by somebody that probably started with good intentions and most primers are not waterproof. If you blast to bare metal get it in a good epoxy primer ASAP, even before starting to cut and weld in patch panels, epoxy primer is waterproof.

Body work can be done after the primer is on. You'll just have that small area you are working on exposed to the air vs the whole truck.

Patch panels don't need to be welded solid, a tack every 1" is fine. I have a pneumatic flanging and punching tool I bought about 20 years ago. Saves time and makes for a nice repair when the patch you put on sits flush with the rest of the body and the punch lets you put in spot welds that look like the factory did it.

Good luck

 

[payableondeath6]

If it's going to cost a couple hundred dollars to sandblast the whole thing I'll probably just wait on that. I'll sand down the rough spots and brush some rustoleum on and see how that looks.

Got the AC blowing cold this weekend All it took was putting the belt on, R12 to R134a retrofit kit, and 4 cans of R134a and it's ICE cold. Figures the 1989 F350 would be easy to get the AC working on but I've got to check why the clutch isn't engaging on my 1998 ****** ...so I've got some checking to do, but with 95* high today no AC will not be fun

[edit] I'm still looking for several parts/pieces for the truck, posted an ad up in the "Marketplace" if anyone has some of the stuff I'm looking for.

 

[payableondeath6]

I'm assuming from what I've read on here that my truck is exhibiting signs of a bad IP, could someone confirm that for me? Symptoms are a good amount of blue smoke at startup and rough when first started (both of these are at warm to hot weather), acts like it has a miss sometimes at highway rpms (2200 or so), occasionally the engine revs up on its own (accelerator pedal is independant and I can usually get the engine revving to settle down by putting it in gear and letting out on the clutch a little). Other than that the truck has no running problems. Injectors are relatively new, has electric fuel pump, no water in fuel light on, fuel filter doesn't have very many miles on it but i will likely change it.

Other than that the only problems I have with the truck is the steering (have yet to find the time to chase the play down) and the clutch has to be pressed to the floor for 1st and R and just seems like a lot of pedal for gear shifting (going to check the linkage for the heim mod and check the firewall to see if it needs the reinforcement).

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Other than that the only problems I have with the truck is the steering (have yet to find the time to chase the play down) and the clutch has to be pressed to the floor for 1st and R and just seems like a lot of pedal for gear shifting (going to check the linkage for the heim mod and check the firewall to see if it needs the reinforcement).

Steering play, check all of your tie rod ends as is they are worn that will allow a good share of play compounded with the worn gears in the gear box.
For the clutch pedal, check the nylon bushing on the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Them buggers get eaten up purdy good sometimes.(A brilliant design )
Usually the bushing gets worn out from use and will either break apart and fall out thus causing the pushrod and bushing pins to wear and egg shape over time if let go too long. If it is to that stage then it is definitly time for the mod. Alot cheaper than replacing the the master cylinder as it is a one piece deal with the pushrod. I haven't been able to locate just a pushrod for the assembly so I did the mod. Much cheaper and better pedal response. If the bushing is slightly worn you could also just replace it as another alternative.

To check for the firewall flexing bout gonna need 2 people to do it. Have one person push down the clutch pedal and see if firewall flexes when the pedal is depressed.

 

[payableondeath6]

Steering play, check all of your tie rod ends as is they are worn that will allow a good share of play compounded with the worn gears in the gear box.
For the clutch pedal, check the nylon bushing on the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Them buggers get eaten up purdy good sometimes.(A brilliant design )
Usually the bushing gets worn out from use and will either break apart and fall out thus causing the pushrod and bushing pins to wear and egg shape over time if let go too long. If it is to that stage then it is definitly time for the mod. Alot cheaper than replacing the the master cylinder as it is a one piece deal with the pushrod. I haven't been able to locate just a pushrod for the assembly so I did the mod. Much cheaper and better pedal response. If the bushing is slightly worn you could also just replace it as another alternative.

To check for the firewall flexing bout gonna need 2 people to do it. Have one person push down the clutch pedal and see if firewall flexes when the pedal is depressed.

The tie rod ends are new, but that still leaves a lot of other places for steering play, rag joint and steering box will be the main ones i'm checking. Is the rag joint easy to see from the engine bay while someone turns the wheel? Couldn't find info on that in my manual.

Also, I'll check that bushing first. Maybe I'll luck out and it'll be that and I can pay someone to send one to me

Any idea on the IP? I was really hoping to get one (if that's the problem) before the rally so when I go down to pick up some parts maybe I could get some help/tips on installing and timing

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

The tie rod ends are new, but that still leaves a lot of other places for steering play, rag joint and steering box will be the main ones i'm checking. Is the rag joint easy to see from the engine bay while someone turns the wheel? Couldn't find info on that in my manual.

Sounds like ya got it narrowed down to the two most likely culprits at this ponit.
The rag joint is that funky looking rubber piece that the steering shaft uses as a "u-joint" and can be seen easily from the engine compartment.

 

[Agnem]

Your miss could be the pump, or possibly injectors. In general, it does sound like your fuel system needs a good overhaul. Could be an air or fuel delivery problem, but that is usually accompanied by very hard starts. I'd say if you can afford it, throw a new IP and set of injectors at it at the same time. Gives you like new performance.

 

[payableondeath6]

Your miss could be the pump, or possibly injectors. In general, it does sound like your fuel system needs a good overhaul. Could be an air or fuel delivery problem, but that is usually accompanied by very hard starts. I'd say if you can afford it, throw a new IP and set of injectors at it at the same time. Gives you like new performance.

The injectors are new, well within the last year or so per the PO's maintenance records. Also, air filter wasn't too bad when i checked it last week so i'm guessing it's not air. So i'm guessing the IP then.

Reading the diesel manual it made it seem like the IP replacement wasn't too bad, if I can get ahold of one before the rally should I attempt it on my own or should I go to the rally and get some tips/help from y'all there? Keep in mind I'm completely new to diesels but have done my own maintenance on my other vehicles for the last 7 years I've been driving.

I'm pretty happy with the performance now, based on my V6 F150's towing ability, so I can't imagine getting better with a new IP and some intake mods

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Reading the diesel manual it made it seem like the IP replacement wasn't too bad, if I can get ahold of one before the rally should I attempt it on my own or should I go to the rally and get some tips/help from y'all there? Keep in mind I'm completely new to diesels but have done my own maintenance on my other vehicles for the last 7 years I've been driving.

Sounds like an IP replacement clinic.

 

[payableondeath6]

Sounds like an IP replacement clinic.

I'm definitely game if that's what it looks to be. I wanted you guys to give the truck a good once over and drive anyways to let me know what I should be looking out for

I figure I can make it down Saturday (30th) and was going to try to be there around noon (3.5 hr drive), figured I'd stay for however long and try to make it back home before midnight (unless I could set up a tent somewhere overnight).

 

[payableondeath6]

Sounds like an IP replacement clinic.

Is this something we can do for sure? If so I'll make sure I have an IP and get there whenever needed