I want to pick some brains

[KevSrFord]

I haven't been on in a while but could use a little advice from those with a bit more smarts than me (I'll never claim to be the brightest light bulb in the pack).
My 6.9 in one of my trucks has gotten tired and it's time to do something with it cause it doesn't want to even start now mostly cause it's down on compression from age.
I picked up a running 7.3 (aprox 150k milage) to drop in temporarily that runs great but leaks oil very severely.
My plan is basically just regasket the entire motor while it's out and set it in and run it until I get one of my other 6.9's fully rebuilt and set in (realistically it will be april or may before I'll be able to complete my rebuild just because of time constraints). I really cannot let the truck just sit as I use this truck on a regular basis in hauling for the bit of extra money I make over my veterans compensation.
Basically what I would like to know is if I should do anything more than just regasket everything? I figure it will be an easy job since I have the motor out and can easily get everything and can have the truck back on the road by sunday.
Also would you risk putting a turbo on the motor? I have a Banks sidewinder I planned on for this truck when I put the fresh motor in. But this motor is not fresh. Since I depend on this truck I was not sure it would be wise to push my luck on installing the turbo now or just hold off. I have gone the last 6 years with this truck without one and another 6 months won't kill me but the extra boost would be nice.
Thanks in advance for any advice y'all can offer me.

 

[Clb]

Reseal it, oil cooler service, go thru clutch for p.m., unless you have a turbo exhaust system to bolt up, I'd wait on that can o worms.

My .o2
If you put a 7.3 turbo into it, you won't build the 6.9 new...

 

[Nero]

If you put a stock turbo on a 7.3, it doesn't really change the reliability of the engine. Just watch your EGT's and you'll be fine.

 

[hacked89]

exactly to what you are asking, first hand experience on 3+ 7.3 engines. Compression test first, look at numbers. If good - tear down and reseal. Replace oil pan. Oil cooler service, measure things (heads valves etc) new valve seals. Comp910 springs if running high boost. Factory if not. Stud all engines NA or not. (This is absolutely not a requirement and depends on your financial situation, I have reasons for studding NA I can go into). Always new motorcraft, thermostat, water pump, IP, injectors, return etc and then let it rip. Have been rock solid except for an engine core I had that was over bored and cracked when I got it. Any seasoned standard bore engine just eats it up. I’m running 130cc on one of them. Additionally vacuum fill and I’m not even touching thermostat full open 90 degree day except on long grades. Low EGTs.

 

[KevSrFord]

I thought about just going to the 7.3 when I did the rebuild as I have one that runs but has a slight tick somewhere in the motor. But from what I have researched I decided to stay with the 6.9 and put a turbo on it mainly because of less cavitation problems from the thicker cylinder walls.
I know that sounds like an odd reason for my choice but the power benefit to me doesn't over come the benefit of something I don't need to worry about nearly as much for a long lasting motor.
I have some up coming trips planned over the next 4 to 5 years and am planning on using this truck. One of those trips will be over 10k miles round trip going up to Alaska in it pulling a gooseneck horse trailer converted to an RV. My other option is buying a new truck and I don't want to get back into payments anymore. It's been nice over the last 5 years not having payments in that department.
I also don't think I can get away with blending used motor oil for fuel in anything newer and I have enjoyed having reduced fuel costs. That was my primary reason for going with the IDI's to begin with. I gave up driving a 2008 f150 crew cab for an IDI. The only thing I miss is the larger cab but I have compensated for that and it's not an issue anymore.

 

[Nero]

@hacked89 why replace the oil pan?

 

[hacked89]

@hacked89 why replace the oil pan?

A number of reasons - if the engine is out then resealing the oil pan is a great opportunity to correct a source of often pesky leaks when in vehicle. Oil pans are not expensive. If you tried to reuse the factory oil pan it’s often bent coming off and not the greatest going back on. Depending on the area of the country they rust and it’s a good time to replace. Finally, and one of the most important reasons to me, if you are doing a reseal then you are doing the RMS. If you do an RMS with the oil pan on then you need to horizontally assembly the components with RTV. If you do the RMS with the oil pan off and then put the oil pan on you get to vertically assemble and get a “nicer” and more uniform bead assembly.

 

[hacked89]

I thought about just going to the 7.3 when I did the rebuild as I have one that runs but has a slight tick somewhere in the motor. But from what I have researched I decided to stay with the 6.9 and put a turbo on it mainly because of less cavitation problems from the thicker cylinder walls.
I know that sounds like an odd reason for my choice but the power benefit to me doesn't over come the benefit of something I don't need to worry about nearly as much for a long lasting motor.
I have some up coming trips planned over the next 4 to 5 years and am planning on using this truck. One of those trips will be over 10k miles round trip going up to Alaska in it pulling a gooseneck horse trailer converted to an RV. My other option is buying a new truck and I don't want to get back into payments anymore. It's been nice over the last 5 years not having payments in that department.
I also don't think I can get away with blending used motor oil for fuel in anything newer and I have enjoyed having reduced fuel costs. That was my primary reason for going with the IDI's to begin with. I gave up driving a 2008 f150 crew cab for an IDI. The only thing I miss is the larger cab but I have compensated for that and it's not an issue anymore.

Cavitation is overstated, but I’m glad your happy with your decision. Most cavitated 7.3s are long dead.

 

[Jesus Freak]

@hacked89 why replace the oil pan?

One word..... cupholders...... The steel in the original factory pans can be cut and shaped into superior beverage holders.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

(I'll never claim to be the brightest light bulb in the pack).

I am! At least until someone turns on the lights.

Also would you risk putting a turbo on the motor? I have a Banks sidewinder I planned on for this truck when I put the fresh motor in.

You won't have any issues running this set up with either engine as long as it's not modified for extra boost. I would definitely stud the 6.9 that you're going to build. The 7.3 wouldn't have to be seeing as how it's going to be temporary. If you don't want to stud the 7.3, you may want to retorque the head bolts while the engine's out on a stand. Sometimes, the bolts can loosen up a little bit so it's just a safety precaution to retorque the head bolts.

I know that sounds like an odd reason for my choice

Not really. The 6.9 is a fine engine as long as you're not trying to get huge boost numbers.

One of those trips will be over 10k miles round trip going up to Alaska in it pulling a gooseneck horse trailer converted to an RV.

With a turbo 6.9, I don't see any reasons why you'll have issues with doing this.

My other option is buying a new truck and I don't want to get back into payments anymore. It's been nice over the last 5 years not having payments in that department.

I don't recommend that anyone buys a new truck. The prices are plumb ridiculous! I feel that if everyone would just stop buying new cars and trucks for two years, then the prices would be reduced by at least 1/3. Maybe even by 1/2. And the not having payments? That's just plain AWESOME! Why do you want to work for your truck (in this case)? All you're doing by buying new is working to make the payments. I say make it work for you! Use it how you want to and not have to make any payments on it. That's why I've had my blue Truck since Jan 2013, and my red Truck since Aug 2011.
The exception to all of that would be if you were going to use the new truck for a business. Especially if you're going to put a lot of miles on it. Then it makes more sense to buy new.
These days, most people see new vehicles as status symbols. I see them as being a slave to your vehicle just to "get" to drive it. I'll guarantee that I couldn't be able to live how I like to on my income if I had to make big car/truck/house payments every month.

 

[Nero]

What, you don't want to spend $120k on a king ranch crew cab long bed 6.7 powerstroke dually that you'll lift, put big ugly low profile rims on them, then pavement princess drive it until it gets repo'd?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

NOT ME!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And do they really cost that much? I haven't cared enough to look. It wouldn't surprise me if they do.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

NOT ME!

If you don't believe this, just look at my profile at the vehicle descriptions.

 

[Nero]

I guess I may have massaged those numbers a little, they start off around $70k and go up from there.