pafixitman
Registered User
You got the pump and return lines? It would be ideal since Mel could time it after the install. Given the people that will be there, they should be able to get it done. Sorry to say I will not be one of them.
Didn't want to post just yet
- Thread starter payableondeath6
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payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
I don't have anything right now. But I have a line on a rebuilt pump through a member on here for $250 (would have to ship) or I can pick up an IP from AutoZone for $400, so I should definitely be able to have an IP pre-rally.
Where would I get the return lines? Is it just fuel line like I can buy in bulk? Couldn't find it online at my 3 regular shops (AutoZone, Advanced, and RockAuto). Would it be something found at the bottom of the page here: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/0103.asp ?
I'd love to get it timed up right and learn a thing or two, or three, or more
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Try MWFI.com for the return lines. You're close so they should only take a day to get em to ya. Great service and close.
payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
Looked there after you posted, either they don't have it or I don't know what I'm looking for? http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/nav_73.htmTry MWFI.com for the return lines. You're close so they should only take a day to get em to ya. Great service and close.
Also, will I need the "Pump Installation Kit" too?
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Injector install kit part #OTHDPE69120 from MWFI is what you need for big ugly.
payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
Ok, thanks. "Big ugly"Injector install kit part #OTHDPE69120 from MWFI is what you need for big ugly.
that's what my wife and I have called it since we bought it I sent an email to Bryant at MWFI asking a ton of questions, hopefully I hear back from them. If so, and I can get it by the wife
I'll likely be ordering the injector install kit, pump install kit, Isspro EGT gauge, and 1/2 gallon of the Stanadyne Performance Jr. additive....whew, that's a tall order 
I asked if there was a OB member discount too 
payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
Should be making my order here this week, and then next week I'll be ordering the IP from DieselRecon. Unfortunately I'm not going to be able to make it to the rally 
But after reading Mel's fuel servicing article and looking at the Haynes it looks like something I should be able to do without to much 
Then I'll be looking for someplace to time it up for me right, thought about calling Columbus Diesel Supply (http://www.columbusdieselsupply.com/) and seeing if they would do it 
Got a chance to look at the steering, didn't see the "rag joint" at all, but the play looked to be coming from the gear box...input shaft turns so far, and the outputs didn't turn nearly as far. So I'm guessing I should start at the backlash adjustment screw? Found this method to adjusting it (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0a/9f/55/0900823d800a9f55.jsp) but was wondering if anyone could put that into common english for me If not I can just follow the directions to a "T" and I'm sure I won't screw it up too bad 
Also seems the DMF noise is getting worse upon neutral idle (almost always hold the clutch in now b/c of noise) and there is a different noise even with the clutch pedal depressed at idle, seems to fit the bill for a bad DMF according to what I've read as it goes away with a little of the accelerator pedal. As it's been a while since I've been in a RWD standard transmission vehicle and never did a clutch/flywheel job on that one (1962 Studebaker Lark, my first car) I ask that you take it easy on me. I assume I have to drop the transmission for the work to be done, I've got family with a tranny jack and lots of wrench turning experience so we can likely couple his know-how and my young body to get the job done But what do I need to buy? I'm assuming it would be worthwhile to replace the clutch and everything while taking care of the DMF failure, right? Which should I go with, I'm a little confused, would it be better to buy the whole SMF kit for $575 (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dualMassFlywheel.htm) or do I do the "Lucky" mod and get just the clutch kit? If I do the "Lucky" mod do I get the DMF clutch kit (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/07-076.shtml) for $185 or the SMF one (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dualMassFlywheel.htm) for $325?
But after reading Mel's fuel servicing article and looking at the Haynes it looks like something I should be able to do without to much Then I'll be looking for someplace to time it up for me right, thought about calling Columbus Diesel Supply (http://www.columbusdieselsupply.com/) and seeing if they would do it Got a chance to look at the steering, didn't see the "rag joint" at all, but the play looked to be coming from the gear box...input shaft turns so far, and the outputs didn't turn nearly as far. So I'm guessing I should start at the backlash adjustment screw? Found this method to adjusting it (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0a/9f/55/0900823d800a9f55.jsp) but was wondering if anyone could put that into common english for me
If not I can just follow the directions to a "T" and I'm sure I won't screw it up too bad Also seems the DMF noise is getting worse upon neutral idle (almost always hold the clutch in now b/c of noise) and there is a different noise even with the clutch pedal depressed at idle, seems to fit the bill for a bad DMF according to what I've read as it goes away with a little of the accelerator pedal. As it's been a while since I've been in a RWD standard transmission vehicle and never did a clutch/flywheel job on that one (1962 Studebaker Lark, my first car) I ask that you take it easy on me. I assume I have to drop the transmission for the work to be done, I've got family with a tranny jack and lots of wrench turning experience so we can likely couple his know-how and my young body to get the job done
But what do I need to buy? I'm assuming it would be worthwhile to replace the clutch and everything while taking care of the DMF failure, right? Which should I go with, I'm a little confused, would it be better to buy the whole SMF kit for $575 (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dualMassFlywheel.htm) or do I do the "Lucky" mod and get just the clutch kit? If I do the "Lucky" mod do I get the DMF clutch kit (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/07-076.shtml) for $185 or the SMF one (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/dualMassFlywheel.htm) for $325?
with the hard to get into 1st and rev problem sounds like the pressure plate is not releasing the clutch all the way, and for the noise at idle with the clutch released, and when you push the clutch in the noise changes it could be the clutch release bearing (throw out bearing) going out on you too. and as for me if im going to change a clutch and go through all the trouble of pulling it down might as well do it all while its down than have to go back into it again a little later on. change clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and would bring the flywheel somewhere and have it resurfaced. as for as the slack in the steering i would almost bet its the rag joint thats your prob. didnt you say that the power steering was leaking real bad before you bought the truck, if so the power steering fluid will really do a number on the rag joint. mine was so bad it was a job in its self to keep the truck on the road, and if it is the rag joint i would change it asap. when my tire blew out at 70mph there was nothing i could do but hit the ditch not to fun.
payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
Okay, seems to make enough sense to me. Does a "clutch kit" come with all that stuff (pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing)? Which clutch would I order if I want to do the "Lucky" mod to the DMF, or should I just order the $575 Luk SMF conversion clutch kit?
Like I said I couldn't find this "rag joint", anyone have a picture of it's location or could describe about how far down the steering shaft it is? I'll take another look tonight when I get a chance.
Thanks for all the continued help
I'm not sure the $575 LUK kit includes those extra bearings, but it might. I've never bought one. Naturally, if you have that kind of money to throw at the problem, it's a no-brainer. The Lucky Mod is the affordable alternative for those who can't afford the LUK.
payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
So, if I'm reading the "Lucky" mod right I use the DMF clutch with it. So I could order this for $185 and then drill out and bolt up the DMF and I'd be good to go? Just a question for those who've done the "Lucky" mod, about how hard would you rate it (like say 1 is filling the gas tank/changing air filter, 10 is removing and rebuilding engine)?
It's much easier for me to part with $185 than $575
OR
Is it worth the extra to have a Luk clutch? Don't know if it has any differences with an OEM replacement, maybe a little more heavy duty, just don't know much about manual transmission upgrades.
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payableondeath6
Impressively Ugly
I'm going to flush/fill the coolant out as soon as I get a chance. I'm going to pick up the Napa 186*F thermostat and go with all SCA pre-added coolant. Guess after changing the oil/filter and seeing it was almost a gallon low
I'm not putting anything up to chance (new Rotella T and psd filter). Fuel filter hopefully today (fill with PowerService Plus), drain and refill/overfill the tranny tomorrow hopefully (SAE40).I don't have my manual on me, is it 3.5 gallons of coolant? Haven't been to Napa for a while, do they carry a premixed SCA coolant, anyone know?
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