Clutch pedal stiff & doesn’t engage the clutch when depressed, also pedal gets stuck when coming back out?

[Kingralph88]

Op
Put your trucks specs in your sig line so we can see what we're working on...

1985 F250 XLT Lariat 6.9 IDI 4 Speed T-19 OD w/ ATS Turbo

You most likely wont need a true clutch kit.
It's definitely the pedal assembly .
Look closer at the spot the upper pedals hang from while you are pushing down the clutch pedal.
Bullnose trucks are different from the above pic. Similar but different...

Ok yes I will take a pic as well and post when I am there next, I wish I had a working assembly and could see what it should look like. I’ve never really looked down there when pushing in the clutch when working properly.

Are the fasteners tight on the master and the slave cyl?

The master cylinder looks pretty rusty & original, I did not check fitment of the fasteners. I did open the lid for filling the slave cylinder & it was full of oil still. The oil around the cap is my doing, I took the black plastic sleeve out and it was sitting in the oil.

I took at pic of the slave cylinder when I was under but did not check for fitment (did not know what I was looking at until now). I think it was replaced sometime recent? It looks newish compared to the rest, also not sure how they should look normally (white plastic piece looks funky?)

 

[Clb]

The white plastic is a socket /bushing for the pushrod to clutch arm socket. Sorta like a lubricant.
Grab the cyl and see if its loose, it should have a tiny bit of flex (1/16" ish) not 1/4" ...

 

[KansasIDI]

The 4 speeds float pretty well, but the 5 speeds really don't like it.

Yeah. When my 86 had a 4 speed I only used the clutch for starting off, otherwise I just floated through the gears, so easy it almost felt like it was meant to be floated, though it’s not. Then after I 5 speed swapped that truck, was a lot tougher to get the gears lined up. I have only tried it a couple times in my 91, always went fine but not really worth it. Could get myself home float shifting probably but no real reason, it shifts so nice anyways. Plus my Dodge has an NV4500 which you should never ever float shift, those carbon fiber synchronizers are very sensitive and you just don’t want to do that, the synchros will block your floated shifts because they are so dang tight. I really don’t like the gear gap between 3rd and 4th on the NV4500s, they are kind of an overrated trans to be honest…

I really like the S5-47 ZF5 in my 91 service truck, that’s the perfect gear gap in my mind.

 

[DaveBen]

Kingralph88 go to your User name in the black line at the top of the page and click on your User name. Select "Signature" and add your details on your truck. Doing this will stop all of us from asking what year, etc. Everyone who posts here should do this!

 

[Clb]

Kingralph88 go to your User name in the black line at the top of the page and click on your User name. Select "Signature" and add your details on your truck. Doing this will stop all of us from asking what year, etc. Everyone who posts here should do this!

Eta
Hay
What is up with the sig lines?

 

[Kingralph88]

I put a signature but doesn’t show up here?

 

[Kingralph88]

The white plastic is a socket /bushing for the pushrod to clutch arm socket. Sorta like a lubricant.
Grab the cyl and see if its loose, it should have a tiny bit of flex (1/16" ish) not 1/4" ...

I’m going to do some research and see what looks normal, so I can compare & see how the cylinders move when the clutch is pressed in, does the slave push the arm here (check attached photo where circled) and this did engages the clutch?

 

[Clb]

Yes

 

[Clb]

Bullnose guys...
Is that the right slave cyl.???

Does the length of the throw on that last pic seem long?
The clutch fork usually rests @90 deg to crankshaft centerline longitudinal like?yes?

 

[KansasIDI]

Bullnose guys...
Is that the right slave cyl.???

Does the length of the throw on that last pic seem long?
The clutch fork usually rests @90 deg to crankshaft centerline longitudinal like?yes?

I used my T19 slave cylinder on a ZF5 in my 86, never had problems, barely a difference in clutch feel. Ymmv

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I would disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the lever on the pedal bracket assembly up under the dash. That way you can see if the clutch pedal moves normally when it’s not connected to anything. This should tell you whether the problem is in the pedal assembly or farther down the line (clutch hydraulics or throwout bearing lever)

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I put a signature but doesn’t show up here?

I can see it just fine. You can't see it when you're writing a post. If you look at the post after being posted, you can see the signature.

I used my T19 slave cylinder on a ZF5 in my 86, never had problems, barely a difference in clutch feel.

Same here. Twice. Actually three times if you count when I robbed the parts off of the Red Wreck and put them on my Bronco.

 

[Clb]

Here's my 93 for comparison.
Notice that the rod,clutch fork,and cyl. Housing are all square at 90 degrees to eack other...

Kinda wondering, what did Mr. Farmer say?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Looking at the two pictures of Ralph's and Clb's slave cylinders, it's pretty obvious that Ralph's is sticking out almost all the way. I'm not saying that it's a wrong slave cylinder, but something's causing this to happen.

 

[Clb]

Op
Try this...
Hook up your bleeder to the slave cyl., then crack the bleeder, then try and shove the pushrod back into the cylinder all the way in.
If it goes in smoothly good.

Careful about the pressure plate tension.
Rebleed and test.

If it's notchy it probably extended past the throw and needs removal and reassembling.