Can’t fully push in clutch pedal all of a sudden

[onetonjohn]

There is an inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing. There are several bolts including two easy ones on the bottom and a couple on the front including one up by the starter (or in some other place that's harder to get). Once you pull that you may be able to see if your fingers on the pressure plate are even (you might need to spin the flywheel with a screwdriver or a flywheel moving tool (if you have one). Can remember if you can see the TO bearing or slide it on the collar to see if it has excessive wobble (wollered collar) or just gummed up. I probably wouldn't bother, but it's something you can check - and you have to pull the cover to get the trans out anyway. Assuming you need a clutch - Replace the dual mass flywheel monstrosity with the Luk flywheel replacement. Be sure to resurface flywheel if you didn't get the Luk one (it already had it), only buy a Luk clutch, there is a wollered collar fix kit that has steel sleeve - get this if needed. Grease the pivot ball - but run that plastic bearing dry. Don't forget to replace the piolot bearing - grease this one. Check rear main seal while your there. I did mention to only by NEW Luk clutch kit? Should upgrade to the 12 inch one if that's not the one the part guy looks up.

 

[rreegg]

Finally got the truck towed back to my place. Took a while to figure out the most reasonable course of action. Will start a new thread as necessary for clutch work etc. continuing to work on a fix myself is making the most sense

 

[onetonjohn]

May want a friend around to help you get trans/transfer case out. I split them cause they are heavy for me. It also makes stabbing the transmission on the way in easier.

 

[rreegg]

I bailed on diy this but gave it a solid try. No driveway at the moment and too challenging to work on the side of the road for the clutch r/r. Additionally I had read about guys having issues with the exhaust being in the way.

Anyhoo clutch shop just called and problem was the disc springs had fallen and were preventing dis/engagement.

They said the exhaust did need to be cut - fine by me.

Should be able to pick up today/tomorrow and be back in the saddle.

 

[rreegg]

Back to farting around and burning oyl

 

[Nero]

Back to farting around and burning oyl

Just put the spring back in with a lil gum and call er good

 

[rreegg]

Just put the spring back in with a lil gum and call er good

Gum is a better idea all I could think of was a zip tie

 

[onetonjohn]

But how? You new to driving clutch? Doing burnouts? They don't just pop out by themselves....

 

[rreegg]

The SMF clutch feel sure is soft. Roll over noise is less than expected though but mostly just kind of funny.

But how? You new to driving clutch? Doing burnouts?

Been driving manual since before i got my driver license, never owned an automatic. Parallel parked on a slight hill in front my gf's house night before it broke. Possibly the forward/reverse parking is what finally did it - but this was the original DMF from '88 so it's old anyway.

The captive housing for the spring broke so must've been a stress thing i'm assuming. Doubt it's corrosion related so not really sure the root cause

 

[rreegg]

You must be registered for see images attach

I think the spring itself had dislodged and was physically blocking movement

 

[Clb]

Dat's some catastrophic failure right there.
Imagine the amount of ?What? it took to delaminate that hub...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But how? You new to driving clutch? Doing burnouts? They don't just pop out by themselves....

Well Kansasidi did manage to explode a ZF5 and send schrapnel into his leg. That doesn't happen very often either.

but this was the original DMF from '88 so it's old anyway.

It might just be age related. Maybe stress related like you said.