I've been having some problems with the clutch in my 1990 F250 7.3 idi project truck. When I got the truck back on the road after it sat for 7 years on a local farm, the clutch worked fine. It had just been replaced when the truck's oil cooler went out 8 years ago, which was why it the truck was parked.
My goal is to rebuild the truck as needed in order to get it to dependable daily driver status, so I've been proactive about replacing typical wear components. So when the clutch started acting up, I opted to replace the clutch MC and slave cylinder, so that I hopefully don't have to fool with them again.
But there was still some wear that developed in the clutch linkage attached to the pivot rod from the clutch pedal itself. Since I had to replace part of the linkage, I opted to purchase one of the spherical rod ends that Bronco Graveyard sells for the clutch MC pushrod.
If you've never had to remove the pushrod from your clutch master cylinder while it's installed - count yourself lucky. What an increcible PIA it was to get the rod out. There is a plastic retention clip that holds the bulbed end of the pushrod into the master cylinder, and springing the clip open while working under the dash was not something that I look forward to ever doing again. Internet advice suggested modifying the plastic cylinder from a BIC pen to engage the clip, but I had no luck with that because I couldn't exert enough force on the plastic sleeve in order to open up the retention clip in the MC.
I ended up machining something out of aluminum with a lip on it I could push into place with my fingers. Below is a pic of what I made, shown along with the push rod after removal. Worked great and I had the rod removed in about a minute.
Since I had to modify the push rod in order to install the spherical rod end, I figured that I'd make it adjustable. Here is what I came up with. The threaded portion emanating from the rod end is from a 3/8-24 grade 8 bolt. It's a nice tight fit into the rod end. After cutting off the bolt head I ground a flat on one side of the smooth portion of the shank for the set screw to lock it into the rod end. The nut is machined from a piece of 5/8" bar stock and I machined a slight recess into the end for a .005 interference fit of the original MC pushrod. After alignment and insertion (heated the barrel to expand it before pressing) I brazed the two together.
I'm glad that I made it adjustable, because after reinstalling in the OEM length the clutch was still a bit wonky. Adjusting it about 1/4" longer made it work perfect. Here's the finished piece with the new linkage attached.
Next major project is to replace the bad AC compressor, along with the orifice and dryer. After that it will be time to rebuild the front end. I've already done the brakes and wheel bearings; what's left are all of the suspension wear items.
I'm hoping to pick up a set of the GM Towing mirrors from Complete Performance to replace the factory mirrors, but they appear to be currently out of stock of the dual plate mounting kit required for the Bricknose. Hopefully they will have some back in stock soon.
Scott
My goal is to rebuild the truck as needed in order to get it to dependable daily driver status, so I've been proactive about replacing typical wear components. So when the clutch started acting up, I opted to replace the clutch MC and slave cylinder, so that I hopefully don't have to fool with them again.
But there was still some wear that developed in the clutch linkage attached to the pivot rod from the clutch pedal itself. Since I had to replace part of the linkage, I opted to purchase one of the spherical rod ends that Bronco Graveyard sells for the clutch MC pushrod.
If you've never had to remove the pushrod from your clutch master cylinder while it's installed - count yourself lucky. What an increcible PIA it was to get the rod out. There is a plastic retention clip that holds the bulbed end of the pushrod into the master cylinder, and springing the clip open while working under the dash was not something that I look forward to ever doing again. Internet advice suggested modifying the plastic cylinder from a BIC pen to engage the clip, but I had no luck with that because I couldn't exert enough force on the plastic sleeve in order to open up the retention clip in the MC.
I ended up machining something out of aluminum with a lip on it I could push into place with my fingers. Below is a pic of what I made, shown along with the push rod after removal. Worked great and I had the rod removed in about a minute.
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Since I had to modify the push rod in order to install the spherical rod end, I figured that I'd make it adjustable. Here is what I came up with. The threaded portion emanating from the rod end is from a 3/8-24 grade 8 bolt. It's a nice tight fit into the rod end. After cutting off the bolt head I ground a flat on one side of the smooth portion of the shank for the set screw to lock it into the rod end. The nut is machined from a piece of 5/8" bar stock and I machined a slight recess into the end for a .005 interference fit of the original MC pushrod. After alignment and insertion (heated the barrel to expand it before pressing) I brazed the two together.
You must be registered for see images attach
I'm glad that I made it adjustable, because after reinstalling in the OEM length the clutch was still a bit wonky. Adjusting it about 1/4" longer made it work perfect. Here's the finished piece with the new linkage attached.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next major project is to replace the bad AC compressor, along with the orifice and dryer. After that it will be time to rebuild the front end. I've already done the brakes and wheel bearings; what's left are all of the suspension wear items.
I'm hoping to pick up a set of the GM Towing mirrors from Complete Performance to replace the factory mirrors, but they appear to be currently out of stock of the dual plate mounting kit required for the Bricknose. Hopefully they will have some back in stock soon.
Scott
