ih8minimumwage
Full Access Member
I've literally just used a regular combo and a short DBE offset wrench for my IP every time. Loosen all three, advance pump, crank one down to hold, check timing (Ferret) and adjust.
Blueish white smoke when accelerating
- Thread starter RSchanz
- Start date
RSchanz
Full Access Member
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
For the nut on the passenger's side, it may help to remove the fast idle solenoid first. That will give you some extra room. It's just the return spring and two 1/4" bolts that take a 7/16" tool to remove.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sort of. Retarded timing was my first thought after reading your first post.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Injection pump is loosened but I can’t get the thing to budge at all! When I broke the top loose it actually moved about 1mm towards driver side
quickster
Full Access Member
That because your hard line are holding it over. Might have to loosen some of them up on the pump. loosen just enough to get some movement. If you open it up a bunch, you'll need to crack some injectors to bleed air before starting.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
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Moved it just a tad passenger. See below:
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Should it go further or is that a significant enough move?
Last edited:
gandalf
Senior Member
Based solely on my engine, by comparison with my engine, that should be about right. That being said, be aware that no two engines are quite alike, and that those alignment marks are only starting points. They make the engine run, all other things being equal, but require further adjustment. You'd really benefit by using a timing meter.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Think, I’ll just see if the white/blue smoke calms down when I’m putting a decent amount of weight on the pedal and the go from there. Still going to replace CDRV at the end of the month when the parts come.
Also plan on pulling the gp’s doing compression test and leak down and also inspecting valves etc.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Tightened it back up this morning. Still smokes a bit but really only when I’m gassing it in third. Amateur here and I know it could be other things but could it be that when I’m hitting it harder in third the air intake is sucking in more air and the CDR is going bad therefore more oil is being sucked in?
I don’t think the cdr has totally gone to **** because the air filter is drenched or anything mostly just the stud that holds it on has oil on it.
I don’t think the cdr has totally gone to **** because the air filter is drenched or anything mostly just the stud that holds it on has oil on it.
gandalf
Senior Member
Lets see whether I have this right, the current condition. The engine isn't smoking too badly when you accelerate through 1st and 2nd. When you continue acceleration in 3rd you get some smoke. To be honest, that sounds almost normal to me. That smoke decreases as the engine speed increases. If that is the case I'd say you're looking at unburned fuel coming out the exhaust.
Remember that the engine is able to burn a certain amount of fuel at any given engine RPM. As the engine shifts into 3rd the RPM drops, but at the same time you want to keep accelerating so you have the go pedal half way or more to the floor. The amount of fuel being fed into the engine is determined by that go pedal. You're giving it more fuel, but the RPM hasn't caught up with the amount of fuel being fed. The fuel/air mixture is very rich at that point. The engine is working hard to translate that rich mixture into power, to increase RPM and therefore speed. As the RPM/speed increase the smoke should decrease. If this is the case I'd say you're running about normal.
Check the smoke when you cruising in your top gear, not acceleration. There should be no smoke, or only a very slight haze at more. If you're putting out more than a haze you might consider turning down the amount of fuel, adjusting the fuel screw in the IP.
You should still have the engine timed with a meter. The timing will also effect all this. If you have a shop time the engine ask first how they do the timing. If they say, "We do that by ear." find another shop. The only way to truly time the engine is with a meter.
Does this make sense to you? I've written this without re-reading the 55 posts already here, so I may have skipped or overlooked something.
Remember that the engine is able to burn a certain amount of fuel at any given engine RPM. As the engine shifts into 3rd the RPM drops, but at the same time you want to keep accelerating so you have the go pedal half way or more to the floor. The amount of fuel being fed into the engine is determined by that go pedal. You're giving it more fuel, but the RPM hasn't caught up with the amount of fuel being fed. The fuel/air mixture is very rich at that point. The engine is working hard to translate that rich mixture into power, to increase RPM and therefore speed. As the RPM/speed increase the smoke should decrease. If this is the case I'd say you're running about normal.
Check the smoke when you cruising in your top gear, not acceleration. There should be no smoke, or only a very slight haze at more. If you're putting out more than a haze you might consider turning down the amount of fuel, adjusting the fuel screw in the IP.
You should still have the engine timed with a meter. The timing will also effect all this. If you have a shop time the engine ask first how they do the timing. If they say, "We do that by ear." find another shop. The only way to truly time the engine is with a meter.
Does this make sense to you? I've written this without re-reading the 55 posts already here, so I may have skipped or overlooked something.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Everything you’re saying is accurate. It basically started with me thinking the smoke had possibly started to get worse and I began to research what may be causing that. When I delved into it the whole CDR valve/oil on stud situation came up. Bronco suggested just advancing the timing a bit to see if it helped. This is my first diesel and I’m most likely over-exaggerating the smoke because I’m just not used to any.
I mean there was enough smoke to be leaving the classic black soot on the bumper and back panel. I’m assuming this is pretty standard for an old school diesel especially
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It sure is.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Whether it's actually the cause of the issue it's been good to learn about it.
Decent timing light for these trucks? I'm sure it's much cheaper for me to do it and probably not too hard...
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It's not that hard to do, but you need an adapter that senses the fuel pulses in the injector lines and a timing light that is compatible with it.
