1989 7.3idi n/a hard hot start/no start when warm??

Gwhise

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UPDATE: I have been daily driving the truck for the last week trying to recreate the no hot start problem up until today.

Got home and truck was at operating temp, let sit for maybe ten min went to start it up again and nothing. Grabbed a bottle of room temp water and poured over top of ip.

Truck instantly started after doing this, and this problem reoccurred 4times in a row. Would park truck warm and no start, dump water on ip and fires right up.

In conclusion I will be looking into a new injection pump and will get on the timing reg and find someone nearby. My only question now is will I be able to drive the truck after ip is replaced before timing is done? Or do I have to replace ip and time before it will run again because I live in Sacramento and closest person to me is in marysville I believe.

Please let me know thank you all very much for pointing me in the correct direction.
Will also be reinstalling rear tank and new sending unit and unsing only rear until I can find a front sending unit. Thank you all
 

Brian VT

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My only question now is will I be able to drive the truck after ip is replaced before timing is done? Or do I have to replace ip and time before it will run again...
You can time it close enough to run decent without the meter. Many don't even bother with, or even know about, the meter. So no hurry there.
But it will run better and get better mileage when properly timed.
Btw, you're welcome to stop by and use my meter any time. ;-)
 

Big Bart

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Will also be reinstalling rear tank and new sending unit and unsing only rear until I can find a front sending unit. Thank you all
The nose on your IP has an alignment mark at 12 o clock and so does the pump cover. You start there so you can start it. You can move it two dime thicknesses (1/8”) at a time towards the passenger side fender. If it starts, idles, and runs better, do it again, rinse and repeat till your butt dyno says you are close. Remember you do not move the IP when its running. (Read up below.) You may have to loosen the injector lines if you need to move it very far.

Just watch your temp, if the timing is too far off they can run hot on the hwy. Your clue to move it again either way til, the heating issue stops.

Here is some info to read that can help you out.



 
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Jesus Freak

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UPDATE: I have been daily driving the truck for the last week trying to recreate the no hot start problem up until today.

Got home and truck was at operating temp, let sit for maybe ten min went to start it up again and nothing. Grabbed a bottle of room temp water and poured over top of ip.

Truck instantly started after doing this, and this problem reoccurred 4times in a row. Would park truck warm and no start, dump water on ip and fires right up.

In conclusion I will be looking into a new injection pump and will get on the timing reg and find someone nearby. My only question now is will I be able to drive the truck after ip is replaced before timing is done? Or do I have to replace ip and time before it will run again because I live in Sacramento and closest person to me is in marysville I believe.

Please let me know thank you all very much for pointing me in the correct direction.
Make a good mark of where it was when you pull the IP off and put the other back on in the same place and you'll be fine. I did it and haven't timed mine and it's fine. At some point you'll want to time it, but you can definitely wait.
 

Old Goat

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Will also be reinstalling rear tank and new sending unit and using only rear until I can find a front sending unit. Thank you all

These guys sell Sending units...I didn`t look up your year model etc...


and these guys, looks like their inventory isn`t much for senders.


If you are going to replace your rear tank, good time to upgrade to a Spectra F26E 38 gallon.


Goat
 

Gwhise

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These guys sell Sending units...I didn`t look up your year model etc...


and these guys, looks like their inventory isn`t much for senders.


If you are going to replace your rear tank, good time to upgrade to a Spectra F26E 38 gallon.


Goat
I will definitely look into the 38 gal rear will check those sites too thanks very much
 

Old Goat

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I will definitely look into the 38 gal rear will check those sites too thanks very much

If you do go the 38 gal route, you will need to add to the pick up tube. I used copper tube and compression fittings.

With the sending unit, I used a new one and added (I think) about 5" to the wire the float attaches to.
You may need to tweek the wire some to get the gauge to read properly.

I had 20 gallons of fuel to add to the tank on initial fill so could fiddle with the fuel level on the gauge.

It is close enough. 400 miles and I add some where around 15 - 17 or so gallons. I try to keep the top 1/2 full.


Goat
 

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