gnathv
Full Access Member
Do not adjust with it running.
Blueish white smoke when accelerating
- Thread starter RSchanz
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Unfortunately, it's not on all of the IPs.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I know I’m not the smartest mechanic but am I the only idiot who can’t seem to figure out how to fit something in there to loosen these nuts? Do I need to remove stuff to do this? Am I not thinking of the correct tool? Currently trying to work a 9/16 open ended wrench in and it’s clanking into everything.
Also, marks visible here and you can see two. Looks like someone has possibly retarded the IP from where it was and I'm going to nearly bring it back or they were having an issue and tried advancing and it didn't help.
Also, marks visible here and you can see two. Looks like someone has possibly retarded the IP from where it was and I'm going to nearly bring it back or they were having an issue and tried advancing and it didn't help.
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Last edited:
quickster
Full Access Member
You're gonna have a hard time with the return line there. Get a stubby 9/16, and see if you need to grind it thin to fit. You're going to have fun with that. I replaced the hard return line when I did the o rings and caps. Went with the 7.3 style, and ran the return to the #2 injector specifically for that reason.
that 3/4 square casting can be a royal pita.
i use an IP wrench
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RSchanz
Full Access Member
Maybe it’s a good time to move that hard line. I see a couple people on YouTube videos using a rubber hose instead of hard and going to #2
quickster
Full Access Member
You're going to have to replace the brass fitting in the back. 3 way instead of 4 . IIRC.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Hmmm, what might actually be easier is just disconnecting the hard line from the IP while I'm making the adjustment. Seem like a ridiculous idea?
gandalf
Senior Member
I've got a couple remarks to add here. Dealing with the 3 nuts holding the IP in place can be problematic. Rotunda, I believe it is, makes a wrench specifically for the job. It's bottom center in the below picture. Right above it is their tool for rotating the IP.
An option to the above wrench, since that kit is made of unobtainium, is to fashion your own wrench. You'll need a grinder and a torch to bend a normal box end wrench.
My final comment for the morning. The timing marks for the IP, between the IP itself and the gear tower it is mounted to, are not exact. They are only a starting point. They will get the engine running, though it will still need to be timed properly. You'll need a timing meter, and the ability to rotate the IP, for which you'll need the proper wrench. Warning: NEVER try to adjust the timing with the IP nuts loose. Be sure those nuts are tight when you start the engine. The final picture shows where I have my engine adjusted. It seems to run well, but I did the job without a timing meter. I did it by ear, which is not the recommended way to do it. I'm still looking for a good timing meter. This picture also shows the 3/4 inch knob you can use to turn the IP.
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An option to the above wrench, since that kit is made of unobtainium, is to fashion your own wrench. You'll need a grinder and a torch to bend a normal box end wrench.
You must be registered for see images attach
My final comment for the morning. The timing marks for the IP, between the IP itself and the gear tower it is mounted to, are not exact. They are only a starting point. They will get the engine running, though it will still need to be timed properly. You'll need a timing meter, and the ability to rotate the IP, for which you'll need the proper wrench. Warning: NEVER try to adjust the timing with the IP nuts loose. Be sure those nuts are tight when you start the engine. The final picture shows where I have my engine adjusted. It seems to run well, but I did the job without a timing meter. I did it by ear, which is not the recommended way to do it. I'm still looking for a good timing meter. This picture also shows the 3/4 inch knob you can use to turn the IP.
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gnathv
Full Access Member
gallery
This is a good wrench to grind for ip also
9/16 obstruction wrench
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This is a good wrench to grind for ip also
9/16 obstruction wrench
my preferred method is do away with all those olive seals. i hate them and dont want anything to do with them.
and you have to reconnect that line after, to test.
ive also done what you said, and make sure the rear 2 return lines are still attached when youre done.
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RSchanz
Full Access Member
Just did the return lines, might need to re-visit this. I ground down the closed end of the wrench but ran out of time to make the adjustment. It seems like the wrench should work fine without bending it.
that is not gonna cut it for the passenger side lower nut. trust me.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
the open end on the left is what i use for that nut
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