Blueish white smoke when accelerating

[RSchanz]

If you plan on keeping the truck, definitely look into a pump and injectors. But you might want to do a compression check and leak down test. I just went thru the " my truck blows smoke on hard acceleration or going up steeps" blues. I replaced my pump, and injectors and that didn't fix the issue. I did a compression test and had all the cylinders around 475psi except for one. Did a leak down test and I could hear air passing thru the exhaust manifold. That was on the low cylinder. Turns out I had valve recession and bad guides. Had the heads totally rebuilt- new valves, guides,etc. Truck is smoke free now. Just something to consider before you start throwing a ton of money at it.

Thanks for the advice. Actually my plan is pretty much that. I'm going to just replace the CDR valve because it's cheap, easy and harmless. Did you do the compression test yourself? Where did you get the kit? I was thinking of just pulling all the GP's inspecting them and doing a compression test while I'm at it. I found the instructions on how to do so in a Tech article. I think it makes more sense to do this before doing IP and injectors despite the fact that they are kind of an obvious job in the future.

 

[quickster]

Yeah, I did the tests. I picked up a HF tester for diesel cheap. It worked fine. Then you can determine what to do next. Once I found the bad hole, I picked up a HB leak down tester( I don't have $$ for expensive tools), and I had to make a hack to get it to work. Used some parts from the compression tester to make it work. If you hear the compressed air making it's way out of the exhaust manifold , you know you have head problems. If you get bubbles in your coolant, then you know it's the head gasket. If you hear a lot of noise from the oil fill it could be your rings or ring gaps. I pulled my valve cover, and rocker arms on the bad hole to make sure the valves were closed while testing.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just for fun, why don't you try advancing your IP timing a little bit and see what that does.

 

[RSchanz]

Yeah, I did the tests. I picked up a HF tester for diesel cheap. It worked fine. Then you can determine what to do next. Once I found the bad hole, I picked up a HB leak down tester( I don't have $$ for expensive tools), and I had to make a hack to get it to work. Used some parts from the compression tester to make it work. If you hear the compressed air making it's way out of the exhaust manifold , you know you have head problems. If you get bubbles in your coolant, then you know it's the head gasket. If you hear a lot of noise from the oil fill it could be your rings or ring gaps. I pulled my valve cover, and rocker arms on the bad hole to make sure the valves were closed while testing.

Awesome. I read that some of the HF compression testers have an issue with the attachment fitting into the GP hole. I'm guessing you didn't have this problem? Do you know which one exactly that you got? I think they have a couple of kits and one person mentioned that the 14pc kit worked correctly but I only saw an 8pc kit on their website.

Just for fun, why don't you try advancing your IP timing a little bit and see what that does.

I'll look up vids/tech write ups. If I advance it I'm assuming its just as easy to get it back?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If I advance it I'm assuming its just as easy to get it back?

Yes it is. Just mark the IP and the housing first so that you know how far you advanced it and where it was at before you advanced it. Changing the timing is very simple.

 

[quickster]

With the HF compression tester you have to cut the adapter that fits to length. No big deal. The 14 pc is the one I think.
Try what Bronco is saying too. All that costs is time.

 

[RSchanz]

Yes it is. Just mark the IP and the housing first so that you know how far you advanced it and where it was at before you advanced it. Changing the timing is very simple.

Reasonable instructions:

https://www.dieselhub.com/performance/idi-injection-pump.html

I'm honestly having a little bit of trouble finding good instructions on how to do this correctly.

 

[quickster]

That is for turning the fuel up. You don't want that now. You want to advance the timing. The pump is held tight with 3 nuts. Right behind the timing gear housing you'll look down and see the mounting flange on the back of the pump. There should be static timing marks chiseled in. Maybe, maybe not. Mark the pump where it sits right now. Loosen the left and right till slightly loose. They are lower on the pump. Now loosen the top nut a bit and turn the pump to the passenger side according to your mark about the width of a dime. Tighten the pump up and run to see how the smoke is. I'm not the best at splaining things, but you should get the idea.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

To advance the IP, just loosen the three nuts that hold it to the housing and then rotate the top toward the passenger's side. Loosen the lower two nuts first. Then, while holding the IP in place, loosen the top one. After you advance it slightly, tighten the top nut. Tighten the lower two before starting the engine.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That is for turning the fuel up. You don't want that now. You want to advance the timing. The pump is held tight with 3 nuts. Right behind the timing gear housing you'll look down and see the mounting flange on the back of the pump. There should be static timing marks chiseled in. Maybe, maybe not. Mark the pump where it sits right now. Loosen the left and right till slightly loose. They are lower on the pump. Now loosen the top nut a bit and turn the pump to the passenger side according to your mark about the width of a dime. Tighten the pump up and run to see how the smoke is. I'm not the best at splaining things, but you should get the idea.

So you beat me to it.

 

[quickster]

Not that often, as slow as I type.

 

[ih8minimumwage]

Advance your pump a bit and see if it clears up and you get some power gains. Had to do mine over the summer after having the same eye watering cloud when accelerating. I have a piece of square tubing with a couple of holes drilled through so it can be bolted to the pump as a handle.

 

[RSchanz]

Haha, good deal. Thanks to both of you. I'll try this tomorrow after work.

 

[RSchanz]

Advance your pump a bit and see if it clears up and you get some power gains. Had to do mine over the summer after having the same eye watering cloud when accelerating. I have a piece of square tubing with a couple of holes drilled through so it can be bolted to the pump as a handle.

Judging by the sounds of the process I'm guessing you have that so it's easier to be more precise?

 

[quickster]

On the top of the pump is a square nub protruding. Put a 3/4 inch wrench on it if you want to control it better. That's what it's there for.