ATS snail seals....and intercooler pics!

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
Spent a while today installing my Christmas present.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


I am really looking forward to running this and seeing how it helps. I had no problem hitting the waste gate before, and I am hoping the drop in pressure won't be too much.

Now the question. The ATS snail I have now. Any idea on the bolt size for it? Obviously, the banks bolt is too long. Also, am I right in thinking a q-jet carb gasket will seal this thing? The banks has that square o ring that I am not sure has ever sealed right even after replacing it with a new one.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
So is that a sidewinder kit with the intercooler and ats hat?
 

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
Yes that is exactly what is happening there.

Exact install as FORDF250HDXLT has done on his log truck. Really quite a simple install once you round up all the right parts.

I will post up what I have done soon. Although, you cod read page 4 of the "log truck" build thread and get it exactly as I have done.
 
Last edited:

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
wow that's a heck of an xmas present! does your wife have a sister! :D

prepare factory turbo/ats hat for intercooler pipe,the low restive way guys.got it figured out.

buy a 2 1/8 ID exhaust pipe to fit inside.i used a 2 1/8 id x 2 1/8 OD.
im running 2 1/4 pipe and my 2 1/4 coupler fits right over it very snugly.
using a 1/2" drill bit,i was able to very,very easily and quickly hone the inside of the hat out just a tad bit for the pipe to slide in using grease on the fitting,and gently tapping into the hat with a hammer.gently now.if still snug,ream it out a little more with the drill.it doesn't take much.i went for like 30 seconds.you don't want it so tight that you crack the housing.very careful.ditch that 0-ring,and be sure to ream out the second collar past where the o-ring sits.you want the pipe to slide in past that groove so there is no unnecessary air turbulence.
be sure to wash it all out now.you don't want those metal shavings going down the intake!

now just seal it up using some high temp muffler dope around the outer rim.i still need to do this now.she's so snug im not sure if it would ever leak,but im gunna make sure.this can be a permanent connection.
of course it "should" be cool air coming in here from the cooler,but it's not like the high temp sealer cost an arm and a leg compared to something else.
the reducer and exhaust dope was just found at the local autozone.cost was around 10 bucks.

now notice,you have much more streamlined airflow into the hat than if you just put a boot on the outside.
the other advantage,no taper! no hassle with blowing off the boot!
much better solution all the way around.

additionally you'll need 3 more parts if you have a banks turbo like i do,or if your in need for your current ats hat:

1.a shorter bolt than the center pressure chamber bolt of the banks turbo (which is 4" long)
grade 8 flange bolt. 3/8"–16 x 2 1/2"

2. a 3/8 copper crush washer came to seal the chamber bolt from ats.
i recommend using a 3/8" aluminum Stat-O-Seal instead.

3.a lower pressure chamber gasket.Fel-Pro #60038 (use black rtv on both sides) OR Victor Reinz #G27098 (use black rtv on both sides) OR custom ordered to those gasket specs a reusable square cut o-ring.

note; the "Stat-O-Seal" comes with the banks.slide it off the 4" bolt and slide it onto your 2.5" ;Sweet
Russ can hook you up with a square cut o-ring too.


tips;
you can now max out your fuel screw.
you can now bump your timing back (if you want) 1/2 degree or so - she'll compensate for the slight lag and be instant again.
you can "tweak" your wastegate if you want.
iv got chip pushing 14 psi peaks.:)
(log truck was a copy of chip truck.)
 
Last edited:

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
Sweet! Just overlooked that in your thread.

That seal....is long gone on my truck. Using a nylon washer for now. Seemed to hold so far. It seeps a little as there is a little oil residue there, but it's better than nothing!

Thanks again for your thorough write up that made this such an easy endeavor!
 

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
yeah no problem.you didn't overlook that quote.that wasn't in log truck thread.it was in "lets talk intercoolers" thread from when i installed it first before buying log truck.so no wonder you missed that that bit.no biggie.
yeah.it's super silly easy to follow with the parts and info right! it wasn't too bad figuring it out first,but having the info to copy to log truck was like a breeze.glad you found it to be the same.thats what it's posted for.awesome brother.;Sweet
 

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
Took it out for a run today. Turbo has quite a bit more lag. More than I like. If I am careful, I can make sure I don't blow too much smoke. Noticed that there is quite a bit of pressure drop across the intercooler as well. I used to average 4 to 5 PSI at 60 mph, but now there is barely 1 to 2. Hard to tell how much smoke there is at that speed.

I noticed my waste gate was opening at 6 psi too. Was always 10 or 11 before. So, I unhooked it.....

I can get 10 to 11 psi if I am really in it now. I really have to lay the fuel to it to get any pressure. My cruising EGT is not really any lower either, but with very little boost, I didn't expect it to be.

I have checked all the connections, and they seem to be tight. I don't think I have any boost leaks, but I am still suspicious of the snail to intake seal. Looks like there is some oil there.

I did take it on a good hard run once, stop and opened the hood and checked to temp of the charge pipes. The hot side was almost too hot to touch and the cold side was quite cold, so at least that is working for me!

I can't wait to hook up some weight and see what the results are. I think it will be where this intercooler will really shine.


I also had to remove my windstar electric fans. The bracket on the radiator that they bolted to had to be removed....the pipes needed the clearance. I think they never moved enough air to keep this truck cool in the summer anyway. Looking for a set of fans with a LOT more CFM.
 
Last edited:

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
keep checking and snugging up the boot clamps.sounds like you've got boost leaks for sure still.
 

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
We have nearly identical setups. Same size pipes and intercooler. Same turbo, etc... What PSI are you seeing?

Might help me to judge what is going on.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
6,456
Reaction score
1,127
Location
Maine & Oklahoma
chip is 14 psi with wg adjustment log truck isn't altered at 9.5-10 psi peaks.at first when i intercooled chip truck,i was concerned with the lag too but i had boost leaks.i didn't have my clamps snug enough was my only issue.when it's right,you wont have any lag to speak of so don't worry.

what did you end up using for a seal around your pressure chamber bolt? see if you can find one of these locally......well crap.nothing will be open tomorrow though right.well;
http://www.amazon.com/Earls-178006E...845&sr=8-1&keywords=3/8"+aluminum+Stat-O-Seal



Using a nylon washer for now. Seemed to hold so far. It seeps a little as there is a little oil residue there, but it's better than nothing!
edit oh i see.no this wont work.this is probably your issue.you don't have any crush washers around? what happened to your Stat-O-Seal from the banks bolt?
 
Last edited:

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
This banks kit was on an engine I pulled from the boneyard. It did not have a washer at all when I removed it. Found a nylon washer that worked before, but I could tell it was leaking.

I found a seal at Home Depot that looks just like that stat-o-seal and installed that with the bolt today. I am fairly confident the bolt is sealed....not confident at all that the gasket/o-ring is sealed.

The more I think about it, I bet this is the problem. Left the banks o-ring on there for now, but I am going to get a fel-pro gasket you list up there in that post and seal it for good. And tighten the clamps again.

Thanks for the help!
 

79jasper

Chickenhawk
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Posts
17,367
Reaction score
1,930
Location
Collinsville, Oklahoma
Was the intercooler brand new?
I'd be interested in seeing pre and post intercooler boost readings.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
 

cpdenton

Truck needs paint.
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Posts
1,810
Reaction score
76
Location
Conway AR
Yes. Brand new cxracing ic-0022. Pretty nice unit too. I like it.

Think I found my boost leak! Pretty obvious when I pulled the intake snail and looked at it.

New proper gasket and permatex ultra black is installed now. Can't imagine it won't be better.


You must be registered for see images attach


That wasn't sealing a thing!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,352
Posts
1,130,888
Members
24,152
Latest member
BrannonB

Members online

Top