ATS Exhaust Upgrade Kit

[1dieselman]

If you have a older turbo setup, I guess when they first started using the 3" downpipe there was a difference in housings. As I said after installing an updated housing my problems went away. It used to surge at higher rpms and when I called about it the ATS rep wanted the numbers off my turbo. Maybe pre 7.3 they used a smaller housing.

 

[zpd307]

after seeing the factory downpipe when it came, i can see why it is a major restriction! but seeing the comparison photos of the factory 2.5 outlet compared to the upgraded 3 incher, even the factory is a restriction, hence the lots of backpressure which will keep the egts higher. i would hate to cram the turbo in there and have to do it over again just to put in the better elbow.

 

[typ4]

hey i heard ya russ. i am going to attempt a dp when i put my turbo on, i can weld well enough, but is it something a novice should tackle or is it best left to the pros?

If you can make a good weld you can do it.

I suppose the elbow is just a matter of how much money a person wants to spend.
I am out of work so I am biased for low dollar improvements.

 

[zpd307]

yes it would be better than nothing.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I know this is a 2 year old thread, and I am just trolling......but can the factory 2.25" reduction be cut off, and a new 3" flange welded onto the old one? This is a low buck fix, but if I can save $$ whynot?

 

[1dieselman]

I'm just guessing here but I take it that that you are talking about cutting into the cast iron elbow. If so my opinion is that gains received would not be significant enough to outweigh the amount of work needed to do the modification. Cast iron can be tricky to weld. You would be much better off to find a ATS elbow.

 

[icanfixall]

Are we sure this is actually a cast iron and not a cast steel elbow... Cast steel can be welded easy... Cast iron not so easy....

 

[jam0o0]

even cast iron isn't hard to weld if you know how to do it. get ni99 rod. it's high in nickle content. it keeps the weld from cracking off of the cast iron as it cools. warning though it is costly.
procedure:
1 preheat cast iron
2 weld with ni99 or other high nickle content rod
3 cover part to slow cooling

4 optional: peen weld

 

[Blind Driver2]

When you get the exhaust made, remember that a 3" exhaust with a single bend that's not made with a double mandrel is only about 2.5 inches.

When I'm ready for a new exhaust, I'm making my own and probably using pieces from Summit. Unless I can find a high class muffler shop.

I'll never have kink pipe on any of my vehicles ever again. I'd rather run flex pipe.