'87 project- next round.

[quickster]

I appreciate the response Wes. I don't trust myself to adjust the pump while it's running, so no worries there. I just want to try what I can before paying for a pump. The pump on the '87 has to be the original. The top cover is still wired down with an old seal. If there is something easy to check out and adjust, I'll give it a shot. If not, I'll have to get a pump.
I'm not in a rush.

The truck needs- Heads re torqued. Seen some bubbling of coolant on the edge of driver side head.
Glow plugs
Fuel gauge stuck on full for both tanks.
2 batteries
New drivers side floor pan- support under hockey puck.
Brakes.
Trans pan gasket
shift arm seal
And that's just what from what I could see. Didn't drive it yet.
I was under the truck while running and there was some smoke coming from between the trans and motor. Coming up near the starter. Maybe a leak??
The throttle cable seems long or stretched. the pedal is just about on the floor.
Now if I only had more time and money...

 

[riphip]

Ford F1TZ-9A758-F - CABLE ASY - THROTTLE is your part number for the throttle cable.
Use Motorcraft Only. Check Amazon, Google, etc. Should be around $70.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The other thing is I would absolutely never recommend adjusting timing while running the engine, very easy way to make a paper weight out of the pump. Running the pump without the flange bolts tight puts all the thrust load on the input shaft, which on a stock pump is only counteracted by a very weak wave washer, which is the only think keeping the transfer blades from pushing into the housing and sending metal through the pump and injectors. Just take the time to shut the truck off and make small adjustments until the timing is where you want it to be.

Also, I believe that Ford (and probably International) said to never move the pump while the engine's running. I've seen one pump (life time guarantee from Ford) lock up while the engine was running. Despite all three nuts being tight, the pump moved as far as it could go to the driver's side (IIRC-which ever way it would move). If, for some reason, that would happen while you were trying to adjust the timing, you could get hurt pretty badly.

 

[quickster]

One thing that I just thought about that I don't remember seeing before. This truck has cruise control. I don't remember seeing a c6 with cruise.
I won't be adjusting anything while it's running.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's been too long for me to remember, but I'd bet that I've seen at least one.

 

[Cubey]

One thing that I just thought about that I don't remember seeing before. This truck has cruise control. I don't remember seeing a c6 with cruise.

Both my 85 E350 and 87 F250 have C6+cruise.

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[quickster]

thanks!

 

[Leroy]

The large nut riding the governor rod is what adjusts the BASE IDLE / FUEL METERING SET POINT.

Back out the external linkage base idle so that it is not making contact with the stop at run idle, then make your true base adjustment by the meter set point, but a hair, like 30-50 rpms low, now use that external idle stop to make that last tiny adjustment up a few rpms.

This gives less external travel adjustment but it's unused anyway because you set it already internally manually.

done this way the throttle begins fueling faster for strong response, throughout the throttle range, delivering slight more fuel at appropriate times rather than just max fueling screw. I leave the max fuel screw alone, but I have non turbo.

stock it's got a tonne of slack, this helps a lot, then set DROOP with the overall Gov rod nut on the back of the IP.

Change to one affects the other, so it can take an hour or more to get it perfectly dialed in, if that's what your after.

 

[Thewespaul]

Backing out the external idle screw is literally what I just explained not to do. Understanding what adjustment points do is fine and dandy, and I’m all for everyone tearing into the stock pumps to get more performance without dropping coin on an aftermarket pump, but you need to also understand why things are set where there are before you go changing them, people depend on their trucks and not everyone has the time and money to replace broken parts in the name of science.

 

[Thewespaul]

I appreciate the response Wes. I don't trust myself to adjust the pump while it's running, so no worries there. I just want to try what I can before paying for a pump. The pump on the '87 has to be the original. The top cover is still wired down with an old seal. If there is something easy to check out and adjust, I'll give it a shot. If not, I'll have to get a pump.
I'm not in a rush.

The truck needs- Heads re torqued. Seen some bubbling of coolant on the edge of driver side head.
Glow plugs
Fuel gauge stuck on full for both tanks.
2 batteries
New drivers side floor pan- support under hockey puck.
Brakes.
Trans pan gasket
shift arm seal
And that's just what from what I could see. Didn't drive it yet.
I was under the truck while running and there was some smoke coming from between the trans and motor. Coming up near the starter. Maybe a leak??
The throttle cable seems long or stretched. the pedal is just about on the floor.
Now if I only had more time and money...

I haven’t read the entire thread, are you having any issues with the pump? These db2s were never wired shut like that from the factory, Stanadyne uses a blue, red, or yellow glue to seal the hardware on pumps that will break apart if tampered with, so the pump cannot be original to the truck.

 

[quickster]

The truck has been sitting for years, and I got it running. It surges a little bit while idling, and when you give it throttle, it doesn't respond till the arm is pulled three quarters of the way back. Then when I let the throttle go, it dies. There is hardly any pedal, and when it gets to the floor the motor is racing. It would be impossible to drive, but I'm not planning on it yet.
The IP has the top cap wired with a seal; there is a metal tab with the letter E stamped on it. The seal is in the middle of the twisted wire. Figured maybe it's original- I don't know. You can see it in the pic.

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